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Thread: Brake issues

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    96
    Quote Originally Posted by trackadda View Post
    has any one had issues with the nps isuzu doing the same?
    I have the 2010 NPS with 19.5 wheels, 285/70 tyres and camper body. I've locked the rear tyres when a little Chinese lady stopped unexpectedly in a little Chinese car and I rearranged her boot bit a little. I've locked the rears on a wet Austrian road and gave my passenger (and me) a good fright as the back end started to come round to the front but never locked all 4 on sealed road - I think they would.

    The braking effect is definetely less in reverse but I haven't stalled it yet on a good steep hill to see if we have the same issue but I suspect yes. The Isuzu did have larger front drums then the FG84 at the time IIRC and my wheels/tyres aren't as large so some benefit there.
    Last edited by Mr Rehab; 10-04-2017 at 10:35 PM.
    2010 Isuzu NPS with ATW Scout body

    www.beetrax.com

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    450
    Ok, finally got round to doing all the brakes on mine, and replacing the shoes with the alleged upgraded ones. Which I might add, if you've not done them before, is quite a job. The drums both front and rear are behind the hubs so everything outward of the hub has to come off... inc the freewheel hubs at the front. And don't forget to first remove the circlip on the end of the axle shaft inside the freewheel hub like I did.. haha yea.....

    I did do a couple timed stops beforehand, so I would have a decent before and after. Ended up doing it from 70-72 (whatever 60 on the dash is, I'll try gps it soon) to 0. Average of 3 stops is 7.2s. Yes I'm aware how atrocious that is. Also interesting was that after a couple stops then arriving back at home, the front drums are way too hot to touch, probably 100+ deg, while the rears are just slightly warm- maybe 20-30deg.

    After doing just the fronts the stop time came down to 5.9. My mechanic buddy says they'll probably take a few good stops to 'bed in' to the drums, but we'll see.

    After doing the rears the time came down to 5.3, but the pedal was going basically to the floor on first pump, I have a feeling that I didn't adjust the rear shoes out enough and possibly it's now taking 2 pumps to push them all the way out. Seems unlikely that it would all of a sudden need bleeding when it was fine 4 days ago, but then stranger things have happened. Hopefully I'll get to that today. Again, front drums hot hot, rears barely warm.
    I'll try get rid of the proportioning valve and see how it goes then. Maybe a manual bias valve might be the go.

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Utah!
    Posts
    639

    Default Brakes

    Quote Originally Posted by Amesz00 View Post
    Ok, finally got round to doing all the brakes on mine, and replacing the shoes with the alleged upgraded ones. Which I might add, if you've not done them before, is quite a job. The drums both front and rear are behind the hubs so everything outward of the hub has to come off... inc the freewheel hubs at the front. And don't forget to first remove the circlip on the end of the axle shaft inside the freewheel hub like I did.. haha yea.....

    I did do a couple timed stops beforehand, so I would have a decent before and after. Ended up doing it from 70-72 (whatever 60 on the dash is, I'll try gps it soon) to 0. Average of 3 stops is 7.2s. Yes I'm aware how atrocious that is. Also interesting was that after a couple stops then arriving back at home, the front drums are way too hot to touch, probably 100+ deg, while the rears are just slightly warm- maybe 20-30deg.

    After doing just the fronts the stop time came down to 5.9. My mechanic buddy says they'll probably take a few good stops to 'bed in' to the drums, but we'll see.

    After doing the rears the time came down to 5.3, but the pedal was going basically to the floor on first pump, I have a feeling that I didn't adjust the rear shoes out enough and possibly it's now taking 2 pumps to push them all the way out. Seems unlikely that it would all of a sudden need bleeding when it was fine 4 days ago, but then stranger things have happened. Hopefully I'll get to that today. Again, front drums hot hot, rears barely warm.
    I'll try get rid of the proportioning valve and see how it goes then. Maybe a manual bias valve might be the go.
    A bit late now, but it is best not to work the brakes too hard for a few hundred kilometers so they can break in. Otherwise you end up glazing the shoes and they will never work right. I would be very interested in a product description of the new shoes as I am in need of some.

    Thanks!

    Allan
    Allan, Sakshi, and FIDO-our trusty 2000 Fuso Poptop Camper
    Build Thread: http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...in-Head-First!

  4. #54
    so the 2wd comes with disc but the 4wd comes with drum... has anyone looked into swapping the 2wd disc's over? or is not worth the effort? seems like an axle swap (with discs) would almost be a requirement if it's common place for them to not hold the vehicle on a hill, especially from rolling backwards.

    sorry, I don't have a canter, and probably won't for a few years, but I'm in the research phase of building myself a truly go anywhere self contained multi country vehicle.

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