Anyone out there running an Aluminum Contractor Topper?

jtcym1149

Member
I have one. It doesn't seal the greatest on the back tailgate and I broke the aluminium roof rack driving with a 33" tire u-bolted to it. I had to through bolt it to the truck bed because it wanted to flex outwards at the base. Overall I really like it. I think an external tube roof rack would be the way to go with these. Also take into consideration that mine was used 10 years by a contractor before it came into my possession for $300 off craigslist.
 

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toyotech

Expedition Leader
Can always get one with barn doors to ditch the tail gate.
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xjman88

Adventurer
Here's mine mounted on my 92 Dakota. I built a good sturdy sleeping platform and also have overhead storage for lighter items.IMG_2577.jpg20170423_182841.jpg20170409_180047.jpg20160525_164216.jpg20160730_165222.jpg It's an ARE High rise contractors cap. Love the extra room it provides.
 

Bravo1782

Adventurer
A lot of great feedback! Thanks for all the responses and pictures! Right now, I'm definitely leaning towards going with an aluminum topper. I love the full-length, full opening doors, and I feel like it could be a great topper. The only things I'm "worried" about is the tough-ness of a roof rack. I want something strong and overengineered; I don't know if I'd be better modifying a standard, welded ladder rack, or getting something like the leer that can have Thule tracks and bars on it. I'd love to be able to run a RTT from it, if possible.
 

DLTooley

Observer
I built up a rack around the simple aluminum rack integrated with a thin sheet of plywood over the roof. I used ripped 2x4s to build a box type rack.
 

DLTooley

Observer
Daylight now with picture. From the bottom: plywood, 2x4 under rack, spacer, cargo box from ripped 2x4s. All fastened at multiple points The angle iron was an early attempt to make a gutter rack mount point and was a fail. I originally painted with some extra kilt, 7 years ago. It is solid as a rock and the aluminum roof is protected from cargo punctures. IMG_0331.jpg
 

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Bravo1782

Adventurer
Only stupid if it doesn't work! A buddy I go on adventures with runs a setup like that...he's got bars on his topper and he built a roof rack out of 2x4's for the small odds and ends he needs to put up there.

I'm still leaning towards the aluminum topper, but I'm just curious what sort of loads I can carry on the roof. I can find exactly no official information. @Hummelator is the only guy I've found that's really pushed his aluminum topper. Intuitively, I feel like if I get the topper with the welded ladder rack, it'll be incorporated into the frame of the topper, making it alltogether stronger. Then, I can either use it for bigger stuff (RTT) OR build a rack that'll suit my needs.

Really, the only things I would want to put up there would be maybe kayaks\canoes, an awning, my escaper buddies (max-trax knock-offs), and maybe my hi-lift. I've been running my RTT on a trailer and I really like that setup. I would like to have the flexibility to install my RTT on my topper, but it really isn't essential.

Opinions?
 

calicamper

Expedition Leader
Couple of friends were discussing this not long ago. Seemed they all agreed the plastic caps especially the new ones really lack structural points to support more than a surf board or light ladder. The alum toppers all seem to have racks that target placing loading on the sides where they have better structural stiffness.

I think from a manufacturing aspect Alum is far far easier to build with regarding enviro regs and product consistency. I bet most plastic caps are imported from China or other countries with lax / low cost enviro regs impacting the manufacturing cost.

The contractor caps seem the way to these days.
 

toyotech

Expedition Leader
That's.....a really nice picture! So picturesque. So maybe a standard ladder rack is the way to go....

The standard ladder rack is just metal screwed to the internal frame from the outside in. The internal frame is plenty strong and I just bolted my roof rack directly to the internal frame. Although I haven't ran anything heavy in it. I know it's plenty strong.


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southpier

Expedition Leader
my first truck cap was aluminum (circa 1973). I had 1/4" varnished plywood screwed to the inner frame (walls & ceiling) which might have added some shear strength? and an opening RV skylight. did everything I needed but honestly don't ever remember if it had a rack or not, those days are cloaked in a heavy cloud of smoke ...

I would consider adding a bit of sound dampening (such as dynamat) before doing any interior work.
 

Bravo1782

Adventurer
@Calicamper, it's an interesting conversation topic for sure! Intitively, something that has a welded aluminum frame with a protective skin over it seems like it would be more "structural" than fiberglass. I get that there's all sorts of reinforcement in the fiberglass that makes it stronger, but if the fiberglass cracks, it's all over. If the aluminum skeleton is damaged, if you have a TIG welder, or a MIG with a spool gun, or some rivets, you could patch, fix, and reinforce. Plus, contractor toppers seem to hold up to serious, serious abuse. Ever see a contractor be nice to his truck? It's just part of the job!

Plus, I feel like I could add\modify the topper to my needs more easily. Simple little things like adding a fishing rod rack to the roof would be SO much easier.

As far as the rack, I've been trying to get in touch with Leer; it seems they have bolt plate reinforcement on their non-welded ladder rack options. I'd rather get a track based, more standard roof rack, that I could even add a third crossbar to in order to spread out the weight more evenly. Three crossbars on a aluminum-frame topper should be able to hold ANYTHING that I'd reasonably want to put up there.
 

DLTooley

Observer
A thin sheet of plywood across the roof will support a substantial load. I think I used 3/8. I needed just a little bit of flex for my specs.
 

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