Anyone out there running an Aluminum Contractor Topper?

Bravo1782

Adventurer
I looked at those guys...you're right, indestructible I'm sure, but holy cow are they expensive.

Right now, I'm looking into the ARE Diamond Plate edition. I really don't like the look of diamond plate, but it's .065 aluminum treadplate...the heaviest contractor topper I've seen is 0.040...most treadplate toolboxes are something like .055 depending on the manufacturer. I could always brush the aluminum to cut down on the shine or paint it...but it would be able to handle a ton of abuse without being super heavy. I just need to get the rack figured out on it. PLUS, you can get it with the windoor and tailgate locks tied into the factory lock\unlock system like I have on my tailgate. PLUS 3rd light backup camera is an option (which I really like!). I'm going to talk to my local ARE guy and see what kinda price they come in at. I feel like that would be a really hardcore topper without being super heavy.
 

WEK207

New member
Don't know if it's been mentioned but Tradesman Truck Tops made by Access Manufacturing has some pretty interesting options on their gallery pages. Probably not cheap but the custom touches they offer may be worth it. I have no personal experience but I'm keeping them in consideration for updating my topper.
 

Meili

Adventurer
I got an old Leer with a big hole cut in the top and it is plenty strong. All about the bracing!

These are before pics,in process of finishing swapping it on to a utility bed.
 

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Bravo1782

Adventurer
That's a pretty awesome setup! I really like that @Meili! Any pictures of the internal bracing?

Edit: Also, how is your RTT Attached? I'll be running RTT on my truck too...
 
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rickc

Adventurer
Bravo1782: I just picked up my ARE CX HD top a couple of weeks ago. It's got an internal aluminum frame that connects directly to two HD cross bars capable of supporting 550lbs on the go; none of the accessory weight touches the cap itself. Not cheap; about CAN$4k but cheaper than ally or steel. The ally frame has T slots which is very convenient for my plans to run internal wiring, lighting and build a tool box accessible from the left, lifting panel. My rationale was a big roof top tent; loads of pics of RTTs on canopies but I called many of the canopy suppliers and got the same response; "yes, people do this but we don't sell or rate these RTTs". Not what I wanted to hear. I got the impression that most glass caps are good for around 200lb on the go; a little more static and that's about it.
 

dman93

Adventurer
Don't know if it's been mentioned but Tradesman Truck Tops made by Access Manufacturing has some pretty interesting options on their gallery pages. Probably not cheap but the custom touches they offer may be worth it. I have no personal experience but I'm keeping them in consideration for updating my topper.
I considered buying a used Taco with a Tradesman top; the owner loved it and it looked pretty rugged to me. Enough that I stopped by the factory when I was in the area, to look at options for the truck I did buy. I had a good talk with the owner of Access Mfg who was very welcoming and gave me a full factory tour. It's a small outfit, and there's a lot of hand work in the fabrication. Don't expect highly polished fit and finish, but the function and durability seem good. They build toppers for police and fire agencies who probably expect good performance. There's been other Happy owners here at ExPo and on Tacoma World.
 

bjp

Rez roamer, dog wrangler
I've had an ARE DCU for a few years now. I've got minor complaints, but nothing major. I currently have a Yakima basket and rocket box on top of mine. Adding anything to the factory ladder rack calls for a little rigging. Hopefully, the pictures let you see well enough. I used hose clamps to attach the basket, and had to drill and improvise for the rocket box. I plugged the unused factory holes with caulking, covered on the inside by caulked yoga mat scraps. Both the basket and the box are secure and sturdy. I sometimes have to climb up on top of the shell, and while I know that ladder rack and shell frame is strong, it doesn't do so well with concentrated loads (like, me on one foot). Sway and flex are a little scary at those brief moments.

Overall, I am very very happy with this shell. It is very roomy in the configuration I got, with the vertical sides. I think ARE calls that the "radius" configuration, I assume because the front facing side (against the cab) is curved. They're not inexpensive, but reasonable when you compare what you get here v. a fiberglass shell. Mine was right at $2600 when I got it maybe 3 years ago.

https://imgur.com/gallery/N49Dm
 

DLTooley

Observer
I just painted my beater aluminum canopy with bedliner, matching the truck which I did at the same time.|

Two tone ALS, black and tan. I did it with roller and brush and a fair amount of prep. Look's good now.
 

Regcabguy

Oil eater.
I had a cab high Gemtop on my '85 Toyota extracab. I got it for $557+ install back then with the rubber gasket pass through.
The truck was $8500. Times have changed.
 

Hamishmartin47

New member
my first truck cap was aluminum (circa 1973). I had 1/4" varnished plywood screwed to the inner frame (walls & ceiling) which might have added some shear strength? and an opening RV skylight. did everything I needed but honestly don't ever remember if it had a rack or not, those days are cloaked in a heavy cloud of smoke ...

I would consider adding a bit of sound dampening (such as dynamat) before doing any interior work.

I have one on order, to arrive next week! I ordered a bunch of sound deadening product for it.... sure it'll be as heavy as a fiberglass unit when I'm done with it...ha.. Question is, would you first put the sound deadening and then the insulation?, and then carpet or ply or whatever to cover it? Will try and get away without cutting an RV vent in if i dont have to... kindof think the ventilation from the windows being open will be adequate?
If anyone has any info on any of this, help would be greatly appreciated!!
 

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