2007 LR3 - my 10 yr build thread...

Silly question that may have already been addressed: why switch to V6 brakes?

It's allows the LR3 to fit a 17" wheel for better tire options. Allows for more available tire options and taller sidewall. 17" tires are also generally much cheaper and more available on the shelf.

Eurospec Disco 3's came with 17" wheels on the TDv6; what years I'm not sure but I am in the same process on my rig.

Here's a pic of a Eurospec Disco 3. I have the same factory LR wheels for my set up. Not sure what JWestpro will be running for 17" wheels though.

This can only be done on the 3 if I am not mistaken. The LR4 has a different set up and the smallest wheel to fit on a 4 is an 18".

Hope this helps answer your question.

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Jwestpro

Explorer
Mine have a better proportioned narrow winter tire . The 17" factory here is also 1" skinnier at 7" compared to the 18x8. This allows for the tall 245/75-17 studded E load Nokian but would also be perfect for the 255/80-18 BFG KM2 that I test fitted.

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Jwestpro

Explorer
I should drop the tank on mine and have a good sniff around...

Next I get to replace the rear axle boots. Sure wish I'd noticed it needed them while all that was apart but it looks so fresh that I wonder if I caused it during moving the axle back n forth and around.
 

zelatore

Explorer
Yeah....I've had some fun in that department this year. First I noticed I'd torn the front boot on a nearly new driveshaft. Grrr..... I just threw another in but the old shaft is sitting in the shop with the intent that one day I'll figure a way to replace just the boot.

Then I noticed the rear diff has developed a small leak at the passenger side shaft seal. Likely something I caused when messing with that shaft last year. I've got a whole ton of maintenance items sitting on the shelf ready to go when I get around to it. Full pads and rotors. E-brake service. Rear wheel bearings. axles seals. Replace windshield and roof glass. Move VHF antenna. Probably more I can't think of.
 
Yeah....I've had some fun in that department this year. First I noticed I'd torn the front boot on a nearly new driveshaft. Grrr..... I just threw another in but the old shaft is sitting in the shop with the intent that one day I'll figure a way to replace just the boot.

Then I noticed the rear diff has developed a small leak at the passenger side shaft seal. Likely something I caused when messing with that shaft last year. I've got a whole ton of maintenance items sitting on the shelf ready to go when I get around to it. Full pads and rotors. E-brake service. Rear wheel bearings. axles seals. Replace windshield and roof glass. Move VHF antenna. Probably more I can't think of.

Are the Differential Axle output seals easy to get to with the axles out? Are they worth doing since I'll be doing CV boots anyway and have the axles out?
 

zelatore

Explorer
Are the Differential Axle output seals easy to get to with the axles out? Are they worth doing since I'll be doing CV boots anyway and have the axles out?

I haven't actually done them yet, so..... ???

Actually, i don't think it will be too bad. Pulling the axles isn't terrible and I have other work to do at the rear anyway. Access doesn't look bad. I suppose I'll find out, but it may be a while before I get to it as I have a full plate at the moment.
 

Jwestpro

Explorer
I haven't actually done them yet, so..... ???

Actually, i don't think it will be too bad. Pulling the axles isn't terrible and I have other work to do at the rear anyway. Access doesn't look bad. I suppose I'll find out, but it may be a while before I get to it as I have a full plate at the moment.

So are you two talking about the conical boot at the end of the half shaft near the diff? The axles each side have two boots, one at the hub end and the other near the diff which also passes through the frame. This is where mine has cracked and is spewing grease in a ring around it within the round tunnel through the frame.

My question is: the boot or seal you two are referring to, is that different as in some other differential deal, or same as what I'm replacing? Mine is going to be fairly easy: remove wheel, UCA bolt from upper hub knuckle (this is the rear camber bolt), undo near end of the toe link from knuckle, axle nut.

The rear nut is 32mm on mine but front was different clamping design (not tap into slot but just pressure from 4 flanges)and 36mm.
I used a 3/4 air impact to get the nuts back to super tight spec. My compact 1/2" with only 560 lb-ft couldn't quite do it.

The boots look pretty simple and I get to buy s new tool ;) the proper large gasket strap crimper doo-dadd unless my Knipex will do the trick.
 

zelatore

Explorer
No, not the boots. Although I do have a driveshaft with a torn boot I'd like to attempt to replace at some point to have as a spare.

I'm talking about the actual oil seal where the halfshaft pokes into the diff. I've had the halfshaft in/out a few times without replacing that seal and I must have damaged it. Or maybe it's just worn out and starting to leak on it's own after almost 140K miles.

Remove the halfshaft, then pry out the seal on the diff, then drive the new one it. Shouldn't be too bad.

And my 1/2" Milwaukee impact has yet to meet a nut it couldn't crack. :) It's done all 4 CV nuts on this truck more than once.
(my 3/8" on the other hand is easily defeated)
 

Jwestpro

Explorer
Added dust boots to front struts. Why didn't these come on a new lr3/4? It's a genuine part!

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Unacceptable BS from dealer tech who first didn't ask me if I had hardware, knew the belly plates mount here, and didn't even think to notice he was putting the bolts in rotated wrong by 180?! I had to loosen, rotate, guess alignment, then install belly plate. Now I also have to go insist on fresh front alignment. Photo shows obvious correct position which also fully utilizes the raised shoulders for washer to push against. I sorta can't belice this crap.

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A bolt and nut use the hole below it in the tab. With control arm bushing bolt washer down, there no room for the nut.
 

Jwestpro

Explorer
17's on w E load range Nokians 245/75-17 about 31.5” andnow fit great on the new 17” spec sized rotors. (EBC slotted and green pads)

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You might ask why ...

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