DIY Fridge Slide and Storage Questions.

lazybummm

New member
I am currently working on my storage cabinet building plans. My inspirations were from the Thrifta Drawers found here:http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...er-Style-Build-(Toyota-Prado-120-Lexus-GX470)

This is all going into a 2004 GX470. My goals for the build are:

1) 2 x storage drawers on left side, fridge slide on right
2) Building a sleeping platform above cabinets and 2nd row back seat

I have a number of questions and could really use some help.

For the first goal, I’ve looked at a number of DIY fridge slide builds, I see that they’re all completely open, my first question is: Can I enclose the fridge like pictured?

The top, left, right and rear are all enclosed, the front is open. Is there not enough ventilation if it’s enclosed? If that’s the case, I might be able to add some computer case fans to keep the airflow going?

For the 2nd goal:

I want to build a platform where during the day or while driving it can sit on top of the storage cabinets. Then the top portion can be moved forward at night so the shelf sits on top of the 2nd row seats. I drew a couple pictures of what I’d like to do, I’m not an engineer, but is there a bracket hinge or anything that might be able to accomplish this?

I know the picture I drew is terrible but I hope it gets the message across. If you have any other ideas of moving that top shelf to the back, please let me know.

Lastly, I was thinking about using ¾” plywood is that too much? I saw most people build theirs with ½” plywood. I want to make sure that the heavy duty slides when mounted on plywood will be strong enough. Otherwise, I might use some steel angles for the slides as some others have done for their fridge slides.


Thanks in advance!Cabinets Mockup Dimensions.jpg20170516_192845.jpg
 
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rayra

Expedition Leader
3/4 in the vertical pieces is added weight and expense for nothing. 1/2" is more than enough. Wood is very strong in compression and less so in span. So use 3/4 on the top decks or weight-bearing shelves and 1/2" on the vertical and even the bottoms.
Build a whole system out of 3/4 and you've added a lot of weight for nothing.
 

JCDriller

Adventurer
I'm no carpenter but I always feel better working with 3/4" ply because in my mind it holds screws better and just give me a better margin of error. With that in mind I skeletonized my carcass to reduce weight where I could, something to think about.

 

PirateMcGee

Expedition Leader
I don't understand why everyone adds a bottom panel......

Especially when using side mount slides.

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lazybummm

New member
I don't understand why everyone adds a bottom panel......

Especially when using side mount slides.


Yeah the bottom panel is mostly for rigidity. I suppose if I use an angle at the bottom of the vertical panels and bolt it down to the car, it would even be more rigid..but won't be as easy to remove. The car has 4 existing points can bolt the cabinet set to with the bottom panel, however, without the bottom panel removing the cabinets to haul stuff will be more cumbersome.
 

PirateMcGee

Expedition Leader
It needs to be bolted down or you run the risk of 1 it rattling all the time or 2 it becoming a projectile in case of an accident.

Plus this will be heavy enough you aren't going to want to take it in and out. Time for a small trailer for hauling home depot runs!
 

MattL

Adventurer
So I have a similar setup as you're thinking. Here's a picture and a few thoughts from what I've learned with multiple iterations of rear storage platforms.

DSC4660_copy.jpg


Enclosing a fridge is fine as long as you leave room for it to vent/cut holes for venting. I can store a 63qt ARB in the cubby hole with room all around and vents in the rear.

I used 3/4" because my carpentry skills are not quite up to snuff that I can afford to use thinner material. Better skills and tools? Yeah I'd use 1/2" for the sides.

I used a floor because my past experiences were that my rear storage would slide around and didn't feel sturdy off-road. I was able to drill into the base and into the 3rd row seat holes meaning the unit is going nowhere in the event of an accident. I'm not a fan of turnbuckle mounting options in the FJ80 as they take up needed storage on the sides. Additionally, boxing everything in allows me to sleep on the driver side with the 2nd row seat folded.

I used side panels and enclosed the areas so that gear would be separated from banging around and the additional shelving allows me to store smaller items and retrieve them quickly.

Good luck!
 

JCDriller

Adventurer
If you're using turnbuckles to secure the drawer and you have no bottom the sides would spread outward as the turnbuckle is tightened. Also I needed a bottom to suit my pull out table.



Also, This is the fridge cover and slide I made when I had my JKU. It was tight, and even when in the desert fully loaded like seen here I had no problems with the fridge cooling. I did have the vent holes cut in the side.




 
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