Looking for advice on where to put switches

bobholthaus

Observer
I took a Thule light duty 1700 trailer and am converting it to a weekend-getaway "expedition build" with Tepui RTT. On the tongue, I have two water jugs, my battery between them, a Yeti 35 in front of that, and a 20 lb propane tank in front of that (I modeled my tongue exactly like the Adventure Trailers Tepui rents in CA:

https://www.tepuiadventurerentals.com/collections/frontpage/products/tepui-adventure-trailer

So, I have a switch for actuators for the tent, actuators for the plastic lid, LED lighting, and a master on/off; I may come up with more. But I don't know where/how to mount my switches. I could flush mount them into the tub of the trailer, but then I can't lock them in a way to keep young/prying fingers off of them. Without a locking tongue box (which I don't have room for unless I eliminate the cooler; I may start renting this trailer out; the cooler would surely fit in the tub), any ideas on where to install my switches and have them lockable? Btw, it's going to paint in a few weeks, and it's still a work in progress. Thanks.

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ratled

Adventurer
Inside the front left fender so the driver can get out and start lift to get things out of the way as you set up the trailer for the night

ratled
 

bobholthaus

Observer
I like these ideas. Locking Pelican case might be ideal! Thanks guys. (Still open for other ideas)


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bobholthaus

Observer
Let me ask you guys this: the Carling V switches I use are "waterproof". But I suspect that means that only the front are waterproof. I'm thinking about mounting all of the switches in the side of a pelican box on top of my battery box, but then have the master on/off switch inside the lockable box. So I'd have easy access to the switches without fiddling with the lid each time. And will only need to lock and unlock the box to hit the master. Will this work? I'm thinking a taller Pelican box and I'll side mount the switches on the driver's side of the box, using the Pelican case as a mini tongue box. I could put a charger in there as well, with shore line receptacle for charging the battery (I want to use solar, but don't have much real estate for the panel, unless I mount it to the lid of the cooler).


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Martyinco

Adventurer
Let me ask you guys this: the Carling V switches I use are "waterproof". But I suspect that means that only the front are waterproof. I'm thinking about mounting all of the switches in the side of a pelican box on top of my battery box, but then have the master on/off switch inside the lockable box. So I'd have easy access to the switches without fiddling with the lid each time. And will only need to lock and unlock the box to hit the master. Will this work? I'm thinking a taller Pelican box and I'll side mount the switches on the driver's side of the box, using the Pelican case as a mini tongue box. I could put a charger in there as well, with shore line receptacle for charging the battery (I want to use solar, but don't have much real estate for the panel, unless I mount it to the lid of the cooler).


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Yep that would work, the Pelicans are obviously waterproof and cutting holes in them negates this, but all I did was throw some silicone around my switches to retain some of that waterproof feature.
 

bobholthaus

Observer
Good points Verkstad. When camping for the weekend, I'll leave the main live, and you are correct, if a child can see a switch, it will likely get pushed (also learned only from watching my siblings push them... I would surely have never done that as a kid!) So it's probably best to conceal them all under the lid.

I know there are companies that make drop in plates for pelicans for this purpose. Anyone know the name of one off hand? I'll google it.

Thanks again guys.


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rodrage

Adventurer
Just a suggestion.... At least try to place your convenience switches somewhere accessible in the middle of the night or stuck in the mud. My primary power is sealed in a front box near the battery with a "Master" cut-off switch with the main fuse, the converter and power controller and leads for solar or shore power power. I'm mounting waterproof Carling switches to the outside of the box about 5 feet above ground, (mounted high enough to stay out of a heavy mud hole), but that we can still control it from the ground, and also reach it while in the roof top tent. I have a vestibule attached to the tent on the roof, that almost covers the drivers side of the trailer and the switch panel will be mounted on the side just near a zippered access panel, but also accessible if you're not in the tent and just standing outside the trailer. This gives quick access regardless of where people are. The last trailer I had, I wanted the outside lights or cargo lights on sometimes in the middle of the night, and I was nice to have them within arms reach. I also spent the extra few bucks to separate the circuits for each switch. All of the interior compartment (cargo) light to one switch, all exterior floods on one, awning lights on one, radios on one, water pump on one, fridge, etc., etc. I think it turned into 7 or 8 switches.
Good luck with the job.
 

Capercrew02

Observer
Personally, I would mount one of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H...SY340_QL65&keywords=rocker+switch+panel&psc=1 In a lockable case like a pelican, don't worry about a master cutoff switch. When your at camp, if the pelican is mounted properly, you could just have the door stay open (hinge on the bottom, so door lays horizontal) then if your leaving base camp, just close the case, lock if your really worried, but if it's out of sight, chances are most won't mess with it. I would run a case large enough to do additional electrical too (think solar controller, 120 to 12v charger, ect.) That way all your electrical is in one place, easily accessible, and that way all your wiring looms can be neat and clean.
 

bobholthaus

Observer
Caper: I just ordered one. Great idea. And I like the Pelican idea with the lid flipping down. Brilliant. I knew I was coming to the correct place when I posted this question.

By the way, Jim at OTRATTW just bought a CNC machine and he said within a couple of months he will be able to cut panels like this. So I'm sure he'll have a slew of options up sooner than later.

Thanks again!


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