Power Wagon common problems? Best years?
- Thread starter TFin04
- Start date
mikekey
Deplorable
I'd better see you guys at next years Power Wagons in Moab. https://www.facebook.com/pwinmoab/
Just saying.
And I just posted a ton of photos: http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...some-full-size-pictures?p=2305005#post2305005
The REAL REASON to get a POWER WAGON, is the SUSPENSION. Raptor's are one trick ponies. My suspension other than my 35's is 100% stock. From factory. The only other thing I have is armor. And I'm amazed at all the terrain a Power Wagon can tackle with ease.
If you want a truck that you can simply add sliders to, and go to Moab, get a Power Wagon. If you want to sink thousands of dollars into a truck, buy a Tundra or a Ford or something that will never be as good off pavement without huge investment.
Yes, coil rears are softer than the standard 2500 springs, which allow for greater articulation. This year in Moab we had a member with an AEV Power Wagon. AEV requires you to use the standard 2500 springs with their lift kit if you have a Power Wagon. His truck tripoded on many occasions and didn't have the articulation of those with the stock springs.
In basic pratice, if that payload is a real deal breaker, you could switch out the rear springs. I tow a 2007 Airstream International Signature, tongue weight of 960lbs. And last time I was over the cat scales, 6980lbs total trailer weight. I think the combined was somewhere north of 14k. I have no real problems with payload. Truck doesn't sag becuase I spent time dailing in my WD hitch.
There was another member at our event this year towing a 5th wheel with his. While the payload number might be low, the axle ratings are still the same. And the frame is the same. So, I don't want to personally overload my vehicle. But at the same time, I'm not as worried about it with this truck, as I would be if I had a 1500.
Just saying.
And I just posted a ton of photos: http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...some-full-size-pictures?p=2305005#post2305005
The REAL REASON to get a POWER WAGON, is the SUSPENSION. Raptor's are one trick ponies. My suspension other than my 35's is 100% stock. From factory. The only other thing I have is armor. And I'm amazed at all the terrain a Power Wagon can tackle with ease.
If you want a truck that you can simply add sliders to, and go to Moab, get a Power Wagon. If you want to sink thousands of dollars into a truck, buy a Tundra or a Ford or something that will never be as good off pavement without huge investment.
Yes, coil rears are softer than the standard 2500 springs, which allow for greater articulation. This year in Moab we had a member with an AEV Power Wagon. AEV requires you to use the standard 2500 springs with their lift kit if you have a Power Wagon. His truck tripoded on many occasions and didn't have the articulation of those with the stock springs.
In basic pratice, if that payload is a real deal breaker, you could switch out the rear springs. I tow a 2007 Airstream International Signature, tongue weight of 960lbs. And last time I was over the cat scales, 6980lbs total trailer weight. I think the combined was somewhere north of 14k. I have no real problems with payload. Truck doesn't sag becuase I spent time dailing in my WD hitch.
There was another member at our event this year towing a 5th wheel with his. While the payload number might be low, the axle ratings are still the same. And the frame is the same. So, I don't want to personally overload my vehicle. But at the same time, I'm not as worried about it with this truck, as I would be if I had a 1500.
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Buliwyf
Viking with a Hammer
''without huge investment''
You already paid that when you bought a PW. PW tax is pretty high around here. Nobody was willing to give me a decent deal on that model. So it was cheaper to build one myself. But I started with a Ford since I prefer the Dana60, and I'm in the salt belt.
OP: Crunch the numbers first. Unless you get a good deal, it might be better to custom build to your exact needs. Especially if a camper is involved. I've got a $14 000 budget to work with before I hit the PW's cost.
$3000 4.88 gears and front locker installed.
$3000 wheels and tires
$3000 4" BDS custom suspension and King 2.5's.
$3000 winch and bumper (which I'll skip because I prefer winching with a Highlift)
You already paid that when you bought a PW. PW tax is pretty high around here. Nobody was willing to give me a decent deal on that model. So it was cheaper to build one myself. But I started with a Ford since I prefer the Dana60, and I'm in the salt belt.
OP: Crunch the numbers first. Unless you get a good deal, it might be better to custom build to your exact needs. Especially if a camper is involved. I've got a $14 000 budget to work with before I hit the PW's cost.
$3000 4.88 gears and front locker installed.
$3000 wheels and tires
$3000 4" BDS custom suspension and King 2.5's.
$3000 winch and bumper (which I'll skip because I prefer winching with a Highlift)
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Tex68w
Beach Bum
It's all relative to your AO and the supply/demand. I got my PW new for $10K off of sticker so it does happen.
I think if I were in the market and looking to build a full-size 3/4-ton expo vehicle I'd most likely start with a Ram 2500 Tradesman with the Cummins diesel and a manual transmission. I like the Ford better overall after owning a few, but you can't get a Ford with a manual.
Explorerinil
Observer
I love all power wagons and they are all solid trucks, you can’t go wrong with any of them. My preference would be one with a g56 and 4:56 gears.
I used to be a 'manual only' kind of guy. But two things changed that perspective:
1) Modern automatics are a whole lot more reliable and more efficient than the older ones.
and
2) I've become dependent on coffee for long road trips; rowing through through the gears doesn't mix well with that habit.
I've driven some of the manual 3/4 ton's (mostly Dodge's); the gear engagement always felt a bit sloppy and vague to me.
plainjaneFJC
Deplorable
Everyone prefers winching with a hi-lift, unless they have a winch.
plumber mike
Adventurer
I thought I was to the age that I could accept driving an auto, but now that I own it, it’s the thing I like least about the truck. Glad I still have my first gen with a five speed.
^^This^^. I made that mistake once with a jeep. Most of the old adages about manual transmissions over auto are now a farce. Autos now have better fuel economy, are just as reliable or more in some cases, autos now have excellent down hill assist when towing. Manuals still have the edge on vehicles with oversized tires (you can get away without regearing more reasonably as autos tend to 'search for gears' without a proper regear), higher speed offroad driving on gravel or snow is better as you don't have to use the brakes when entering a turn, and in a remote situation it is quite handy to be able to pop start the truck in the event you have a dead battery or bad starter. But the real fact of the matter is once you go from a manual to an auto, you age at a rapid pace (the only way to stay young is to keep driving the manual). Offroading a manual is much more fun (obviously subjective, but accurate). And driver engagement is at an all time high with a manual, no better way to be one with your machine then to know at what speed and what engine noise it is required to shift gears and the overall ‘feel’ of the drivetrain. oh, and since this is what years are best for a power wagon and not a transmission debate, obviously 05-08 as those are the only years that they came in a manual.
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Buliwyf
Viking with a Hammer
Had one. Used it rarely, and only for a few feet. That's $3000 I can put towards a new camper or dive gear.
If I was going Dodge, I'd want a manual as well. I've never liked their transmissions.
Tex68w
Beach Bum
Not in a late model Ram they aren't lol
It is still a better option than a Ram auto. Hard off-throttle down shifts and hard/random down shifts with no change in RPM or load aren't normal or acceptable by any other manufacturers standards yet they are in a 2500/3500 Ram. I've done the relearn flash three times now and the transmission characteristics have not improved or changed one bit. It is the one and only problem/concern I have with this truck and I'd say it's a major one and valid after seeing others have their transmissions go out completely while still under warranty and yet have the claim dismissed and have to pay out of pocket.
^^This^^. I made that mistake once with a jeep. Most of the old adages about manual transmissions over auto are now a farce. Autos now have better fuel economy, are just as reliable or more in some cases, autos now have excellent down hill assist when towing. Manuals still have the edge on vehicles with oversized tires (you can get away without regearing more reasonably as autos tend to 'search for gears' without a proper regear), higher speed offroad driving on gravel or snow is better as you don't have to use the brakes when entering a turn, and in a remote situation it is quite handy to be able to pop start the truck in the event you have a dead battery or bad starter. But the real fact of the matter is once you go from a manual to an auto, you age at a rapid pace (the only way to stay young is to keep driving the manual). Offroading a manual is much more fun (obviously subjective, but accurate). And driver engagement is at an all time high with a manual, no better way to be one with your machine then to know at what speed and what engine noise it is required to shift gears and the overall ‘feel’ of the drivetrain. oh, and since this is what years are best for a power wagon and not a transmission debate, obviously 05-08 as those are the only years that they came in a manual.
Manuals are indeed more fun to drive and do provide more control over an auto.
I agree yet here I am lol.
The 68RFE certainly doesn't have the reputation of the Allison or the TorqShift, but I also don't think it's nearly as problematic as the older Dodge transmissions.
Plenty of owners out there driving high mileage 6.7L 2500's and 3500's without any problems. I haven't kept tabs on the gasoline-variant, so I don't know if that same trend holds true or not.
Also, if someone got denied a warranty claim on their transmission failing, there had to be something else going on (aftermarket mods, tuning).