New to me 2004 Tahoe, need tire and door locking problem advice.

Finally got a new used rig to start building up for family travel. We just got an 04 Tahoe in 2wd, 4wd might have been better but if it becomes an issue and limits my travel I'll add a rear locker and call it a day. That being said I need a little help and input from more experienced car guys. My ability extends to brakes, air filters, oil changes.

Main uses will be family travel of highway, gravel and fire roads/trails, forest roads. Along with hauling the bass boat for fishing trips.

I bought the tahoe knowing it needs tires asap. My question is do I stick with the stock 265/70 R17s or go for something like a Procomp leveling kit and go for 285s. Price difference including the addition of the leveling kit is about $600 ($280 tires w/roadside hazard)($280 Pro Comp Nitro 2.5" leveling kit) plus taxes and instal labor for the leveling kit. And another $200 ish if I add wheels spacers to enhance to the look and stance.

Now the part I really need help with. Just got home from a 4 hour walmart trip. We purchased the tahoe yesterday evening and when we got out of walmart this afternoon we realized the key doesn't open the door. You insert the key and it just turns left and right but doesn't engage to unlock. Lock guy came out and after the lock smith came out it turns out the power unlock button doesn't work either. It was suggested that as far as the key goes, it is not engaging and the linkage could be disconnected(hope this makes sense I'm not mechanically inclined), is this a take the panel off and reconnect problem solved thing? I have no clue about the power locks. I thought of ordering replacement key fobs from amazon(2 for $26) but then got to thinking if the power locks aren't working would this cause the key fob not to work. Obviously I'm going to contact the dealership and try to get them to fix it, especially since it's been less than 24 hours. However it was purchased "AS IS", at least I know to check the key and door locks on the next purchase, dumb move on my part I know.

I'm sure I'll be asking more questions later and will be gathering info and photos to eventually start a build thread once I make some progress.

Thank you in advance for your input and time it's greatly appreciated it.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
Any driveway mechanic should be able to install a leveling kit. Corrosion issues can complicate things but that also should be easy to overcome with a little applied physics. Look at the first link in my sig for details (pgs4-5). The only specialty tool is the torsion bar unloading tool - looks like a weird c-clamp - and that's usually available as a free loaner tool (with refundable deposit) from many chain automotive stores. The rest is a 7 bolts / nuts. Torsion key adjustment bolts, rear sway bar end link attachment bolts, rear shock bottom bolts and one bolt on the panhard bar. Oh and the bolt on the rear passenger parking brake cable hangar. The rest is jackstand and floor jack work. Drop the rear axle (sans wheels) enough and the coil springs practically fall out. Watch out for tension on the rear brake line, when reaching max lowering. The torsion bars are only held by the fit of the irregular hexagon end shapes (and maybe some corrosion). Unloaded, even if stuck, you ought to be able to knock them loose with a hammer on their ends.

rearsuspredo03_zpsoc8z7ymx.jpg
rearsuspredo04_zpswjs9vidq.jpg



The locks, I'll be damned I never noticed our '05 Tahoe only has one keyhole. Not even on the rear glass. My '02 Sub has keylocks on both front doors AND the rear glass.

Look up youtube vids on window regulator changes, they show the same fastener moves you need to remove the door panel and gain access to the door keylock mechanism. Then you can see if the mechanism is broken or if it is just that the rod connecting the solenoid has come loose. But that shouldn't happen unless the tab that traps it has broken off.

It's very easy work to get in there.
 
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