Fun Time w/ Gen 3 Brakes

[arb098]

Also, does anyone know if the ABS/EBB assembly from the 00-02 GEN 3s is compatible with the 03-06 GEN 3.5s?

 

[RyanY]

Is there a way to accurately test the HBB accumulator? .

Have you looked at the FSM? You've got several issues that are quite likely to be addressed there.

 

[Offroadmuch]

Did the piston move freely in the bore? About to do fresh rotors/pads and wheel bearing hub assemblies at all corners. I noticed a marked increase in pedal effort prior to my HBB accumulator making the dreaded "quacking duck" sound. After HBB replacement (10 min) and fresh fluid(only at the reservoir), I have much improved braking, and significantly decreased pedal pressure. Still performing the brake service, but the exiting pads are not as "fade prone", as I originally thought. I would suspect a seized caliper piston or failing HBB Accumulator. As others have opined, I would be highly suspect of any work performed by the muppet that did the brakes. My .02

Moab can you tell which HBB replacement part you used? (link if you are happy with it) Did you pull yours and get it rebuilt or new etc... Thanks (not trying to hijack but it is related )

 

[MoabRefugee]

Moab can you tell which HBB replacement part you used? (link if you are happy with it) Did you pull yours and get it rebuilt or new etc... Thanks (not trying to hijack but it is related )

Sabre has an excellent tutorial on replacing the HBB accumulator. To clarify, I did not replace or remove the HBB system, merely the accumulator, the grenade shaped object on top of the HBB assembly. It is tis component which is charged by the HBB motor/pump assembly. These make a very distinctive sound when they are close to failing. Sort of a cross between a honk and a whoosh. My brakes had been requiring additional pedal pressure for some time prior to the actual "honk".

The part is 4630A011; Accumulator, Brake Booster. Readily available online, however Cougar Mitsubishi in Utah County, matched the online price and had one in inventory.

If you have decreased operating pressures, the proportioning valve could reduce rear caliper's piston movement greatly. The easy way to check piston movement is to open the bleed nipple while applying pressure(c-clamp/channel locks etc. The piston should make a pronounced movement when the bleed nipple opens the system. I strongly suspect a seized piston, though I have no procedure for testing the system other than than that described.

I do plan to pull the HBB motor and at least clean it. It is my understanding that the worn brush material accumulates within the enclosure. I think that this may contribute to the failure. My only experience with electric motors was in the 80' while puttering with RC cars. I plan to investigate retrofitting a modern brushless motor, and possibly dimension an adapter plate/wiring harness adapter. I am expecting this to require attention soon on my 01.