The BroBurban - A 2002 2500 Suburban

[fl0w3n]

I jokingly called this a BroBurban and now the name is kind of growing with me.
I picked up this Suburban after sadly selling my Duramax truck. I put a lot of time into building the Duramax into what I wanted, and then due to financial reasons let it go. I then needed to replace it with something that could do some light to medium towing duty, wake board boat and my 74 K20 once I finish building it, and also start doing some overland style camping and adventuring. The idea is to use the rig as the sleeping platform, vs a tent or even RTT.

I want to use this to kind of keep track of what I'm doing and need to do, but also learn and share with others. I'm going to be replicating a lot of things I did to the Duramax on the Suburban, while also changing the things that I looked back and went "I wish" to.

Some quick specs on the Suburban:
Picked it up for $3700
6.0 LQ4
4l80e
4wd NP246
4.10 Gears
155k miles
Interior is fully loaded, which is nice for now, until all the electronics start dying.
There's some leaks and work to get it reliable for what I want, but I think worth it for the price.

The Duramax I sold

The Suburban on its way home from picking it up.

Very first order of business was to remove the side steps and door moldings.

 

[fl0w3n]

Now onto the list of what the plan is. Stuff in green has been completed.

The plan right now is to get this thing as a solid and reliable tow rig for the summer season of boating.

• 
  [*]Water pump
  [*]Thermostat
  [*]Fan Clutch
  [*]Oil Pressure Sender
  [*]Valve Cover gaskets (maybe)
  [*]Steering pump rebuild
  [*]NP246 pump rub fix, and possibly front case half replacement
  [*]Flush coolant
• Flush brakes
  [*]Flush power steering
  [*]Oil change
• Trans flush
  [*]Transfer case fluid change
• Front/Rear diff fluid change
• Spark plugs/coil packs

As far as upgrades go, here's the plan:

• 
  [*]Steering gearbox rebuild from Lee steering
  [*]Kryptonite tie rods
  [*]Krptonite idler pivot and weld in brace
• Camburg leveling kit with uniball UCA and Fox remote res shocks
• 33" tires on PY0 rims for now, possibly Method rims in the future
• U-bolt flip kit in rear
• Deaver mini pack in rear
• Kryptonite lower ball joints once the stock ones wear out
• Aftermarket stereo system
• CB Radio
• Possibly swap to cloth seats
• Modify front bumper and maybe mount a winch hidden in factory bumper
• Trailer brake controller
• Tint Windows
• Polish headlights
• Replace tail lights

Camping/overland related stuff - I've never really done what I envision doing with this truck, so my list is small right now. I don't know what I don't know, yet. The plan is to start locally doing some one/two night camps at the beach or camp sites with my girlfriend, and working up to a trip from Southern California to Portland Oregon to visit a friend, camping and over landing along the way. My long term dream is to do a one month trip from Southern California to Prudhoe Bay Alaska. I have a lot to learn and do before that trip, in terms of figuring out how to live out of this thing for a month.

• Create a sleeping and storage platform for the back after removing middle/3rd row seats. Needs to be relatively easily taken out and put back, for now, due to summer family towing use needing the seats
• Eventually a powered cooler/fridge
• Make some sort of contraption that is a mesh net for Windows so we can open the windows while sleeping but not be eaten by bugs and whatever else
• As far as the vehicle goes, I think that's it so far. Work on creating the "pack" items over time and experimentation. Also hoping to learn a lot from the group here.

 

[kojackJKU]

Nice....I would use the same rims that you had on your silvy. They look awesome!

 

[01BURB]

What kind of shape are the leather seats in? I know shipping would be expensive but I might be interested in them if you want to unload them

 

[rayra]

I would strongly suggest the replacement of the heater hose connectors high on the firewall in conjunction with your cooling system refresh. And further related to that and making it much easier to access those connectors, an almost surely needed intake manifold gasket change and inspection / replacement / sealing of your knock sensors. See the top link in my sig. I've been doing much the same 'refresh' work to my Sub the last couple years.

valve cover gaskets are cheap and easy to replace on these motors, as is a water pump / thermostat swap. They've really done a nice job in the modular layout of these Vortec motors vs earlier SBC designs.

If you aren't already aware of Rockauto.com, check them out. I've been amazed at their deals and cursing that I didn't find them long ago.

eta

I'm also curious what the factory trans cooler situation is for the 2500s, is it the same small unit behind and below the grill emblem as my 1500 Z71/Tow? If so, if you'll be towing around the inland valleys of SoCal (where your pics look like) you might consider a trans cooler upgrade. Not that the 4L80E has to have it, but it does get damned hot around here and we have all these mountain grades

welcome aboard

 

[fl0w3n]

Nice....I would use the same rims that you had on your silvy. They look awesome!

Those were some H2 rims with Chevy center caps. I went back and forth on liking/hating them. I've always liked the PY0 factory aluminum rims when you put 285s on them, but I've never run them. I'll keep them for a while as is until I make a decision.

What kind of shape are the leather seats in? I know shipping would be expensive but I might be interested in them if you want to unload them

Decent wear on the driver side, beginnings of some tears. All seats have been sat in for about 10k miles at least, because the guy I bought it from had 6 kids and his wife. I can get some pics if you want, but I'd need to find a full set of cloth before I get rid of all 3 rows.

I would strongly suggest the replacement of the heater hose connectors high on the firewall in conjunction with your cooling system refresh. And further related to that and making it much easier to access those connectors, an almost surely needed intake manifold gasket change and inspection / replacement / sealing of your knock sensors. See the top link in my sig. I've been doing much the same 'refresh' work to my Sub the last couple years.

valve cover gaskets are cheap and easy to replace on these motors, as is a water pump / thermostat swap. They've really done a nice job in the modular layout of these Vortec motors vs earlier SBC designs.

If you aren't already aware of Rockauto.com, check them out. I've been amazed at their deals and cursing that I didn't find them long ago.

eta

I'm also curious what the factory trans cooler situation is for the 2500s, is it the same small unit behind and below the grill emblem as my 1500 Z71/Tow? If so, if you'll be towing around the inland valleys of SoCal (where your pics look like) you might consider a trans cooler upgrade. Not that the 4L80E has to have it, but it does get damned hot around here and we have all these mountain grades

welcome aboard

Thanks for the tip on the heater hose connectors!

Knock sensors were replaced by previous owner, however, I think the intake valley pan and valve cover gaskets are leaking. Previous owner also thought it had a rear main leak, but I'm pretty confident it's not and its actually the oil pressure sensor.

RockAuto is awesome, as well as GMPartsDirect! I already have a few deliveries from both waiting to be torn into this weekend.

I'll look into it further, I know it has an auxiliary trans cooler but not sure of the size. It can't hurt to upgrade to the biggest one I can fit, I definitely will be seeing the Grape Vine and there's a hill that I think is even tougher than the Grape Vine on the way to Shaver Lake, it's a brutal 10 mile constant climb at a heavy percent, probably close to double digits.

 

[chilliwak]

Nice looking rig Flow. I look forward to see the progress on your build. Cheers, Chilli..

 

[rayra]

good bet on the oil pressure sensor. Also look at the bolted plate on the top lip of the oil pan above the oil filter. It's a cover plate for an optional oil cooler install, that plate leaks too and the oil flows down and around the oil filter mount and onto the bellhousing, imitating a rear main seal leak. I've had the pans off both my 02 Sub (130k mi) and 05 Tahoe (180k mi) and found zero sign of any rear main leakage whatsoever.

You'll see a minimal bit of crud around the front of the valley pan and front ends of the heads, I'd call it 'normal' on a high mileage Vortec engine. Compared to the way SBCs used to make it rain, it's really amazing.

 

[fl0w3n]

Nice looking rig Flow. I look forward to see the progress on your build. Cheers, Chilli..

Thanks! I hope to bring the action quickly, as I need this thing up and running to go pick the boat up in Fresno and bring it home to get ready for 4th of July trip. Should be a good test run.

This 3 day weekend I plan to do the water pump, thermostat, fan clutch, valve cover gaskets, oil pressure sender, intake pan gasket, oil change, diff oil change, spark plugs, and the heater hose T that rayra brought up. Also just generally tighten and clean some things up. I found what looks like a good deal on some 285/75r16's that I was planning to pickup tomorrow as I drove around for work, but now the truck's going to be full with another load so I don't know if I can fit them any more. Bummer.

good bet on the oil pressure sensor. Also look at the bolted plate on the top lip of the oil pan above the oil filter. It's a cover plate for an optional oil cooler install, that plate leaks too and the oil flows down and around the oil filter mount and onto the bellhousing, imitating a rear main seal leak. I've had the pans off both my 02 Sub (130k mi) and 05 Tahoe (180k mi) and found zero sign of any rear main leakage whatsoever.

You'll see a minimal bit of crud around the front of the valley pan and front ends of the heads, I'd call it 'normal' on a high mileage Vortec engine. Compared to the way SBCs used to make it rain, it's really amazing.

I'll be sure to check it too. This thing has oil crud built up everywhere basically. It's pretty bad for the year, at least from my limited exposure.

 

[rayra]

Guy probably switched to synthetic mid-way thru. Mine wasn't leaking a drop on the ground at 116k mi, had a little crud on it. Did a Synth oil change and it started raining. Wouldn't stop after I switched back, either, so I started changing gaskets.

Depending on your mileage, might want to change your s-belt tensioner and idler pulleys and the tensioner on your AC belt too. Or at least slip the belts and give them an inspection spin. Those are far cheaper at rockauto than autozone, too. I changed both belts as part of my baselining the maintenance, pretty much did a full 100k mi maintenance on it. Saved the replaced belts as emergency spares.

 

[borison]

The Hummer wheels from the Silverado and the factory wheels from the Suburban are the number 1 & 2 best looking choices for wheels on the GM 3/4t rigs. Stick with either and you're set.

 

[fl0w3n]

Guy probably switched to synthetic mid-way thru. Mine wasn't leaking a drop on the ground at 116k mi, had a little crud on it. Did a Synth oil change and it started raining. Wouldn't stop after I switched back, either, so I started changing gaskets.

Depending on your mileage, might want to change your s-belt tensioner and idler pulleys and the tensioner on your AC belt too. Or at least slip the belts and give them an inspection spin. Those are far cheaper at rockauto than autozone, too. I changed both belts as part of my baselining the maintenance, pretty much did a full 100k mi maintenance on it. Saved the replaced belts as emergency spares.

After reading through some of your stuff I began to wonder if the synthetic was the issue at some point. I have to imagine it's a high probability.

I was planning on doing the main belt and AC belt, using the heavy duty green ones, but not the actual pulley or tensioner. I'll check them though.

Right now I have already have the fan and shroud off and the belt, and steering box out. Access to a lot of things is going to be easier right now.

 

[NevadaLover]

When you get the oil pressure sensor out make sure to check in the hole it screwed out of for a screen that gm used, yours shouldn't have it but I have seen them in 6 liter gassers before, if it has one you need to pull it out and scrub the oily residue with soap and hot water as they get gummy and don't read correctly! easy fix!
They look like this!

 

[fl0w3n]

When you get the oil pressure sensor out make sure to check in the hole it screwed out of for a screen that gm used, yours shouldn't have it but I have seen them in 6 liter gassers before, if it has one you need to pull it out and scrub the oily residue with soap and hot water as they get gummy and don't read correctly! easy fix!
They look like this!
View attachment 402526

Hmm, thanks for the heads up. I didn't notice one when I had it out... but I didn't specifically look for it either. How deep in the hole would it have been? From my angle I was able to see about half an inch in, I just saw all threads.

 

[NevadaLover]

I use an angled pick to hook them and pull them up, just a little too deep to get out with my sausage fingers!