Shifting problems

kerry

Expedition Leader
On a trip. Got off the interstate and pulled away from a stop sign and couldn't get it out of second. Shifter wouldn't pull back. Pulled into a parking lot and then it went into neutral . Drove smile or so and everything seemed fine. But when I started running through the gears again in a parking lot shifter hung up again in 4th. Any idea what it could be. Shifter linkages? Internal transmission issues?
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
Not that it is really related to your current issue, but a while back I actually modified an internal bush in my gearbox, as it was way too sloppy in my opinion. Mind you... that was when the gearbox only had about 4K on it.
I noticed a definite difference in how the change was between third and fourth after making that modification.

To that end... the first thing I would check are the linkages, making sure there is no interference anywhere and that there is no excessive play in the joints.
Could also be a sticky clutch, if this sticking is only happening when driving. To test that... if it gets stuck again, feather the accelerator so that the gearbox is not under load from accelerating or decelerating. When the gearbox is in a zero load state you should be able to shift the the gear lever fairly easily back into neutral.
 

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
Since you have been having brake fluid leaks, etc, could this be somehow related?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 

kerry

Expedition Leader
I was wondering about both the brake fluid issue and a sticking clutch. Engagement is near the floor so I will adjust that higher when I get home. I've driven about 250 miles since this happened and it hasn't repeated except for one moment when it just seemed slightly reluctant to come out of second. I did confirm fluid level in transmission is fine. I skaldic wondered if mane there was a bubble of air in the clutch system given all the. Leering they had to when installing the new fluid tank.
 

kerry

Expedition Leader
There is some excessive play where one of the rods attaches to a bell crank on top of the right frame member. Don't know if that piece has a replaceable bushing or not
 

kerry

Expedition Leader
Back home after about another 600 miles and no further recurrence of the problem. I'll adjust the clutch and wait for future developments.
 

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
Back home after about another 600 miles and no further recurrence of the problem. I'll adjust the clutch and wait for future developments.

That's good news. I understood the clutches to be pretty robust in these.
 

kerry

Expedition Leader
Clutch replaced and transmission rebuilt about 20k miles ago. Clutch was original at about 195k miles so yes, robust. Not had any real problems with it apart from bad syncros prior to the rebuild although once in a while it has taken extra effort to get it into second at a stop. (I typically start in 2nd and not 1st) I turned the clutch adjustment one full turn out and it moved the engagement point up an inch or so at the pedal. It was close to the floor prior to that so perhaps it can be explained by the clutch not fully releasing.

Now that I think about it, perhaps I should have turned the adjustment the other way. I did check before and after and the pedal engagement did move up. But theoretically, it now seems to me that as the clutch disc wears, the springs move outwards and the clutch adjustment should be shortened not lengthened since the springs would be closer to the throw out bearing. But maybe the clutch has not worn much and it wasn't adjusted properly when installed.
 
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pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
Clutch replaced and transmission rebuilt about 20k miles ago. Clutch was original at about 195k miles so yes, robust. Not had any real problems with it apart from bad syncros prior to the rebuild although once in a while it has taken extra effort to get it into second at a stop. (I typically start in 2nd and not 1st) I turned the clutch adjustment one full turn out and it moved the engagement point up an inch or so at the pedal. It was close to the floor prior to that so perhaps it can be explained by the clutch not fully releasing.

Now that I think about it, perhaps I should have turned the adjustment the other way. I did check before and after and the pedal engagement did move up. But theoretically, it now seems to me that as the clutch disc wears, the springs move outwards and the clutch adjustment should be shortened not lengthened since the springs would be closer to the throw out bearing. But maybe the clutch has not worn much and it wasn't adjusted properly when installed.

Only issue I wrestle with is my 4th gear synchro has left the building. I do okay double clutching it (not great - okay).
 

kerry

Expedition Leader
4th syncro was the worst on mine before I had it rebuilt. It was irritating on steep climbs when I needed a quick downshift to maintain momentum.
 

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