JKU Slider Window Retrofit Install

Yuke

Adventurer
If you have been following some of the other threads on this forum. You may have seen some of Jeff's custom hardtop designs evolve over time. One such design was the sliding window conversion on the JKU hard tops. I have wanted a gull wing style hatch for a long time, in order to provide access to gear from the outside. When I saw Jeff's design on the sliding windows, I knew I had to have them. While they are not access panels as I keep dreaming of. I really liked the design and they provided the classic look I was after. I know this is a Jeep forum but I did like the classic land cruiser look they provided.

Joel at Retrofit Offroad was nice enough to hook me up with an early set of the JKU Hardtop sliders. Retrofit Offroad is the company who brought these to market after Jeff's initial design. They currently have a limited production of clear windows available and are taking pre-orders for the tinted windows. I have the tinted windows and they match my Jeeps passenger windows perfectly which are tinted about 20%.

The goal of this post is to provide you with some insight to the installation and show you what they look like on the Jeep.

Overall, installation is relatively easy. I consider myself mechanically inclined, if you are intimidated by this installation write up you may way to consider talking to a local body show. Feel free to ask questions as well. I will help the best I can.

Tools Required:
- Long Bladed Utility Knife
- Sharp Chisel
- Drill / Driver
- Socket set if not using the drill as a driver
- Dremel
- Dremel cutting blades
- Dremel sanding bit
- Sandpaper

Using a long-bladed utility knife, cut the adhesive loose from the glass. This will take multiple passes, and some force may be required to cut through the tough adhesive. You're cutting through about 3/4" of adhesive, so you probably won't cut all the way through in one pass. Multiple passes cutting deeper each time is the way to go. Working on a hardtop on a Jeep, we recommend cutting the bottom and sides first, then working on the top edge. I left my hardtop installed and found it easy to access the windows for removal. If you have a cargo shelf, you will need to remove it to access from the inside. I had to remove my teraflex cargo shelf and my storage system added some more difficulty as well. Once the top edge is almost cut through, you can tilt the glass up from the outside and make the last cut, which ensures you the last cut won't cause the glass to fall on the floor and shatter.



I found the corners to be the most difficult to cut through, take your time here. You also want to be very careful that you do not cut through the sealant too much and send the blade into the hard top on the other side. I did this once before I noticed the issue. Just be careful and take it slow. If you have another set of eyes to watch the blade from the outside and guide you I would recommend using them. Here you can see the tip of my knife that is through the sealant and could easily continue forward to scratch the tops finish.



Also be careful of your hand placement. You do not want to cut yourself!

This is what you should have once you remove the factory glass.



There is still a 3/4" wide x 1/4" thick bead of rubber sealant stuck to the fiberglass. Iused a 1/2" chisel to scrape the sealant off. I picked up a brand new chisel to ensure a sharp edge. I did noticed that once you have the sealant started, most of it will come off in a strip if you simply pull it off in a gentle manner.

Now we get into trimming. The Retrofit Window kit is slightly larger than the tops factory opening so we must expand the factory window opening. I chose to do my cutting with a dremel and cutting wheel. You are free to use your tool of choice. Just be aware that you do not want to use a coarse blade, as that may chip or crack the fiberglass.

In order to find out what areas need to be cut you will hold up the window adapter (the open frame) to the hard top. Any part of the factory top that is showing within the window adapter frame needs to be cut out. You can use a sharpie to trace this opening as a guide.



Here is my jeep after the cutting process.



Once the holes is cut, set the retrofit kit back in place and note any areas which will need adjustment – using sandpaper or a file remove any additional material necessary so that the window opening in the hardtop matches the inside opening of the retrofit kit. As a further test, the slider window can be test fit in the opening, if there's any binding on the inside of the opening a little trimming or sanding is probably still required.

Apply the flat weatherstrip to the inside of the mounting flange on the window frame. The weatherstrip has adhesive on both sides; leave the protective paper on the exposed edge of the weatherstrip for now. The weatherstrip should be even with the outside edge of the frame, and the ends should meet at the bottom of the frame; trim the ends for a tight joint.





Remove the protective paper from the weatherstrip you applied in step 1 and install the retrofit kit frame to that weatherstrip. Push the retrofit kit frame and the window frame together all the way around to ensure a good bond between the window frame, weatherstrip, and retrofit kit frame.



Next you will apply the bulb weatherstrip to the inside of the retrofit kit frame. The weatherstrip should be even with the outside edge of
the retrofit kit frame. The weatherstrip should ends should meet at the bottom of the frame, and should be trimmed for a tight joint.



The final step in the sealing process is to apply a bead of caulk to the inside of the window recess in the hardtop. The caulk should be along the corner where the window mounting surface joins the sides of the recess. The kit comes with all the silicone you need. Overall, I was impressed by that. Most manufacturers would likely tell you to provide your own sealant.

Have a helper insert the retrofit kit/window assembly into the window opening from the outside of the hardtop and hold it in place while you install the window clamp ring with 8 screws. The screws are self-drilling/ self tapping, and a nut driver (either handheld or in a battery-powered driver) will drive them without slipping. 1"-long screws will be used in each corner of the window and 3/4" screws will be used in the center of each edge of the window. Drive each screw in until it holds the clamp ring and the window firmly together but do not overtighten. I did this alone, but I recommend having a second pair of hands.



Now step back and admire your handy work.

 

jscherb

Expedition Leader
... Looking forward to the 2 door kit.

Next Wednesday I have meetings with both the RV window company and the hardware manufacturer to turn over the 2dr slider window specs/template and the prototype 2dr retrofit kit for manufacturing. I'm also turning over the specs/template for the Freedom Panel pop-up skylight kit.
 

yfarm

Observer
Try a piece of braided fishing line tied to a large washer or screwdriver as a handle for a cutting instrument, will slice through polyurethane sealants like butter. Use a curved sewing needle with pliers to pass line through at the start.
 

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