FJ62 LS Swap - Lone Star Sleeper - Stoffregen Motorsports

[chunko]

Awesome build! Actually, I've read through all your builds on here but glad to be on board from day 1 on this one.

Also is the use of the fuego pump due to space constraints?

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[JunkManTX]

Awesome build! Actually, I've read through all your builds on here but glad to be on board from day 1 on this one.

Also is the use of the fuego pump due to space constraints?

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Wait is the ps pump or just the reservoir from a Renault? Love the detail in your post

 

[Metcalf]

Good stuff!

Small question. What are you using for chassis and axle paint? The satin black stuff....

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Awesome build! Actually, I've read through all your builds on here but glad to be on board from day 1 on this one.

Also is the use of the fuego pump due to space constraints?

Thanks for the compliment and thanks for watching. The Fuego pump can is what I want to try. They call it a reservoir, but since it uses a remote reservoir, it's more accurate to call it a pump housing. But since the only way to get the can is to buy the pump, I'll see if the pump is the same and maybe we'll use that too.

Wait is the ps pump or just the reservoir from a Renault? Love the detail in your post

I'm assuming this is you Brian. Junk man... Thanks for posting. The answer to your pump question is above. And thanks for the compliment. It takes a bit of effort to keep track of it all, but it's worth it in the end.

Good stuff!

Small question. What are you using for chassis and axle paint? The satin black stuff....

The final paint is Dupli-color low gloss black engine paint with high ceramic content. But underneath that I also use SEM self etching black primer. And underneath the primer is a fully cleaned and etched bare metal that gets there by use of Krud Kutter metal etch. It's a bit of work, but it is rock hard and very durable.

 

[NCFJ]

Looking good Matt, has a familiar look to it

 

[Metcalf]

Thanks for the compliment and thanks for watching. The Fuego pump can is what I want to try. They call it a reservoir, but since it uses a remote reservoir, it's more accurate to call it a pump housing. But since the only way to get the can is to buy the pump, I'll see if the pump is the same and maybe we'll use that too.



I'm assuming this is you Brian. Junk man... Thanks for posting. The answer to your pump question is above. And thanks for the compliment. It takes a bit of effort to keep track of it all, but it's worth it in the end.



The final paint is Dupli-color low gloss black engine paint with high ceramic content. But underneath that I also use SEM self etching black primer. And underneath the primer is a fully cleaned and etched bare metal that gets there by use of Krud Kutter metal etch. It's a bit of work, but it is rock hard and very durable.

Thank you. That helps a lot.

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Looking good Matt, has a familiar look to it

If we were to compare build styles, there are definitely similarities. I very much like certain things you do on your build, but as Brennan said, I also like to do things differently from the other guys.

Thanks.

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Thank you. That helps a lot.

Yup. No problemo.

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Progress has been ongoing, but not in the order I'd like. I'm still waiting on the replacement transmission (they sent me a 6L90E instead of a 6L80E), so in the meantime, I've been doing a lot of the small stuff, like the fuel system plumbing, re-assembly of the frame bits, etc. This type of work is usually done after that engine install, but this way I will be so much closer to being able to fire the engine, once it's installed.

Also, the Fuego P/S pump did not work out. I do have a plan though. It requires a TOG welder...

Pics coming soon.

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Installation of the new large fuel tank from Man-A-Fre is pretty simple, but does require some thought. The first hurdle is the vent lines, they don't match up. With a little bit of thought (and some experience from the last one I built), I came up with a plan to get all the lines hooked up properly. We're even going to run a charcoal canister in this truck (we did not in the last one).

Stock tank and breather line pics.





All of the fuel vapor lines are new.



While I was in there, I installed a new grommet around the fuel tank filler neck.

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

To get the right amount of fuel to the new engine, an EFI pump is required. If we were using the stock tank, we could probably have gotten away with using the stock pump, but I wasn't going to waste any time installing a Toyota pump in this new tank. It just doesn't make sense. A replacement Toyota pump costs $$$, but the one we installed only costs $ and you can get it at any parts store across the country.

First, I had to locate the pump directly over the sump in the bottom of the tank.













Cutting and drilling will result in lots of metal getting into the tank. To minimize that, a good ole' shop vac was employed.

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Getting the fuel pump set up in the new Tanks Inc pump module is a snap. I do it a bit differently though. I use only the feed line in the module and plug the other two ports. The fuel return is plumbed to a port already welded to the tank. The reason for this is so that you can't get the lines confused during future maintenance.

First I had to measure the depth of the new tank.



Then set up the module.







Since the new tank is much deeper than the OEM unit, the fuel level sending unit needs to be extended.





Both the module and sending unit installed.

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

More pics of the tank and fuel system.

The last truck I used this tank and fuel pump combo in had a pretty pronounced whine to it, so to help alleviate some of that, I lined the top of the tank with Dynamat. Then I made up the fuel feed and return lines as well as the fuel pump pigtail.





Here's the underside of the truck, prepped and ready to accept the fuel tank.



A new hard fuel line was bent up in 3/8" tubing. Keeping it away from heat is critical so I bent it to go up the firewall as far from the exhaust as I could get it. I made a bracket to hold the -6AN bulkhead fitting and bolted it to the firewall. Then the hard line was wrapped with a heat sleeve to protect it from the heat. New hoses were made up also using -6ANf fittings and then they too were wrapped with heat sleeve.









Here's the bulkhead fitting attached to the firewall with the new hose and hard line attached to it.



And here's the three way regulator/filter. These are pretty neat.

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

These swaps often require lots of small adapter fittings. Some of these are hard to source. The Denso A/C pump has unique fittings that only one shop makes, same with the oil pressure gauge sending unit, only one shop had the right fitting (these guys are in Australia).





One fitting that doesn't exist is an adapter fitting to fit the 16mm temp sending unit to the head, so instead, I drill and tap the head for the 16mm OEM Toyota temp sender, which will power the factory temp gauge in the dash.

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Next, I decided to work on the brakes. Fitting a larger booster greatly reduces the pedal effort required to bring this behemoth to a stop, and luckily, the FJ80 booster, while hugely expensive new, is relatively plentiful in wrecking yards. I happened to have a good one here, so that saved me a trip.

We may or may not use the 1" bore master cylinder, but I'll install it anyway and decide if it's right after we drive it.

Stock setup.



Stock compared to FJ80.



FJ80 booster/master combo installed. Note - this is a disc/drum master from an early FJ80.