Newb with questions... and an eventual build thread.

Mr4btTahoe

New member
New to the forum... been drooling over this site for some time and finally decided to join up.

I've decided to build a hard side camper to fit my flatbed.

For starters.. the truck I'll be using.

It's a '90 F350 Crew Cab SRW 4x4. Fresh 7.3 IDI with ATS turbo system... ZF5 5spd... Kingpin Dana 60 up front.. Sterling 10.25 in the rear (soon to be regeared to 4.88). Rolling on AR 16.5s wrapped in Load range "E' 37x12.5s from an HMMWV (rated at 4450# each). I'm slowly but surely reworking every system on the truck to make it cross-country reliable. It ain't pretty... but it's a tank. (cant post links to my photobucket yet apparently...)

Now the plan... I want to build a full width drop on camper that will come up and over the cab a good ways (for a large bunk). I'd like to use steel for the framing.. 1.5" square tube. First question is wall thickness... I've read through a few threads where some guys are using .090" wall and some are using .120". I'm concerned with weight going with a thick wall.. so I was planning on .090. Will that do the trick strength wise? Would 1x2 be better then 1.5 square? I don't see many threads discussing framing specifically... so maybe I'm overthinking it?

I want to build it with a side entrance.. and skin it with what ever is suggested. I've seen guys using aluminum... I've seen guys using sheet metal... some fiberglass. I've got the tools and know-how to work with steel and fiberglass sheeting... probably want to stay away from aluminum as I have no way to weld it, bend it, etc.

I haven't seen many pictures or build threads showing the framework of these custom campers... so my plan so far is pretty basic. I was thinking 16" OC main supports with some triangulation (not sure how I'd work it in) and additional framing for windows/doors.

Mainly... my questions for now are material thickness and what would be best to skin the outside with. Once I get an idea there.. I can draw it up and start getting materials.

Thanks in advance.
 

Mr4btTahoe

New member
Drew up the basic design in cad and called up my local steel supplier. I think I'll go with 1.5" square tube with 15ga. wall thickness (assuming that will be strong enough).

Added up the tubing in the frame and I'll need roughly 260'. I gave myself an extra 100' (360' total) for unforeseen issues (an even 15 sticks). At ~1.5lb per foot, that puts me at ~540# for the frame.

The exterior skin will either be plywood/epoxy, fiberglass sheeting, plastic sheeting, or aluminum. I haven't decided which or what will be the most cost effective. I may be able to get plastic sheeting for close to free (a close friend is a manager at a plastics plant and can probably get me what ever I want for cost or free).

GVWR for the truck is 11k lbs and it currently scales around 7200. I'd like to get this done with a dry weight around 2k which I think is doable.

After taking some measurements, my main concern right now is height... so I believe I'm going to attempt a hardside pop-up.

Still cant post links... but I found a really nice design that I like... (how long until I can post links and pictures??)

However I want to go over the cab as well for the sleeper area.. so the "popup" portion will only be the top 1.5'.. basically meaning while running down the road and everything closed up, it will be ~5.25' from the deck on the flatbed to the top of the camper. The height of the sleeping area will be ~1.5' when closed. When open, it will be ~7' overall with the sleep area now being 3.5' high (should give plenty of room for a mattress and room to sleep).

Anyways.. I was quoted just ~$.90 per foot for the tubing if I take full sticks.. so roughly $350. Then the skin and insulation material to get the shell done. I'll be happy if I can get the shell complete for under $1k... might be a tall order based on some of the builds I've seen on here... but I think it's doable.

So.. will 1.5" square tube with a .070 wall be enough? It'll be framed 16" on center with additional support and triangulation to support the sleeping area which will extend ~ 4' forward over the cab.
 

Darwin

Explorer
I highly doubt you will come in anywhere close to 2000 lbs dry. Even some of the professionals on here using lightweight composite panels come in at 3,000 lbs, and they have a tone of experience.

I would look into doing something with panels from totalcomposites.com he is a sponsor on here and can source panels, windows, doors, everything for the shell to be build. The shell can be assembled in a week or less with some help.
 

Mr4btTahoe

New member
I highly doubt you will come in anywhere close to 2000 lbs dry. Even some of the professionals on here using lightweight composite panels come in at 3,000 lbs, and they have a tone of experience.

I would look into doing something with panels from totalcomposites.com he is a sponsor on here and can source panels, windows, doors, everything for the shell to be build. The shell can be assembled in a week or less with some help.


Looking into it but it will more then likely put me over my budget. As far as weight... I'm wanting something very similar to the custom build by Idacamper which was steel/wood/epoxy construction built in his garage scales at 2200 fully dressed (but dry). I don't plan to be quite as big as his nor do I want all the goodies he has.. so I wouldn't think it would be too far out of reach.

Then again... 2k was just an idea.. I dont really care about the numbers as I know the truck will handle the weight. I've had over 3k on the bed and it didn't mind it much.. that was centered on the bed which didnt distribute the weight very well compared to how the camper will be built.

Anyways.. looking into the panels now though. Thanks for the input.
 

Mr4btTahoe

New member
Lets see if this works...

So here is the truck...


And here is where I'm getting my inspiration..
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/1111870-idashos-idacamper2-0-a.html

His design works well. I plan to make a few changes and mine probably wont be nearly as luxurious as his for a while... but it'll work.

For starters... I gotta get the truck ready. So far, I've gone through the engine (150k on bottom end.. still had crosshatch in the bores), new heads, fresh injection pump and injectors, all gaskets/seals. Have an extra trans sitting in the garage that I'll be tearing down in a few months and fully rebuilding along with a transfercase. Just had the rear drive line rebuilt and have a new rear diff getting ready to be regeared to 4.88 and swapped in with new brakes, shocks, suspension bushings, etc..

Front diff will come out this winter.. new front springs, bushings, shocks, regear front to match, new u-joints, rebuild kingpins. punch out the knuckles for GM tie rod taper with custom DOM tie rod and drag link. Brakes are already new.. and new wheel bearings and hubs.

That should pretty well handle the truck side of things. Not worried about the body and the interior will be reworked, but it isn't a necessity.

I'm also hoping to order materials for the camper in the next few months... we'll see.
 

Mr4btTahoe

New member
Yup... he started his own business after building the first one in his garage.

Anyways... here are some shots from the truck refurb...

How I drug it home... (blown motor)


Set of group 31s and made up some new 2/0 cables..




New heads, gaskets, cleaned up and painted...


Rolled and rattle canned...


Auxiliary fuel tank (typically filled with polished waste motor oil), tool box, led reverse/work lights..


New rear driveshaft... all spicer joints, carrier, and slips.. new heavy wall 3.5" tubes




Bed is coming off this winter too for a rework. The previous owner did a number to it...

Rear end ready to go in... new 3" shoes and drums, dually wheel cylinders, all new bearings/seals, etc..


Stock pile of parts waiting for the install...


Now just to find time to get it done... lol BTW... I love taking pictures so hope you guys don't mind.
 
Looking good. A lot of good information on the 7.3 at thedieselstop.com I ran those for years in the Midwest and tore into a couple of them. Not big on power (turbo is a good move, maybe propane too), but very reliable and easy to work on if you watch your coolant additives.
 

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