Hello all,
My spark plugs were due, and upon finding out that LR specs the NGK IFR5N10 (Laser Iridium) at over $20 CAD, I began some research. Many had warned against using anything but the NGK laser iridium. NGK, when using their database recommends the Laser IFR5N10 Iridium as OE Series, and the BKR5EIX-11 Iridium IX as an alternate replacement.
Their site ( https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about...-difference-between-oe-iridium-and-iridium-ix) states that the OE series were designed for maximum longevity with a dual precious metal configuration and last 80-100 thousand miles. The NGK Iridium IX has a single precious metal configuration and last 40-50 thousand miles. Both are available in various heat ranges and applications, and "the two plugs perform similarly."
Many who have done the job have stated that they aren't comfortable leaving any plug in place for as long as 100,000 mi. as the plugs like to weld themselves in to the threads. I agree with that and plan on replacing plugs every 50 000 mi anyways so I was able to save over 50% of the Laser Iridium price by going with the Iridium IX. It has been a few thousand Km since and I have had no problems. I've noticed more even power in the low range, a smoother idle and lower fuel consumption.
The rest of my reading was of people on forums not sure if they should tackle the spark plug and wondering if it is an especially difficult job. Some recommended against even trying it. Well, I'm here to say that its plenty easy! An hour start to finish. A few tricks. Use a small pick to lightly pry up the plastic clip on the electrical connectors. As you hold the clip up use a flathead screwdriver to pop the plug off. Those plugs seemed to hold people up, but using this method I had them all off in a minute or two. The PCV doesnt need to be removed to do the replacement, however it does have to be off to properly install the plastic coil cover when you're finished so may as remove it at the start and get the extra room. Don't forget antiseize on the new plugs. Any lubricant or thread treatment will affect torque values, so follow the instructions on the NGK box. Hand tighten, then tighten an additional 1/2 to 2/3 of a turn.
Just wanted to pass along that the cheaper plugs work just fine!
My spark plugs were due, and upon finding out that LR specs the NGK IFR5N10 (Laser Iridium) at over $20 CAD, I began some research. Many had warned against using anything but the NGK laser iridium. NGK, when using their database recommends the Laser IFR5N10 Iridium as OE Series, and the BKR5EIX-11 Iridium IX as an alternate replacement.
Their site ( https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about...-difference-between-oe-iridium-and-iridium-ix) states that the OE series were designed for maximum longevity with a dual precious metal configuration and last 80-100 thousand miles. The NGK Iridium IX has a single precious metal configuration and last 40-50 thousand miles. Both are available in various heat ranges and applications, and "the two plugs perform similarly."
Many who have done the job have stated that they aren't comfortable leaving any plug in place for as long as 100,000 mi. as the plugs like to weld themselves in to the threads. I agree with that and plan on replacing plugs every 50 000 mi anyways so I was able to save over 50% of the Laser Iridium price by going with the Iridium IX. It has been a few thousand Km since and I have had no problems. I've noticed more even power in the low range, a smoother idle and lower fuel consumption.
The rest of my reading was of people on forums not sure if they should tackle the spark plug and wondering if it is an especially difficult job. Some recommended against even trying it. Well, I'm here to say that its plenty easy! An hour start to finish. A few tricks. Use a small pick to lightly pry up the plastic clip on the electrical connectors. As you hold the clip up use a flathead screwdriver to pop the plug off. Those plugs seemed to hold people up, but using this method I had them all off in a minute or two. The PCV doesnt need to be removed to do the replacement, however it does have to be off to properly install the plastic coil cover when you're finished so may as remove it at the start and get the extra room. Don't forget antiseize on the new plugs. Any lubricant or thread treatment will affect torque values, so follow the instructions on the NGK box. Hand tighten, then tighten an additional 1/2 to 2/3 of a turn.
Just wanted to pass along that the cheaper plugs work just fine!
. Not many people have done write ups on these stateside. However,
