New Expedition Camper - Overland Explorer

HowardH

Adventurer
Howard,

3. Consider just buttoning up your project and purchasing a small built up trail rig to tow behind your camper for all that 'off-road' activity.
jefe

Great minds think alike. I've a 95 Land Cruiser with lifted suspension and lockers. plus quads. Those can handle all my trail riding as well as more extreme 4x4 roads. If I was looking for a big rig to handle "off road", (not aware of any place in the US where one can truly off road, everything is limited to established roads/trails only) I think I would have stuck with my LMTV.

Lots of good advice.


Regardless of how much I might wish otherwise 75% of this rigs miles will be on paved roads. Often times towing a boat.

My goal is to optimize the rig for the majority of its use.
 

HowardH

Adventurer
Just came from the scales. Truck total weight is 10,440. Front axle was 5300 and rear was 5140.

empty truck per Ford 7965 lbs

Flatbed as built; bed, boxes, goose-neck hitch ended up at 1430 lbs.

66.5 gallons of diesel @462 lbs

Me at 215 lbs

that leaves almost 370 lbs for fluids, misc "stuff" in the cab and under deck boxes, etc. weight adds up quickly.
 
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HowardH

Adventurer
It has been suggested that due to the camper being on and off and towing a fairly heavy boat I might want to consider air bags for the rear. Anyone with experience with air bags? What do they do to rough road manners and suspension articulation? Would air bags enable me to run lighter springs and shocks - optimized more for running without the camper then relaying upon the air bags once fully loaded?
 

S2DM

Adventurer
Just came from the scales. Truck total weight is 10,440. Front axle was 5300 and rear was 5140.

empty truck per Ford 7965 lbs

Flatbed as built; bed, boxes, goose-neck hitch ended up at 1430 lbs.

66.5 gallons of diesel @462 lbs

Me at 215 lbs

that leaves almost 370 lbs for fluids, misc "stuff" in the cab and under deck boxes, etc. weight adds up quickly.

If the oppurtunity presents itself to get a weight with the flatbed and boxes off the truck, might be worth doing. We originally had one of their flatbeds that we've since taken off the truck due to other problems, it ended up being substantially heavier than we were told. If everything else works to your satisfaction, I doubt its a deal breaker, but nice to know where your weight is.
 
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S2DM

Adventurer
It has been suggested that due to the camper being on and off and towing a fairly heavy boat I might want to consider air bags for the rear. Anyone with experience with air bags? What do they do to rough road manners and suspension articulation? Would air bags enable me to run lighter springs and shocks - optimized more for running without the camper then relaying upon the air bags once fully loaded?

Are you talking about replacing the rear suspension with a kelderman style setup, or adding airbags to your current leaf spring suspension. Another option to consider might be replacing your bump stops with sumo springs. I have them on the truck I tow my boat with and they really help. They are passive, meaning you can't adjust them to the size of your load, but that can be a plus. Totally hassle free. Timbren also makes a similar style product that might be an option.

https://www.supersprings.com/
 

HowardH

Adventurer
Scott I was thinking air bags to assist leaf springs. Kelderman seems overly expensive to me. Good points on the sumo/ Timbren bump stops. These devices are new to me. Just learning about them.

Regarding the flatbed weight. I suspect their quoted weight is accurate. Im off 370 lbs. engine oil and coolant will add up. Also the ARB locker includes a two piston compressor. Not sure what it weighs. No idea how much weight the actual locker weighs. Stinger in the hitch receiver, another ten pounds.
 

java

Expedition Leader
I have helper air bags on mine. I filled them to 55psi on the last trip as the *** end was looking a little low when fully loaded. Needed to run with a full water tank.

They are the standard U bolt top the axle kit with double bellow firestone (Looks like) bags. I keep just enough air in them to keep the overloads off the perches. I'm sure they will limit travel a bit, but as you said its not a real off road truck.

Air bags are a non linear spring rate, it increases as the bags are compressed. They seem to help my truck, and I don't notice any harshness or anything from them.
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Howard have you figured out just how heavy you will be on the rear axle yet?

This might be too close for comfort for your setup, but this is where I wound up.

Recently picked up a 2011 Super duty SRW, and tossed some 285/75r18 Toyos on it.

At 80PSI they are rated at 4080lbs per tire (SRW) and measure out to nearly 35" tall, and 11.5" wide

We will be running just about 6500lbs on the rear axle with this setup once I build the bed and toss the camper on.

This particular tire setup will support that weight at just 50 PSI or so.


Again, this might be too close for your truck, but it might be worth looking into as it would be much more affordable than some sort of custom 20" wheel/tire combo

Oh, and these new super duties fit 35"s without any trouble :)

001SD.jpg
 

HowardH

Adventurer
Nice truck Kenny, congratulations.

I've no idea on weight, I'll just have to wait and see. My best guess is 15,000 lbs but I've no idea how that will play out front to rear axles.

I'm curious, have you weighed your truck as it sits?
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
How the camper is designed will play a HUGE role as to how the weight is split front to rear.

I'm sure you and the builder can sort this out, but it will take some effort.

When I built ours, the weight distribution front to rear was pretty intense.
Balancing that with the design of the box and the floor plan layout was interesting.
All the while keeping things balanced left to right.

But in the end it worked out with little compromise.
As built and on the current flatbed it places roughly 1/3 of the camper weight on the front axle of the truck, and the remaining 2/3 on the rear.



With the new tires and a full tank, the new truck scaled in at just 6800lbs.
One of the huge benefits of a gasser, is the engine weight.

The weights will really start changing once is has a flatbed, front bumper and winch, etc, etc.

The new bed will also have a small gear stowage area integrated into the headboard, so the camper weight will be shifted back some.

But that's all part of the plan, just have to work the (weight) numbers :beer::beer:
 

Darwin

Explorer
The 19.5's will probably work the best for you based on your needs, You could also just keep the duallys, there are some real benefits to a dual rear wheel truck, stability and safety being an example.

An LT tire even one rated for 4,000 lbs like IdaSho is using wouldn't be enough or leave enough safety margin with 15,000 lbs of weight.
 

Lwing

Member
Better get online looking for 19.5" rims, doesn't happen overnight, Rickson after about six tries I gave up trying to contact them.

Does bead locks offer any benefit to 19.5" wheels?
 

Mundo4x4Casa

West slope, N. Ser. Nev.
Kenny B.,
I like the way you think. Good choice on the 18's for you camper hauler. There are so many variables it's difficult to draw the line on 'built enough". A tire with a 4K plus pound load rating should do the trick. I cannot recommend any 19.5's for off road work. On highway-yes, a good choice. On deep sand or mud, not so much. The 18's seem to have enough sidewall for good low pressure running, especially if those are actual bead locks, not 'faux' bead locks.
jefe
 

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