Don't waste your money on non mppt controller...ever. If you already own a controller, get an MPPT controller as the first upgrade. MPPT will yield 10-30% more energy over non MPPT. Flat mounting modules vs angled towards the sun is worth another 10-30%.
You know more about the dynamics of that swing arm more than us. Solar panels are relatively light, but make great wind sails. My guess is the arm will support the module in little wind while stationary.
Get a charger that can be custom set to your battery and run in absorption mode for your AGM (14.6-14.8V) at full current...it will help get that thing charged much faster than those that hit float (13.8) and sit there.
Your fridge is quite large. Perhaps comparable to my setup this trip.
This trip, I am running two fridges...one freezer and one fridge. We are base camping for 8 days. Jeep only gets moved once every 3 days or so. Battery has to last completely on it's own.
Fridge is Dometic 65CFX DZ. A freezer is a Domeic CF18. From previous measurements, the 18 is an older unit and pulls 1.5x the current but only about 20% more energy than the more efficient 65liter.
I am running 200w of solar...At our campsite, we have good sun for about 3-4 hrs. Rest of the time it is in shade. Peak pwr is about 145w. Since it is a bit hot in the sun, the temp coefficient of the module is depressing the overall power output.
We're running solar panels whose MPPT is ~18v at 25C. At operating temps, the MPPT voltage drops to 15 to 16v...factor in wire loss, and you may start losing energy. ALL solar modules have a negative temp coefficient.
When I run in parallel, my pmax is 110w. In series, it hits nearly 145w. This is a combination of resistive loss and MPPT/power supply headroom issues. Most power supplies (chargers) need a couple of volts to run properly. If your charger is at 14.7v, and the module voltage is only one volt above, power/energy is lost...however it will be small.
A single 100ah battery runs both fridges and charges two phones. Resting battery voltage before solar starts charging in the morning is ~12.52- 12.57V. This equates to about a 70% charge on my battery. Charger hits 14.75V absoption and drops to 0.5A by the time the modules are in the shade.
At this site, total production each day is a paltry 400Wh in about 4hrs...but this is contingent upon my consumption.
I'm averaging 300-340Wh...or about 30ah of consumption per 24hr for two fridges. When it is just my big Dometic in much hotter temps, I will consume about 200Wh.
Here is my suggestion...get a group 31 AGM 100-110ah deep cycle. Pick your favorite brand. Sams Club is a good deal. Mount a single 100W module that is pointed at the sun. If you can get a full day, you're likely to be marginal if consumption is similar to my setup.If flat mounted, get two and put them in series.
Consider something that is easy to remote deploy if you like me and prefer to park in the shade...if you have one flat and one remote,connect in parallel. The voltage moves and order of magnitude less than current during MPPT tracking and your system will be more efficient if one module shaded.
If you have to re-charge fast, get more solar. No one ever complained about too much battery or too much solar.
No single conductor on the system be less than#12. If remote mount modules, no less than #10. Most of the time my remote modules are 50' away.
Optima batteries have been known to have quality issues and have lower capacity for a given size.
I design utility scale solar power plants for a living.
I have a bed rack with dual rotopax mounts on each side, I want to move one set to the drivers side and in its place make a plate and articulating arm to mount the 100watt rigid solar panel to it....
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