Montero Sport transmission issues, looking for advice.

[Outdooraholic]

I spent the day at the junkyard today. They had seven 2000+ Montero Sports, three of which were also 4x4. I checked the fluid, looked for leaks, and compared all three. The one I decided on was a 2000 Limited 3.5 that was wrecked in the front. We pulled the transmission and the torque converter. I'm going to get it all cleaned up, replace the filter, and installed it on my my Sport along with fresh SPIII in the near future.

 

[Offroadmuch]

Good luck bro. I admire your dedication. Funny how we all love these trucks even when they act up on us.

 

[PirateMcGee]

I spent the day at the junkyard today. They had seven 2000+ Montero Sports, three of which were also 4x4. I checked the fluid, looked for leaks, and compared all three. The one I decided on was a 2000 Limited 3.5 that was wrecked in the front. We pulled the transmission and the torque converter. I'm going to get it all cleaned up, replace the filter, and installed it on my my Sport along with fresh SPIII in the near future.

View attachment 410020

Good luck! Good time to install an aux cooler too. I mounted mine on the right side of the core support to some existing threaded holes. Easy peasy.

 

[Outdooraholic]

Good luck bro. I admire your dedication. Funny how we all love these trucks even when they act up on us.

Thanks! I did give the thought of getting rid of it and starting over some serious consideration. But in the end decided to fix it and keep it instead.

Good luck! Good time to install an aux cooler too. I mounted mine on the right side of the core support to some existing threaded holes. Easy peasy.

Thank you as well. I actually have an aux trans cooler already installed. I put it in several years ago in hopes it would help with the transmission issues.

I spent some time today cleaning the transmission. Obviously you won't be able to see it, but it will make installing it a lot easier and allow me to keep a better eye out for any leaks. I also ordered 10 qts of SPIII fluid so I can do a flush and fill once I get it installed.

 

[jeep-N-montero]

Clean parts are always easier to install, few things suck more than grimy oil soaked dirt falling in your face when working under a vehicle.

 

[RyanY]

Now would be the right time to replace any accessible seals and gaskets - the input shaft seal is far easier to replace now than after you've installed the transmission and found that it's leaking.

 

[Outdooraholic]

Now would be the right time to replace any accessible seals and gaskets - the input shaft seal is far easier to replace now than after you've installed the transmission and found that it's leaking.

I agree. I had to do some research because most parts catelogs mix up the parts for the V4A51 and A340E transmissions (mine is the V4A51). I put my vin into the Mitsubishi ASA program and got the original part numbers and then cross referenced them for the aftermarket equivalent. For the torque converter seal the original part number was MD707575 but was superseded by MR967673. That equals 320583 for National/Timken/etc. For the extension housing, MR350599 equals 224560. I'm going to order them tonight.

 

[Outdooraholic]

This weekend I dropped the transmission out of my truck, removed the old torque converter, installed the "new" torque converter, and installed the "new" transmission with a new torque converter seal. I'm expecting to get the new extension housing seal and the transmission filter tomorrow. Then reinstall the transfer case, driveshafts, fluids, and hope for the best!

From looking at the old transmission it was definitely leaking from the torque converter seal. There was fluid dripping out from the bell housing when I took the bolts out and could see it leaking from the seal area.

 

[Outdooraholic]

Ok guys, I need some help! I finished up the install yesterday. I put the fluids in the transfer case and the transmission (I only put 3 quarts in at first as it was showing at the cold mark at the dip stick). At first it was cranking over very slow, felt like the battery was dead but it was fully charged. I cleaned the battery terminals, checked the wiring at the starter, banged on the started and it cranked over normal and started. From there on it cranked perfect and started normally. I let it run for a little while and went through the gears. It didn't engage but I wasn't concerned yet. I checked the fluid again and it was low, off the dip stick. I added 2 more quarts and got it back to the cold Mark on the dip stick. I put it in reverse and it went into gear very smoothly. I backed out of the driveway and drove it around the neighborhood. It up shifted perfectly but had a couple of hiccups when it needed to down shift. However it felt pretty good. I brought it back to the house and let it idle while checking my the fluid at the hot mark now. The fluid was low, off the dip stick again. I followed the service manual and went through all the gears, leaving it in neutral to check the level. Over the next hour I added 2.5 more quarts (for a total of 7.5 quarts) until it was at the bottom hot mark. At that point it was late so I shut if off and went to bed. This morning I was going to drive it to work but it wouldn't go into gear at all. I tried for a couple of minutes. In reverse, giving it lots of throttle, it would creep backwards at a very slow roll. Then in drive, giving it lots of throttle it would creep forwards. However it felt like it wasn't in gear at all. I have no idea what the issue is and had to leave it and take a different vehicle to work. Any ideas??? I did check underneath it and there were no fluid leaks.

 

[PirateMcGee]

Did you put fluid in the torque converter before you installed it?

 

[PirateMcGee]

Also I think total capacity is around 10 qts. Driving it with 5qts even a bit may have damaged it. One thing is for sure, forcing it and revving it are ways to just cause more damage.

 

[Outdooraholic]

Did you put fluid in the torque converter before you installed it?

It still had fluid in it, but I didn't pour anymore in before installing. However I have been doing research and I installed the torque converter incorrectly. I bolted it to the flex plate first, and then slid the transmission over it. This is my first time messing with an automatic and I thought that was how it went. I now see that you are supposed to install the converter into the transmission first, aligning the shafts and pump notches. I didn't do that. However, that doesn't explain to me how it was driving and shifting last night. It the notches and shaft weren't lined up it shouldn't have moved last night, right?

Also I think total capacity is around 10 qts. Driving it with 5qts even a bit may have damaged it. One thing is for sure, forcing it and revving it are ways to just cause more damage.

I just checked the fluid on my lunch break and according to the cold Mark it was way high. That doesn't make since to me since I spent a lot of time getting it perfect last night. I drained 2.5-3 quarts out of it until the level was close to the cold Mark and tried moving it to no avail. When I put it in gear I feel it actually shift but I still won't move.

 

[PirateMcGee]

I am by no means an expert. Do you have the fsm?

 

[Outdooraholic]

I am by no means an expert. Do you have the fsm?

I do have the FSMs. It seems if the torque converter isn't fully seated it can damage the transmission fluid pump. I'm currently in the process of taking everything back off to inspect this was a very time consuming mistake... But now I know.

 

['round n' back again]

im betting pump seal, torque converter or low and behold, the potential for the shift linkage to be literally shifting the transmission ever so slightly under sustained accel. and torque twist from a heavily burdened engine and possibly worn motor mounts, enough to let fluid slip by the valve body port and you lose line pressure and gear engagement. especially this sounds likely as it performed the same diabolical trick on both transmissions.
my gen 1 has an insane contraption for the shifting linkage , but like most things mitsu , it works well.

i believe the two issues are unrelated. the leak sounds like a pump seal, or a torque converter shaft seal. or even a pump housing is cracked (unlikely).

pumps are cheap or should be, and the whole unpleasant exercise of replacement in the texas summer should take most of a saturday with hand tools.
do your rear main seal too!
do your oil pan if its droozling.
oil leaks are for kidz.


trans fluid"
ENEOS spIII works well if you have no convenient access to dealer. its available at napa . likely cheaper. likely the same fluid as eneos is an oem supplier to japanese manufacturers with the exception , i believe of Mazda.