Smittybilt Scout Trailer Reviews?

[ebrabaek]

I know that I keep flip flopping on my tire carrier design, but here is what I'm currently thinking.
Cut off and move the 2" tube that the stabilizer jacks slide into forward 2" and outward some. Add a tube above it in the pocket created between it and the bottom of the trailer. Add heavy 2" square tubing where the other tubing was with a spindle in it. Add a secondary hinge higher up on the box, bolted thru to a stiffiner plate on the inside of the box. Same 2" tubing on the opposite side for a pin to drop in to keep it closed. I'm debating on whether or not I need the upper hinge, but I feel like it'll make it much stouter. So far, I've got the lower spindle ordered from comp4x4. I need to stop designing and get this thing built, I'm hoping to run the Rubicon Trail this summer.
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I would be lying if i'd say i did not try very hard to go that route. After designing the 3x3 bumper and bolting that on to the frame, it became very clear how much faster and less intrusive that design was. Most of my design was really spend on modding the Smitty rear swing carrier. If you could solve the two main areas ( pivot, and latch) then you could fab the whole unit up in no time. As I mentioned above there are latch mechanisms you can buy, and I suppose you can fab up the pivot as well. I was road blocked when I began looking for the polyurethane round bushing that the carrier pivots around. Worth mentioning is that by making and installing a rear bumper also solves the ridonculess two rear jacks design. I see the practical and easy way to make it, but woooooa, that is a silly disfunction. Yet again I can accept why it was at that. At the price these trailers sell for, there have to be simple designs involved. The rear jack is one of them. It is important for everyone to know that I love my trailer, and my hat is off to Smitty for them to offer such a fantabolous deal. Lots of other trailer manufactures could learn from this Swiss army knife of a trailer. Well done Smitty.

 

[Wynn]

I am happy to say that the mount as I have it works beautiful. The pump primes and cycles without any problems.

Nice! Thanks for being the guinea pig.

 

[Wynn]

I'm hoping to run the Rubicon Trail this summer.
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Love it. Can't wait for pics and update.

 

[ebrabaek]

Nice! Thanks for being the guinea pig.

My pleasure...

 

[blare]

Need some advice to aid some exploratory learning on my first overlanding trailer. We just completed our 2nd trip and its appears in the near future we will be at fairly established camping sites as we figure out how to best use our gear for the family. That said I have a Dometic CFX65W on the way and I'm going back and forth on how to power it.

Problem: I looked at the Goal Zero Yeti 400 Lithium, but some reviews I saw said they won't work with the ARB 12v fridges due to the 10.8 volt output. I'm leaning toward installing a battery on the trailer and using the space allotted for the generator to tuck in a battery. Out loud thinking:

-Don't want to drill holes in the tongue box and into main box because I'm still figuring out ideal configs.
-Placement of AGM battery in generator box mitigates increasing tongue weight.
-Existing holes in interior main box mitigates permanent mods.
-Only other 12v plans are interior box lights, 1 external light off the rear for campsites, 1 12v run up to the tent for power, and possible solar charging.
-Thinking a 31 series AGM, NOCO Genius 1 bank 10A charger, and Blue Sea fuse block should be enough to get me started.

 

[RWB_Runner]

How is the tire carrier holding up? Have you noticed any stress at the welds, and wobble when it's in the stationary position or extended?
I plan on doing this design, but will add some gussets.

 

[ebrabaek]

Need some advice to aid some exploratory learning on my first overlanding trailer. We just completed our 2nd trip and its appears in the near future we will be at fairly established camping sites as we figure out how to best use our gear for the family. That said I have a Dometic CFX65W on the way and I'm going back and forth on how to power it.

Problem: I looked at the Goal Zero Yeti 400 Lithium, but some reviews I saw said they won't work with the ARB 12v fridges due to the 10.8 volt output. I'm leaning toward installing a battery on the trailer and using the space allotted for the generator to tuck in a battery. Out loud thinking:

-Don't want to drill holes in the tongue box and into main box because I'm still figuring out ideal configs.
-Placement of AGM battery in generator box mitigates increasing tongue weight.
-Existing holes in interior main box mitigates permanent mods.
-Only other 12v plans are interior box lights, 1 external light off the rear for campsites, 1 12v run up to the tent for power, and possible solar charging.
-Thinking a 31 series AGM, NOCO Genius 1 bank 10A charger, and Blue Sea fuse block should be enough to get me started.

I have not had a goal zero400 in my hands but I cants see how it would only output 10.8 volts. With either a AGM or LIpo4 cell in it, it should be the regular 13-14 volts, So I think that will work just fine.
I have the noco Genius 1 and a smaller agm cell installed. Hop back a few pages and you will see my install.
I also used a 50 watt solar. I wish I had bought a 100 watt solar, but there were a special on the 50 watt, so I am hoping that will keep me rolling. If my calculations are correct, then 4-5 days are the magical, with a 3'ish cycling amp pull of the CXF series, or equivalent.
If you have a spare tire up front, then tounghe weight is a real issue. I do not have that issue, but still elected to install a smaller battery. It sounds like your a bit apprehensive regarding drilling holes, so anywhere you wanna install it is fine, but that forward box is awesomely nice facilitating all the electricals. If you change your mind later and rips it out, just pop in a few rubber stoppers, and hole is plugged.

 

[ebrabaek]

How is the tire carrier holding up? Have you noticed any stress at the welds, and wobble when it's in the stationary position or extended?
I plan on doing this design, but will add some gussets.

I presume your asking me.....
We did not have the opportunity to roll the trailer in the wilderness last year, as it is a bit chilli here in the Colorado now. But the few street trips we tested it on, there were no issues
I have no doubts that it will hold up though. With 3 mounting points on the frame, and the middle being distributed between two frame members via the original hitch, it is solid.
I think were I to do this again, I would try the fab it 100% myself. Mind you Smitty provided the swing, and that is a bit pricy, but very nice. The latch is identified, and I looked at my local steel shop, and they had two pipes that fit snugly inside each other. My plan B was to drill and tap a zerk fitting and just plounder grease in between them and call it a day. I think I would have needed to upgrade my 115 volt mig, as my 220 ARC Hobart never looks as good as the MIG works....

 

[Midnightsun]

Need some advice to aid some exploratory learning on my first overlanding trailer. We just completed our 2nd trip and its appears in the near future we will be at fairly established camping sites as we figure out how to best use our gear for the family. That said I have a Dometic CFX65W on the way and I'm going back and forth on how to power it.

Problem: I looked at the Goal Zero Yeti 400 Lithium, but some reviews I saw said they won't work with the ARB 12v fridges due to the 10.8 volt output. I'm leaning toward installing a battery on the trailer and using the space allotted for the generator to tuck in a battery. Out loud thinking:

-Don't want to drill holes in the tongue box and into main box because I'm still figuring out ideal configs.
-Placement of AGM battery in generator box mitigates increasing tongue weight.
-Existing holes in interior main box mitigates permanent mods.
-Only other 12v plans are interior box lights, 1 external light off the rear for campsites, 1 12v run up to the tent for power, and possible solar charging.
-Thinking a 31 series AGM, NOCO Genius 1 bank 10A charger, and Blue Sea fuse block should be enough to get me started.

I put my 12v in the tounge box. I used a piece of 3/4 ply cut to size I needed for my elect pieces to be screwed to then on back of ply I used 2 inch wide velcrow and stuck it to inside of box. But I did bolt my battery rack to bottom of box I don't want it bouncing around. Little dab of silicone on holes

 

[Silverback07]

Need some advice to aid some exploratory learning on my first overlanding trailer. We just completed our 2nd trip and its appears in the near future we will be at fairly established camping sites as we figure out how to best use our gear for the family. That said I have a Dometic CFX65W on the way and I'm going back and forth on how to power it.

Problem: I looked at the Goal Zero Yeti 400 Lithium, but some reviews I saw said they won't work with the ARB 12v fridges due to the 10.8 volt output. I'm leaning toward installing a battery on the trailer and using the space allotted for the generator to tuck in a battery. Out loud thinking:

-Don't want to drill holes in the tongue box and into main box because I'm still figuring out ideal configs.
-Placement of AGM battery in generator box mitigates increasing tongue weight.
-Existing holes in interior main box mitigates permanent mods.
-Only other 12v plans are interior box lights, 1 external light off the rear for campsites, 1 12v run up to the tent for power, and possible solar charging.
-Thinking a 31 series AGM, NOCO Genius 1 bank 10A charger, and Blue Sea fuse block should be enough to get me started.

Exact same setup I used. No complaints.

 

[Tkhawk]

Mine is pretty much like Midnightsun's. Attached to plywood in the back of the tongue box. I wish I would have put my fuse box a bit higher like his though.


Finally recieved my awning and got it mounted up. I still need to add a stiffener from the hinge end to the mounting location. It looks like a pretty good product espicialy given the cost. Once, I get some use out of it I'll post a review along with my shipping/ customer service issues.



I'm getting the steel for my swing out today, I had hoped to have it built before my next trip, weekend after next, but with valentines day this week I probably won't get a chance to work on it this weekend.

 

[ebrabaek]

Mine is pretty much like Midnightsun's. Attached to plywood in the back of the tongue box. I wish I would have put my fuse box a bit higher like his though.
View attachment 435210

Finally recieved my awning and got it mounted up. I still need to add a stiffener from the hinge end to the mounting location. It looks like a pretty good product espicialy given the cost. Once, I get some use out of it I'll post a review along with my shipping/ customer service issues.
View attachment 435211
View attachment 435213

I'm getting the steel for my swing out today, I had hoped to have it built before my next trip, weekend after next, but with valentines day this week I probably won't get a chance to work on it this weekend.

I am looking forward to see your build. How far west in TX are you.?

 

[Tkhawk]

Thanks. I'm not very far west, only about 60 miles from Louisiana.

 

[ebrabaek]

Thanks. I'm not very far west, only about 60 miles from Louisiana.

I see. An epicenter for great eats...

 

[Tkhawk]

Yep, just finished of a plate of burnt end brisket boudin, where all of the ingredients are cooked on the smoker!

I was just talking with one of the guys that I'm going to run High Water Mark with next weekend and he mentioned putting me in the back in case we have to turn around so I'll hopefully have more room to turn around. That got me to thinking about building a hitch I could extend out the back of the trailer that would allow the trailer to be towed backwards in case of emergency. I got a full joint of 2" square to mount my tire swing on, so I'm thinking about cutting a length off that, that will slide into the rear receiver and extend as far forwards a possible. I think it'll be about 4 feet before it reaches the tube the swing arms mount to, there I'll add a short section of tubing the 2" will slide into to keep it from bouncing around to much. With it slid all the way forward, I'll cut it off flush with the back of the trailer. If I get into a bind I can extend it out and bolt the ball hitch on to it. I can then set it on a 2" ball and pull it backwards.