Upgraded Alluminium radiator

[kalieracer]

Hey is anyone interested in an upgraded aluminum radiator. I am planning on building up a stoker motor for my SR. So I wanted to get a bit bigger radiator built and go with electric cooling fans. I spoke with a well known MFG who is up for doing a run but would need 30 unit min. Price would be under 400 + 30-45 for drop shipping to people on the buy.
They would go in to full production if there is more interest other than a group buy. I wanted to have them add a couple NTP fittings so people could wire up a coolant sensor and coolant pressure sensor to the radiators if they wanted. I would appreciate any input from members

 

[jeep-N-montero]

A properly cleaned and flowing factory copper/brass radiator will cool better than the aluminum version with the same dimensions, you can read up on it if you wish.

 

[jeep-N-montero]

Might be curious about the stroker setup though.

 

[gwittman]

A properly cleaned and flowing factory copper/brass radiator will cool better than the aluminum version with the same dimensions, you can read up on it if you wish.

I don't know where that information comes from but I have experienced the opposite. I wanted to reduce weight on my SCCA race car and it had a three row copper radiator that was heavy. I did not have a problem with cooling but did not want the extra weight. I found a two row aluminum radiator that saved me over 20 lbs with reduced coolant capacity and overall weight. I have used it for around 20 years and find it has better cooling capacity when the air temperature is high than the larger copper radiator. The heavy copper radiator still rides in the tow truck as a backup but has never been needed.

 

[IncorpoRatedX]

Arguing aside...

A properly cleaned stock metal unit in my truck (2 row "gen 2.5" 1999) just performed quite well after a recent rodding out. Our trip recently took us from Phoenix to LA for Mitsubishi Owners Day in Cypress CA. We reached the edge of palm springs around 5pm, the worst of the days heat had soaked in and traveling the extremely wide asphalt frying pan of I10, we registered ambient temps of 124 degrees Fahrenheit. This of course was a micro climate due to the heat soaked asphalt and lowest elevation point with the most sun exposure in the area.

The montero cruised along at 70mph, AC going. We turned the AC off for the climb out of the valley because it's a good idea to do so, I didn't want to sweat it out so I cycled it on and off as we climbed the hill and the temps got just above normal. Aside from that, driving through phoenix on and given day when it's 117* out, I run the AC full blast and the temp gauge never reaches horizontal. it's always a tick or two below that, where it belongs.

 

[kalieracer]

I know the stock one is fine, but they are getting old. CSF is not making the brass units atm and they are low on stock. It is good to have another option

Arguing aside...

A properly cleaned stock metal unit in my truck (2 row "gen 2.5" 1999) just performed quite well after a recent rodding out. Our trip recently took us from Phoenix to LA for Mitsubishi Owners Day in Cypress CA. We reached the edge of palm springs around 5pm, the worst of the days heat had soaked in and traveling the extremely wide asphalt frying pan of I10, we registered ambient temps of 124 degrees Fahrenheit. This of course was a micro climate due to the heat soaked asphalt and lowest elevation point with the most sun exposure in the area.

The montero cruised along at 70mph, AC going. We turned the AC off for the climb out of the valley because it's a good idea to do so, I didn't want to sweat it out so I cycled it on and off as we climbed the hill and the temps got just above normal. Aside from that, driving through phoenix on and given day when it's 117* out, I run the AC full blast and the temp gauge never reaches horizontal. it's always a tick or two below that, where it belongs.

 

[jeep-N-montero]

Arguing aside...

A properly cleaned stock metal unit in my truck (2 row "gen 2.5" 1999) just performed quite well after a recent rodding out. Our trip recently took us from Phoenix to LA for Mitsubishi Owners Day in Cypress CA. We reached the edge of palm springs around 5pm, the worst of the days heat had soaked in and traveling the extremely wide asphalt frying pan of I10, we registered ambient temps of 124 degrees Fahrenheit. This of course was a micro climate due to the heat soaked asphalt and lowest elevation point with the most sun exposure in the area.

The montero cruised along at 70mph, AC going. We turned the AC off for the climb out of the valley because it's a good idea to do so, I didn't want to sweat it out so I cycled it on and off as we climbed the hill and the temps got just above normal. Aside from that, driving through phoenix on and given day when it's 117* out, I run the AC full blast and the temp gauge never reaches horizontal. it's always a tick or two below that, where it belongs.

The all metal factory units are copper/brass and work amazingly well, had ours cleaned out 2 years ago and upgraded the factory A/C fan at the same time, even sitting in traffic on 100+ days she stays nice and cool.

 

[evol911]

Just to throw some more info into this thread, I just had my stock copper/brass radiator recored and had it upgraded to a 3 row core. Cost me $560 at Mac's Radiator in Portland. For the standard 2 core recore it would have been around $400 or so. All the new radiators I could find were plastic tank/aluminum core junk.

Full aluminum radiator for $400 seems reasonable although my opinion is to repair/recore your original.