Rebuild Gen 3 cv axle. HELP ASAP

Offroadmuch

Explorer
So on the cage one end is slightly chamfered open a little larger than the other. See picture.
On the race one end has some notches. See picture.
I need to know which ends are up so I can reassemble.
The FSM does not refer to the areas in question and is therefor not doing me any good.
Thanks
IMG_3827.jpg
IMG_3829.jpg

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Offroadmuch

Explorer
Well I think it only goes together one way. Race with notch end up and cage with chamfer end up. Went together pretty easy. Base on angles and clearance for getting the bearings in I think this is the only way. I will hold off on final reassembly,installation until i hear from someone. Thanks
 
Last edited:

Offroadmuch

Explorer
I have to admit defeat.
.
Got them out, cleaned up really well. All back together with fresh Mitsubishi cv grease.
.
Could not get it back together. I could have taken off my lower control arm and then got the axle onto the hub assembly and then reconnected the upper and lower A arms etc... BUT at this point my patience and time was all used up. So tomorrow I will go to a local shop that specializes is cv rebuild and installation. While I am clearly not an expert at this, (obviously,) I did learn a lot. I can disassemble cv joints like a pro and put them back together. Back onto the truck, not so much.
.
I also learned that the rear axle nut is 36mm and the front is 32mm. Only after buying the one I wasn't going to use since I measured the rear when I had the wheel off.....
.
And finally, I hate the Mitsubishi FSM. It has 4 pages on how to measure the crimp on the cv boot retaining band and not one word on how to reinstall the complete axle. Maybe it is obvious that I should simply dissembled everything (EVERYTHING) on the front end as I explained earlier. I could definitely answer some questions if anyone is going to do their cv's.
 

John235

New member
The easiest way I found to remove or reinstall the front axles is to remove the axle nut, then the outer tie rod end ball joint and then the upper control arm ball joint. That way you can rotate the knuckle out of the way enough to pull the spline out. You have to support the vehicle from the crossmember, not the control arm. Should only take a few minutes to get in or out once you get the hang of it.


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Offroadmuch

Explorer
Thanks John. By the time I threw in the towel I had been working on this for a day and a half. I could have done more diss assembling but I was worried that if anything went wrong I would spend all of my days off on this thing. So Off to one of the local shops I went. $350 to clean and regrease and install on both front. Overall I am ok with it. I hate paying for things I can do but I also hate spending all of my time off wrenching so I made my choice. Thank you for the tips.
 

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