Build planning and questions

SethJ

Observer
I am planning to build an expo camping trailer within the next few months and have been lurking through the many builds on the site for a while gathering designs, materials, and etc. but still clueless in some areas of how I want to build the trailer. My plan is to build a Hiker trailer style trailer. The tow truck is a 2011 Tacoma 4wd 3" lift and it will be used mostly in state parks. I have no intentions of taking it down any trails but it will most likely see some dirt. So far I have some dimensions and material usage in mind and a sketch.

Goals I'm hoping to achieve in the build:
1. I will be building on a budget so I'm trying to keep the cost as low as possible. Aiming for 4-5k for the basic trailer and lights, water, and kitchen. I know there are tons of other upgrades and little things that will add on slowly afterwards So I'm hoping that budget will get me to a campable trailer with lights, water, and a basic kitchen setup.
2. Steel framed body skinned with aluminum sheet metal (no wood sides or structure). Many of the builds I have seen are using wood structure and plywood walls, I am hoping to avoid this mostly to avoid wood rot and the sealing and paint prep that is involved in building with wood. Building the frame and body structure will be no hassle since I have a welder and have the skills to use it but the aluminum skin is what I am uncertain of. What thickness am I looking for and how should I attach it (rivets, bolts or self tapping screws)?
3. Shore power, water hookups and possibly gray water tank; like I stated above, the trailer will be at parks with water and electricity for the majority of the time so hookups is a priority and since I don't want to have the water I use in the trailer dump on the ground a gray tank may be on the list.
4. Access to the galley from the sleeping area. Many of the trailers I have seen have the galley separated from the sleeping area requiring you to go outside to access it so I would like to have the trailer open all the way through.
5. Instead of the usual hatch I prefer the idea of barn doors because they would be simpler to build and also can provide fold down counter space. I'm hoping I can find pre- fabricated doors, possibly use some from a truck cap. Any suggestions on that would be appreciated.

I based my design off of a few other builds and could use some suggestions on the frame structure.
Tongue length: is a 5 foot tongue too long?
Axle placement: I know you want to have a 60/40 weight distribution so what is the best way to determine where to place the axle?
Also where is the cheapest place to find doors and windows? They seem to be one of the more expensive components of the trailer so any insight on where to get them cheapest would be greatly appreciated.
 
What kind of drawbar eye are you using ? Are you going with a MaxCoupler or Lock-n-Roll ? If so make you inner tube 253 x 253 x .238 wall square seamless . Makes it a 2" receiver then and if you run it all the way to the back you will have a rear receiver to put a bike carrier :)
 

SethJ

Observer
What kind of drawbar eye are you using ? Are you going with a MaxCoupler or Lock-n-Roll ? If so make you inner tube 253 x 253 x .238 wall square seamless . Makes it a 2" receiver then and if you run it all the way to the back you will have a rear receiver to put a bike carrier :)
Thanks, that was kind of the idea I had in mind.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 

Albatross

Member
Galley inside, was also a sine qua non for me (bad weather conditions). Be sure you have the right height inside, to be able to sit inside and make your coffee/tea without tilting your head.
 

kzam

Observer
Are you going to have interior walls or a layer of insulation? If you just have a single wall and exposed frame ribs inside, you wouldn't have to worry about any condensation forming but it also might not be as comfortable to sleep in if it's too hot or cold outside.

I used a Mighty Mini by Progressive Dynamics to handle my electrical and charging. It's a combination battery charger and AC and DC electrical panel. My dome lights and Fantastic Vent run on DC from a marine battery. When I have shore power, I have an AC outlet for charging a laptop/cellphone/whatever. Buy from a reputable dealer, supposedly there are some fakes on the market.

I bought my lights and fan from etrailer.com.

Challenger Door can make you doors to your specifications. I looked around a lot and their prices were the best.

Teardrop Trailer Parts has good prices on windows: http://www.teardroptrailerparts.com/.
 

SethJ

Observer
For the suspension and axles I will be using a 3500lb axle, electric brakes, and 3500lb springs that I have left over from modding a low boy. The axles were bent (reason for removal from old trailer) and too long but that will be fixed. The tires are going to match the truck in size (33") but will not be off road tires to keep the cost low. Wheels will probably be regular affordable steel wheels rather than trying to match the truck with the expensive TRD wheels.
 

kzam

Observer
If your interior walls are aluminum, condensation might still occur but isn't a concern unless it gets your bedding a little damp.

Running a fan at night will help expell air to keep the moisture from your breath from condensing on the interior walls. Insulation will also help offset any temperature difference between inside air and outside air and reduce the condensation that does form.
 

SethJ

Observer
Where is everyone buying their water tanks? I've decided I'll ditch the gray tank idea and run a water hose to a ditch or away from the campsite. That makes more room for a bigger water tank. A 30 gallon tank is what I'm aiming for, and trying to get one that is as slim as possible to keep it tucked up into the frame. I have found one at a site called plastic-mart for $265. What is the average price for one?
 

LikeABoss

Observer
I bought a 21 gallon tank for $40 on eBay. Plus $20 shipping. They have every possible size and shape. Mine is 8" thick.
 

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