Diesel Disco II conversion

polksfinest

Observer
Hello guys here is the start of my 6.2 diesel conversion to one of my disco II I have done one to a disco I thanks to REDROVER here on the forum but I hated the fact that there was a ton of lights on the dash and it did not have ac and at the time I lived in FL and it was a must not to mention that the rust on that one was bad so I yanked the motor and decided to rebuild it and throw it in a disco that I had with a bad motor but this time I was going to make everything work. I had another 6.2 laying around so I used it as a mock up motor while I was rebuilding the one I was going to use
So here is a list of what I am starting with
03 Disco II with old man emu 3inch lift and 33 on steelies
6.2 with 18:1 malhe ceramic coated pistons
Fluiddamper
Delta cam
ARP head studs with multi layer steel head gaskets
Pete Jackson gear drive
new casting 6.5 heads
military grade fuel pump with harden elements
p38 torque converter reworked for lower stall and front have of the p38 transmission (Dave from Ashcroft recommended this to handle the power and the p38 have the biggest converter)

This is what I plan to accomplish
6.2 turbo diesel
using the factor sensors for the water temp, oil pressure, throttle position sensor
Working ac using a Chevy ac compressor and the rest would be land rover
Using a square wave tach signal and convert it to the amplitude modulated pulse that the land rover ecm needs to be happy
Use dummy loads for the rest of the electrical components like injectors
200 amp alternator
dual batteries that will have to be relocated
hook up the existing snorkel

here are a few pics of the rebuild
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polksfinest

Observer
here are some more pics of the rebuild
 

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polksfinest

Observer
I started working on the bell housing adapter I originally went this route because I was going to make a custom flywheel that had the land rover tone ring cut into the back side which would solve my biggest issue with the land rover ecm. I would only have to fake the cam sensor at that point. I started making it out of a giant piece of steel that was 1 1/2 inch's thick, I mounted it in the lathe and got to turning 8 hours latter I moved it to the rotary table on the mill to start drilling the holes every 3 degrees. A while into making this it hit me that I had not even measure to see if the land rover crank position sensor would fit, well guess what it doesn't ******K. I would have to get a remote mount oil filter like they use on the HMMWV but I did not want to use the motor mounts that are required with this remote mount filter base. so I laid it to the side and finished working on the adapter plate since I already had it half way done here are a few pics
 

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proper4wd

Expedition Leader
Will be very interested to see how you spoof the rest of the injection system like MAF and O2s

It's not just spoofing so there's no lights, the transmission ECU relies on load tables etc from engine management to shift properly.
 

polksfinest

Observer
For the MAF and the 02 I have logged the return voltage levels from one of my other disco's and plan on storing these values into a matrix that I will be able to replay back to the ecm based on real inputs from the motor I may even try and use a diesel MAF and just swap values. I have been testing a few of the signals like the cam and crank sensors on the bench with a signal generator and the tach moves and no check engine light comes on. If it does not work I plan to just have the CANBUS messages intercepted and changed via a ardino or raspberry pi. It was my understanding that the tcm only looked at a few inputs like throttle ,engine speed and temp is there more? thanks
 

stevenmd

Expedition Leader
The skills of my fellow ExPo members never ceases to amaze me! I couldn't even begin to do something like this. Very cool.
 

polksfinest

Observer
So I got the motor pulled and the new one set in to see how it fits I had my little helper help me get the old motor out and the new one set in we got a little side tracked and he wanted to work on his dirt bike. Sorry for the turned pictures I don't know how to rotate them
 

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polksfinest

Observer
Here are a few of the pics of the motor sitting in the truck, the lift I am using barely clears the giant HMMWV oil pan(which I may have to change do to front axle clearnce. The adapter plate pushes the motor to far forward and the power steering pump is sitting on the steering box so I am going to have to re think this a little bit I have an adapter plate that REDROVER gave me a few years back so I might try and use that if I can slide the motor back about 3.5 then I think I can leave the power steering in the stock location also if I can slide it back then I also don't need a body lift which I do not want to have as I hate them but if I have to then I have to. Does anybody have pics of a DII with a body lift ? how does it drive? Also could some one tell me how to rotate the pictures
 

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getlost4x4

Expedition Leader
Make sure you run atleast a 3" exhaust system on it. It really helps it run better. I like mine a lot. I dump a little motor oil in the tank every fill up.

Torque off road is awesome. I get about 1 month out of a tank depending on how much I drive it. That's 18 gallons in my LWB Classic.

I used the 700R4 Behind mine. I don't know if the stock rover transmission can handle the torque of this motor.
 

polksfinest

Observer
I planned to run 3 down pipe and then go to 3.5 with a good muffler I had the same motor in a D1 and I loved it used the hp22 transmission which did ok but it shifted weird the hp24 is supposed to handle at least 300 fl-lbs of torque I think that this trans will be fine because I am having the stall lowered which I did not do to the DI how cool does yours run and what size radiator are you running
 

getlost4x4

Expedition Leader
Mine runs really good. I’ve been up to 80 with it on the interstate. It chugs a long great with the stock gearing and 235/85/16s. The combo seems to be perfect with the motor, trans and t-case combo I have.

I’m also running a serpentine belt set up. It works really well with my 140 amp alternator and the serpentine belt water pump also keeps it cooling much better.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

getlost4x4

Expedition Leader
Where did you get your radiator and what are its dimensions
I think on eBay. It's for an early 70s blazer. It's all aluminum and 3 core. It does a pretty good job of cooling. It keeps it around 190 degrees at all times. I may get a cooler thermostat next summer. But it seems to be doing well.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

polksfinest

Observer
So I ended up pulling the motor back out and starting over. The motor fit good but the hood would not close and the radiator would not fit with the electric fans on, the adapter just pushes the motor to far forward for my liking not to mention the spacer I would have to run between the flywheel and torque converter. I decided to make an adapter like the one I used in the DI I had this motor in but try and move the motor back as far as possible. The adapter adapts a 4l60E bell housing to the land rover hp24 trans. Getting it all lined up was pretty easy because they both have circles that center up the bell housing, The last one I had was made from an aluminum plate that was 3/4 thick and machined in one piece this one is two piece and made of steel
the centering circle on the hp24 pump centers both pieces and the top layer centers the 4l60E bell-housing

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I will say this I did not know that the land rover trans was tilted so much I had a spare one on the ground during all of the mock up and I thought I had it sitting right in my jig but after I installed it on the one in the rover it was tilted way to much and I had to re drill the mounting holes for the Chevy bell housing twice to get it right (I didn't really get it perfect but I would have had to remake the adapter again to get it right)

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As you can see the torque converter was protruding past the bell housing and that is not going to work so I figured now was the time to go ahead and modify it so I could send it of to get the stall lowered.

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because the snout of the converter was to long I cut it down, I also cut off the mounting cone to give me some room to take measurements for how thick the stand-offs need to be. I chucked it up into the lathe and cut it off and also made an adapter to allow the the converter's snout to fit the pilot of the crank I made it longer than it needed to be so I could cut it down to size

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