Charger Reccomendation for AGM Battery

[The Artisan]

DHW thanks you seem to have great grasp on setups. So I pose this question. If I decide to setup down the road for more offshore power I would go with 2 of these.
https://www.ebay.com/i/262333679871?chn=ps&dispItem=1
So this would be 12v at 1000 hours. What would be a good charger for this setup? Would you add solar as well since the bank is so large? 1000watt solar 24v?
Kevin

 

[jkonbelay]

Any chance you are interested in an IP68-rated onboard charger? If so, you might want to consider the Noco Gen2, which is a two-bank charger with 10A per bank and rated to charge two 230Ah batteries. Yes, it's a bit light for a 200+ Ah battery, but the IP rating and onboard install might be worth the hit in performance. I have the smaller Noco Genius GenM2 and I use it to charge both of my Odyssey PC1500 Group 34M batteries (68Ah).

My only complaint is that the unit emits a decent amount of EMI that I can hear on CB and HF ham bands (VHF/UHF is fine) while charging. This can be mitigated with chokes and such.

 

[dwh]

DHW thanks you seem to have great grasp on setups. So I pose this question. If I decide to setup down the road for more offshore power I would go with 2 of these.
https://www.ebay.com/i/262333679871?chn=ps&dispItem=1
So this would be 12v at 1000 hours. What would be a good charger for this setup? Would you add solar as well since the bank is so large? 1000watt solar 24v?
Kevin

Good god...

Well, it's not lead acid, so you'll want something programmable. And a pair of those can probably accept up to 500a of charge current (@24v).

A United States Navy vest pocket nuclear reactor from a carrier or missle sub should do the trick.

When you say "offshore", do you actually mean offshore? Or did you mean "off-grid"?

Because offshore (boat) you'll never have room to install enough solar. Off-grid you could.

Also, that battery is wired 24v, I doubt you can rig it to be 12v. So you'll need a voltage converter to feed 12v stuff.

I'd probably wire them in series at 48v, and be looking for the biggest forklift or golf cart charger I could find.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Those Tesla modules are wired 6 series, 74 parallel using 18650 cells. That means nominal 21.6V (3.6V/cell) and 251.6 A-hr, assuming they are truly Panasonic 3400 mA-hr NCR18650B. I'd expect more like 3.2A-hr max from the batteries but you'd have to test them to know.

A 18650B is usually charged at a max rate of about 0.5C, but would have to be verified on a datasheet for the actual cell. That would equate to a 25.2V (4.2V per cell), 125A charger for each module. And to do this you'd want to make sure you utilize the cooling tubes that Tesla builds in.

For a pair, you could do as dwh suggests and use a 50.4V/125A charger. This is a pared down way that Tesla does it. I believe they stack some number, probably 18 I assume, to get their rated 375V (I thought) battery voltage. They may do some combination of series and parallel of the modules, though, I don't actually know the specifics of Tesla cars. Their topology is probably flexible to accommodate the various sources and the ability to run single or dual chargers. I'd wonder what the module circuit board does, whether it's autonomous or needs marching orders.

 

[The Artisan]

DWH, yeah sorry stupid phone off grid. So 100amp hour from Genset seems better than 60max out of a solar setup. Not saying I will do this but like a good idea on how to set it up if I did. Thanks
Kevin

 

[The Artisan]

Thanks Dave I was going to reach out to the battery builder and get their thoughts..
Kevin

 

[nixid]

What do you use to connect the IOTA charger to the battery? Could I cut off the clamps on one end of 4 gauge jumper cables?

 

[john61ct]

A quality AGM like that at 200+ AH will want 60A for good longevity, ideally 80+A.

Some mfg won't admit it, but .4C is a good baseline, Odyssey now states that as **minimum**.

If you want really low CAR (why would you?) then stick to FLA, happy at .15-.2C.

 

[dwh]

What do you use to connect the IOTA charger to the battery? Could I cut off the clamps on one end of 4 gauge jumper cables?

You could. Shorter wire is better, so just cut as much as you need.

 

[DaveInDenver]

What do you use to connect the IOTA charger to the battery? Could I cut off the clamps on one end of 4 gauge jumper cables?

Buying jumper cables is a way to get relatively large gauge wire quick. Wal-Mart has cheap 4 and 6 gauge that aren't great jumper cables but it gets you some cable fast.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Be aware with this. Alot of cheap jumpercables are copper plated aluminum conductors.
Often abbreviated "CCA". A deceptive/confusing labeling scheme.
Not a total fail mind you, the stuff does pass current, at lower capacity than copper and usually flexible, but not for long.

Very true statement, the insulation quality isn't great or even uniform either. I have seen some high quality jumper cables out there but they aren't the $10 ones. My experience is that none of cable and wire at most auto stores and Wal-Marts is generally high quality anyway. Just suggesting a way to get your hands on larger than those 10AWG blister packs locally and quickly. Your best bet for local cable is welding shops but they aren't everywhere and have shorter hours.

 

[nixid]

Dave what do you use to connect to your Iota?

 

[dwh]

Depends if it's a permanent install or not. For a permanent install, I'd go with quality wire.

For something not permanently installed, cutting the clamps off one end of a set of jumper cables, sticking the cut ends into the terminals of the Iota and then just clamping the other end to a battery would work fine as a knockaround "benchtop" type charger (as long as the wire was large enough, of course).


In that situation, I'd be more worried about running a good-sized Iota from a cheesy extension cord. IIRC, they can operate down to 90v on the input, but still...

 

[DaveInDenver]

Dave what do you use to connect to your Iota?

Me 'Dave'? I do have an Iota DLS-45/IQ4 anyway. I run 10 AWG bonded UL1007 we had a spool of at work. It's 300V, -40-to+80C PVC, manufacturer unknown. It's not super flexible due to the insulation but it's a very high strand count.

FWIW my Iota is rated 750W in, 600W continuous out over 108V-to-132V. The DLS-90 (assuming you'd want this for your 215A-hr battery) is rated for 1200W continuous output which means if you extrapolate Iota has a minimum 80% efficiency and thus would require 1500W. So that would be cutting it close on a standard 15A household circuit which would deliver 1620W at 108V should it dip that much (perhaps in the case of a generator).

 

[emtmark]

I picked up one of these today for my deka intimidator group 35 I think. How much do I regret it?

https://m.harborfreight.com/2815-am...r-63299.html?utm_referrer=direct/not provided


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