a few LS install questions

zimm

Expedition Leader
1. i think most 5.3/4.8 ls's have the AC pump down low. does this clear, or does it require a bracket to move it up? us the GM pump or the converted toyota i have now? gotta keep the AC.

2. my FI ecu on the 2f takes the input from the AC on, and raises the idle. is this needed?

3. my FI on the 2f doesnt need a speed sensor, no stalling or oddball ****. does the LS need one? if so will a sensor that goes between the speedo and transmission work?

4. any experience/recommendation on a vendor ECU/wiring harness for best results?




truck will have a ranger OD added to the h55f/toybox/2.3 case.


thanks for any input
 
1- it depends on the engine you get. I find that truck engines are easier to fit, but then Stan at Hardline Fab uses car based engine in his swaps. I use truck engines and the A/C compressor fits fine down low (in FJ60). I also use the large GM PS pump, but sometimes the return line hits the steering box. The current build I am using a modified GM pump can and a remote Toyota reservoir. Problem solved.

2- Idle up isn't absolutely required, btu I might recommend deleting the Toyota A/C electronics in favor of the built-into-ECU GM A/C controller. The Toyota system works fine, but if the amplifier ever goes bad, good luck finding a new one.

3- Speed sensors are a topic of debate. Some people say you don't need them, and they are right, if you're using a dumbed down ECU. I like to use them as they help make adjustments to the fuel/spark curve, making them drive more like the factory intended. If you're wondering how to get a VSS onto your LC transfer case, there's a guy I use that makes a custom Toyota LC output shaft VSS unit. It's pretty slick. email me for more details - stoffregenmotorsports@gmail.com

4- Have someone like Tilden Motorsports build you a wiring harness. They only cost about $700, and that's with a reflashed ECU. The wiring comes back all labelled and stupid simple to install.

If you like, check out my two LS Swap threads here on ExPo, or check out Hardline Fab. He also has a number of build threads here on ExPo.
 

zimm

Expedition Leader
thanks for your input!

frankly this isnt going to be an OEM quality conversion, more of a "i'll do what need's done" conversion. i dont expect "ohhh's and ahhhh's" at the finished product, just the ability to climb rt 40 without being passed by 15yo hyundais.

the previously owned/unused ranger/bell/clutchparts just showed up.

i need engine mounts. are the AA LS mounts satisfactory?

i have a 2" body lift with 2" spring lift, so i can technically do a 2" driveling lift if need be. its added work, that id consider IF theres any reason you would think it would simplify something? otherwise, i dont see the point.
 

NCFJ

Adventurer
Zimm

There are simply too many ways that a swap can be done to cover it all here. You did not even mention what truck you plan to swap in you OP. I have used pull out 5.3L truck motors, Crate 5.3L truck motors and crate LS3. I have not had two swaps go together the same yet. Hell, the starter recommended by GM Performance for their own crate 5.3L (no longer available) does not fit.

You will hear three different answers for every question you ask. My recommendation is to head on over to MUD and start researching swaps, all swaps. Write down questions that come up during your research. I have found a great many answers to my questions away from the Cruiser forums. Odds are there is a guy on a Camaro or Tri 5 forum that has the answer to your question. I can tell you that I spent countless hours, think over 100 most likely, researching all kinds of LS/Vortec swaps before I did my first swap.

Avoid hacks at all costs! Hacks are refered to as hacks for a reason. Build with maintenance of the vehicle in mind. The more "custom" parts you come up with, the harder it will be to maintain. Stock, off the shelf parts are best unless your intent is custom one off. My favorite is the amount of hacks people go through to keep the stock gauges. They were vague when they were new. It is not hard to mount new, modern gauges if you take your time and think about it a bit.

Fuel system and cooling are your primary focus in regard to sub systems. Do not skimp on these systems. I have read about more cooling issues with these swaps than any other one item. I've done both mechanical and electric fans and my preference is the mechanical. A good radiator and fan shroud are important.
 

zimm

Expedition Leader
yea, ive been over there.

i did a 350 into a 40 once, which was simple. this one is a 60, i didnt realize i didnt mention it.

the transmission is staying in place, and i'm adding the ranger od unit, with chevy bell housing.

i'm done doing **** like this myself, so i'm just project managing my mechanic, and i was trying to have key bits upfront, so its less of a start/stop routine.

as such, if the ac needed moved, i wanted the bracket on hand. i wanted a workable exhaust design so i have the proper dump on the headders and y pipe handy during the initial fit. same with the oil pan and fan shroud (think i found a reasonable summit units)

theres a fella 1/2 block up thats a crotchety exhaust master, and an AC shop up from there. that will get me wheeling. the rest i can tinker with.

i was debating on just putting autometer gauges on the dash, and turning the normal gauge area into a storage pocket/charging station/gps area. i find im more interested in my gps than anything else. i could get real simple and use one of those new fangled obd2 guages. anyone ever use one of those systems?

the one thing i want to function normal is the AC button.
 
A/C is important. The Toyota's A/C electrical system is really very antiquated, but if it works already, then keeping it working is simply a matter of wiring a relay to fire the compressor. If it doesn't work, that's when I would consider using the GM computer to fire the system. And even then, you'd still be able to use the original button.
 

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