102" antenna whip on the roof rack of my discovery 2?

jeegro

Adventurer
This is for a Cobra 75WXST. Trucks body is aluminum. I originally picked up the Firestik 3' w/ side mount ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TFRGE1I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) but after playing with where it could go... the only spot that works is just above the rear bumper. The antenna barely goes above the roof at that point.

After researching more options, I think the 102" whip is a good way to go, mounted to either the rack or body, with a tie down mounted to the front of the roof rack.

Tie down: https://www.amazon.com/Kalibur-K101...=1504452967&sr=8-3&keywords=102"+antenna+whip
Whip: https://www.amazon.com/HUSTLER-IC56...=1504452967&sr=8-1&keywords=102"+antenna+whip
Mount: https://www.amazon.com/ProComm-JBC9...rd_wg=CPWKE&psc=1&refRID=R1SRAVQ96BVRQJKGTGVS

the mount could go in the upper rear side of the body, with the tie down mounted to the front side of the roof rack.

I like the idea of tying the antenna down when not in use as opposed to removing it, so I think the longer flexible whip gives me the best of both worlds rather than a rock-hard 3-5' firestik.

Thoughts? Thanks.
 

NatersXJ6

Explorer
Buy 2 of them. I suspect you will end up replacing it frequently.

I did something similar with one of my rigs, can't remember which right now. All I remember was horrible static out of the radio that couldnt be squelched every time the antenna swung far enough to hit the body. On the trail, this was constant. I'm sure I had other things wrong, because as a kid I really didn't take time to know or learn the right way to do things.

currently, I have and like the fire stick because it is stiff enough not to swing and hit anything while driving. in the past I've had some sort of stiff graphite antenna that was super flexible, you could bend it in a circle like a fishing rod, but worked nicely, and trees wouldn't take it off.
 

Klierslc

Explorer
You can use the old tennis ball trick to keep it from contacting the body. Adding a spring might allow use of the fire stick up top..
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
On our club runs it's suggested to not run full length CB whips and unless they are tied down it's prohibited. They can be hazards to bystanders, getting smacked by one really hurts, and they can easily break windows. My $0.02 is the difference in performance isn't worth the PITA they are. I run a Larsen NMO27, which works about as well as anything is a light whip that's not too long.
 

Umbrarian

Observer
Mobile CB performance is never good. Put a Firestick on it and be done. If you want to talk further out than the folks in your group go ARS.
 

jeegro

Adventurer
Got it. I think what I'm hung up on about the firestik is the plastic molded side mount is not good for my vehicle unless I mount it way low. So as far as mounts are concerned, I'm thinking the ball mount is still best because its 1) through hole (don't have to bother drilling for a cable gland), and 2) can swivel/adjust to accommodate slanted surfaces

Or I mount to the t-slot on my Front runner rack and drill a cable gland - any mount recommendations for this?

A HAM and/or GMRS will also be in my future. Anything I should know or plan for when doing the CB antenna now? Like a dual antenna mount?

Dave, I like the NMO Larsen, but I don't have a good horizontal surface up high
 

jeegro

Adventurer
On second thought... leaning towards mounting them on the rack here: (the two black screws parallel to the ground, below the water tank) and using a double-wire gland drilled in the roof to accommodate CB and HAM.

IMG_1469.jpg

Questions;
- is this a good spot?
- what about grounding? The rack mounts in the plastic gutters. I have a grounded bus bar on the opposite side of the rack (4 feet), that feeds to a circuit panel in the cargo area via ~ 4 ft of two AWG 12 wires. Could this be used? I guess I could also drill a hole in the roof and the rack, and run a grounding braid, but in that case I may lean towards an (inferior) NGP antenna (how does NGP factor into HAM?)
- What's a good mount? I think I will need an L-bracket of some kind, a stud, and a spring
- Can a Ham antenna go right next to the CB?

Note to self: start researching HAM antennas and do it all in one go.
 
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sonoronos

Usually broken down on the side of the road
On second thought... leaning towards mounting them on the rack here: (the two black screws parallel to the ground, below the water tank) and using a double-wire gland drilled in the roof to accommodate CB and HAM.

Don't drill your roof, man. Why be so extreme? Nobody but a keyboard-wheeler is going to reward you for that behavior and who cares about them? They're nobodies. Cable is cheap and loss is minimal in car-length runs. Put it through an existing grommet/hole and save yourself problems!!

- is this a good spot?
Better than most of the other spots. Maybe worse than others, but honestly, it doesn't really matter.

- what about grounding?
Just run a 12-14 gauge wire from the rack to your frame ground. No need to get too crazy. This isn't rocket science. Just make sure there's electrical continuity between the antenna ground and your ground strap. Anodizing doesn't really conduct well.

I guess I could also drill a hole in the roof and the rack
Don't abuse your roof, man. Just don't. Nobody will reward you for this behavior.

in that case I may lean towards an (inferior) NGP antenna (how does NGP factor into HAM?)
NGP antennas are not inferior. Inferior to what? They issue is that they are not really "NGP", they are actually "reduced ground plane" base loads. So putting the bases near metal usually helps SWR. I almost always recommend buying NGP or base-loaded antennas by default on vehicles. I mean, why the ****** not, eh??

What's a good mount? I think I will need an L-bracket of some kind, a stud, and a spring
Anything that will mount your antenna to the rack and provide some electrical path.

Can a Ham antenna go right next to the CB?
Depending on the power and the output filtering on the HAM and CB. Depends on the frequencies. Depends on the separation. What frequency is your HAM? If it's 2m or 70cm, separation by quarter-wavelength sounds like a good place to start. If you're on HF running 10m, then you might as well place them as far apart as possible. Same with 20m, 40m, or 80m or whatever. You could Mag Loop or something, I dunno.

While there's no problem with having the antennas ********** together occasionally, transmitting on one while receiving on the other while the antennas are touching is probably going to cause problems.

So just separate them as much as possible. Simple.
 

jeegro

Adventurer
I think your opinion on drilling the roof is a little extreme. What's the big deal? I've already drilled it twice. I've drilled the firewall at least 6 times. Drilled behind the tail lights, the floor. It's all good! I have a 17 year old truck and I'm never going to sell it. If I had one of those magical grommets you mentioned, I'd use it.

Anyway as mentioned in my other thread I've abandoned the 102" whip idea. I think I'm all set.

Thanks for the other info. I'm going to go ahead and drill 8 holes in the rack to mount the brackets, strip the powder coat, then drill the roof for a 2 wire cord gland (haha), then crimp the coaxials once inside the vehicle
 

akpostal

Adventurer
I ran a 102" CB whip on 2 Blazers and my Postal Jeep. I ran them on the top on my 81 Blazer and Postal using ball mounts, but honestly they worked better on the side of both with the ball mounts.

Ive skipped to OR and Australia with the side mounts, without a boost or amp from Alaska. Plus tying them down with the side mount is easier.

Ill be putting one on the front of my JK soon on the Retrofit Offroad Side Mount. for daily use. Ill probably use a 4' fiberglass and spring for trail use. The side mount and the hood should have a good plane and get me pretty good range.

Its not like I dont have or would install an amp.
 
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