Storage boxes

Superduty

Adventurer
I am looking for a storage box that measures a max of L34 x W14.25 x H18. The closer to these dimensions the better, so I don't have too much wasted space.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks
 

NatersXJ6

Explorer
Make one custom? What to hold? Water tight? Impact resistant? Preferred material? Where is it going to be used?
 

Superduty

Adventurer
Make one custom? What to hold? Water tight? Impact resistant? Preferred material? Where is it going to be used?
It's just going to be used for packing stuff for trips. Dry goods and maybe non refrigerated foods.

Water resistant is good, but it will be inside, so water proof not needed.

It should be able to sustain some impact. Similar to the Plano sportsman trunks.

Preferred material would be some sort of lightweight strong plastic. But obviously I can't make one of those. Plastic is nice also bc if there is anything metal inside it doesn't make noise when it clanks around.

I suppose I could have one made from aluminum. I think steel would be too heavy. Unfortunately, I'm not set up to weld aluminum. I think wood will be too heavy.

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NatersXJ6

Explorer
I made my chuck box out of 3/8" Baltic birch plywood. I'm pretty sure the dimensions you listed would come out of 1 $30 sheet, and you would be surprised at how light it is. Lots of physical work involved, but you might be happy with the outcome and you get exactly the dimensions you need.

I never weighed my box, but I chose that material because it is lighter per square foot than 1/8" aluminum plate. IIRC it is about 14 ounces per square foot. Add a few ounces for chest handles, hinges, and hardware.

Good luck with the search!
 

Superduty

Adventurer
I made my chuck box out of 3/8" Baltic birch plywood. I'm pretty sure the dimensions you listed would come out of 1 $30 sheet, and you would be surprised at how light it is. Lots of physical work involved, but you might be happy with the outcome and you get exactly the dimensions you need.

I never weighed my box, but I chose that material because it is lighter per square foot than 1/8" aluminum plate. IIRC it is about 14 ounces per square foot. Add a few ounces for chest handles, hinges, and hardware.

Good luck with the search!
Hmm, 3/8" birch. I have a table saw!

Can you send me a few pics of the box you built. You have piqued my interest.

I'll PM you me email.

Thanks

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Herbie

Rendezvous Conspirator
At those dimensions, you're also in "footlocker" territory. Check milsurp and back-to-school sales..
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
Birch build would be easy.
For best strength, cut the bottom so it is trapped by the sides. Apply the long sides to the bottom. Then size the ends to overlap the bottom and sides. That puts all your fasteners so the weight / gravity works on them in a shear, instead of trying to pull them out of their holes.
Glue and brad nail the sides, then go back and countersink and screw all the joints. Wipe the excess glue out of the inside joints. To reinforce it you can glue in strips of material inside on the joints. That will greatly strengthen the joints without taking a lot of space and allow you to make the box out of thinner plywood.


I did a similar box a while back as a transport case for my telescope, thin ply.

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Sturdy enough and this way you can custom max-size your container.


eta given the size of the box you want, the stuff you want to put in it, you might consider building a chuck box, the sort that nestles inside it's own base stand.
 

Superduty

Adventurer
Rayra, do you think 3/8 will suffice?

I have a dado that I'd like to useuse. So I'm thinking of finger joint the corners. What size fingers do you recommend?

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rayra

Expedition Leader
3/8" is plenty. I built that telescope crate out of 1/4". I don't think fingerjointing that thin plywood is going to work well. More likely to shred it. If you're clever and stack all the pieces and clamp them together and maybe even add some sacrificial layers on both side of the stack, you might be able to dado things without a lot of tear out. You'll have to size the dado pattern and flip / alternate the panels so your fingerjointing will work out.

If I was doing it I'd just glue and brad the joints and glue in a 3/4"x3/4" strip of plank wood inside all the joints and screw all the panels into that. Lot easier than finger jointing.
 

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