Next truck, 4 different options...

Ducky's Dad

Explorer
Any thoughts on instead of going PW, just buy the run of the mill 4x4 6.4L Hemi? Priced out those are only 31-32k. The extreme price difference allows for a lot of modifications... Thoughts?
The PW option package is a real bargain compared to doing it yourself on a new truck. If the PW body configuration meets your needs, that would be the smarter way to go from a purely financial standpoint. But, if you buy a non-PW Ram, you have the option to order a MegaCab or a long bed or a 3500, or some combination of those that might meet your needs better. A non-PW Ram will not give you the articulation of the PW, but will give you a bit more payload in stock trim, or a lot more on a 3500. My PW is a 3G 5.7 automatic, and I love it. Mine weighs about 8500# ready to go, and I felt I needed a little more power in the mountains, so I added a mild 87 octane tune, plus catback exhaust and CAI, and now it is fine. The 6.4 or even a newer 5.7 with 40 more hp would eliminate my old issue, so I'd vote for the 6.4. Diesels are nice, but very heavy, so not as good in soft stuff (sand, snow, mud) as a Hemi. If you feel the need for an aftermarket front bumper and winch mount, I'd still lean toward Aluminess to keep weight off the front end. Definitely talk with Thuren and Carli before you start any suspension mods, and I have also found KORE to be very helpful, even though they are mostly a desert race shop. You will probably want on-board air, so check with ARB to be sure they have lockers available for the axles that will come on your truck. The PW electro-magnetic lockers work fine, but they can be tricky to engage after you are stuck, so I'd chose ARB if I had that choice. And retro-fitting PW lockers to another truck will be mega expensive. I don't think you can fit a smart bar (electro disconnecting front sway bar) to the regular 2500/3500 because the bar's brain is tied into the truck's computer. Plan on a battery upgrade to a Grp 31, and a dual or triple battery system with isolators. Order the dual alternators if you are buying a new truck. Manual transfer case is more reliable if you still have that option on the new trucks. With 6.4 and auto trans, I'd probably get the 4.10 gears if there is a choice, even if you plan to run 37s. My PW is running 4.56s and 35" tires, but I think I'd be happier with 4.10s. For wheels, find a set of genuine PW wheels with the internal beadlocks, or a set of Hummer H2 wheels. The H2s also have the internal beadlock, and they are 1/2" wider with 1/4" less offset (i.e., 1/4" more backspace) so they clear big tires a tad better than stock PW wheels. The H2 wheels have a smaller hub hole, so you'll need a wheel machinist to re-bore the centers to fit the Dodge hubs. It's easy to adapt the Dodge center caps to the Hummer wheels so that no one (except geeks) will notice they aren't factory. I don't think there is anything in the AEV catalog that I would want to put on a new truck.
 

Betarocker

Adventurer
I ran ICON on my last two Super Duty's, I enjoyed the quality of their kits, but I had issues with prematurely blown shocks on both. They always sent rebuild kits for free, but having to constantly take it to the shop to have them rebuilt and recharged was not fun. I felt like the ride was overly stiff as well. Icon was great when it was Donahue, since the change I feel like they got too big too fast and QC has suffered a bit because of it.
I have considered getting the BDS radius arm 4" kit, upgrading the rear shocks to Fox 2.0 smooth bodies and the fronts to Fox 2.5 external reservoirs with One Up Off-road reservoir mounts and Sulastic Shackles. I know Carli is the way to go simply for the valving in the shocks but aside from that everything is comparable in quality and performance. I don't plan on any high speed runs through the whoops (I have a RZR for that) so I am wondering if the Carli kit is necessary for my needs as an Overlander.

If you change out the radius arms, OUO should be the only consideration. Some will say PMF does the same thing, but while they tried to copy OUO (who did the R&D) they missed out on a few subtle details and do not perform the same.

I won't have a heavy duty truck without OUO traction bars. Full control of axle wrap, zero compromising of suspension movement, cleaner/crisper shifts. Again, others have copied design elements of OUO but missed the key details. I'll await the response from those who say they aren't needed, but by design a leaf spring will wrap if it has travel. The softer the leaf (Icon, Deaver), the more it will wrap. Lift blocks add to the effect, but even without any blocks it happens too. Larger tires, heavier loads, more torque also contribute to it as well. Manufacturers have tried to deal with wrap by having one shock forward and the other rearward of the axle, but it's not a solution.

If you might consider a 4 link (actually 5 link because they require a tracbar) kit, they are purely a Bling accessory. They are all parallel (or nearly parallel) bars which by design are subject to very low anti-dive (meaning high brake dive) effect. Every true 4 link on buggies and crawlers use a lower bar set at between 7 and 10 degrees and a horizontal upper bar, in a triangulated orientation. Both ends of the link bars need to have high misalignment rod ends. Vertical separation of the axle end of the link bars should be 1/4 the diameter of the tire. None of the bolt on systems have forward rod ends so they rely on a little bit of flex in the bushing on the axles for movement.
 

Dalko43

Explorer
One thing to consider in regards to the Ram is that the Cummins ISB is designed to shut down by the PCM if it loses an injector, IMHO that sucks. In no way should I be left stranded on the side of the road because of a bad injector. I understand that it's a fail-safe from a design POV, but I think it's a poor execution.

Do you have a document or reference to support this? I hadn't heard that about the 6.7L Cummins until now.


The Aisin tranny in the new trucks is a huge improvement, but you are correct, the transmission has always been a weak point on a Ram.

The Aisin, by all accounts, is a true HD transmission that is well suited to the torque put out by the Cummins. The base 68RFE has also seen improvements over the previous auto's and a lot of owners of stock Ram's (key word being stock) seem to have few if any problems with it. I wouldn't consider the transmission to be a weakpoint for the current generation of Ram 2500/3500.

I wish the new Rams could deal with the fuel down in Mexico and countries even farther south. If they could this would be mine already.

OP didn't say he was looking to travel into Mexico, so I don't know if that is relevant.
 
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kurtwp

Armchair Adventurer
I would compare the payload of a diesel to gas and also compare the payload of a 3/4 ton to a 1 ton. You will see a noticeable difference in payload compacity.

Kurt
 

Dalko43

Explorer
I would compare the payload of a diesel to gas and also compare the payload of a 3/4 ton to a 1 ton. You will see a noticeable difference in payload compacity.

Kurt

At least for the Ram 3500, the payload differences between gasoline and diesel aren't that pronounced.
 

Boz

Observer
If you feel the need for an aftermarket front bumper and winch mount, I'd still lean toward Aluminess to keep weight off the front end.

Like was previously mentioned, the Aluminess truck bumpers look like hammered ********. You can get any bumper Buckstop makes in aluminum as well. The price is quite a bit more but you save about 100lbs on a full-size bumper with grill guard (according to their site).
 

plainjaneFJC

Deplorable
Like was previously mentioned, the Aluminess truck bumpers look like hammered ********. You can get any bumper Buckstop makes in aluminum as well. The price is quite a bit more but you save about 100lbs on a full-size bumper with grill guard (according to their site).

They do look goofy. I was able to get Aluminess to make some mods to their bumper when ordered one for my FJC to make it look a little better.
 

watrboy

Observer
Buy the right rig

I would compare the payload of a diesel to gas and also compare the payload of a 3/4 ton to a 1 ton. You will see a noticeable difference in payload compacity.

Kurt

I run a fleet of heavy duty Ford and Chevy pickup trucks. Couple of Freightliners and a Peterbilt. In 40 years of paying for maintenance and new vehicles. It is always better to buy a little bigger than you need and never exceed the manufacturers limits in payload or trailering. All the major brands will last 200k if you follow the recommended maintenance and don't overload.

Besides, if an accident occurs and a lawyer/insurance company finds out a vehicle is overloaded or improperly used. Good luck with walking away intact from that.

This discussion is great and very informative. I love the PW and new Fords and would like a diesel for the power, but realistically my gas Chevrolet has done all I need when I need it with 0 problems. Its the right vehicle for my application. But it might not work for yours.

Good luck on your search.:)
 

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