Drawer Options

Jojo29er

Observer
I'm starting the design process for my trailer drawers. Lots of different options and ideas floating around on the site. I've decided to use 1/2" birch and use a basic design. Drawers will be of different sizes ranging from 18x20x24 to 18x10x12. The bigger drawers will dry food goods, dishes, drink ware, bulky gear, etc. Max weight on these larger drawers will push 30lbs. Smaller drawers silverware, towels, and misc. junk drawer items of lesser weight.

Here are a few questions:
1. What is the best/simplest way to hold the drawers shut? Magnets? Slam shut latches, locking slides? Which have failed either in build or field? Which are easiest to install?
2. Will I need slides at all? If not are people treating the plywood with wax or other non sticking material? Have the drawers held up over extended use?

I'm not a great woodworker but had success with simple plans so I don't want these to be too heavy or complex. Thanks in advance.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
cheapest / easiest would be magnetic cabinet catches and if you want to secure them against harsher off-road jarring bumps, there are several methods of physical catch to keep them closed. Also you might find a simple 'child proofing' catch would work to prevent the drawer from opening more than a couple inches. It would matter more what the axis of motion of the drawers is, fore to aft in the trailer or side to side. If it's side to side you'd want a much stronger mechanical latch / catch.

As for slides, I choose not to. I'm in a dry dusty environment and have a good deal of experience building in wood. So it's an easy choice for me. Drawer boxes such as yours really wouldn't need slides. But it's also an issue of how far you need / want to pull those boxes out.

There are all sorts of wood rail designs, especially in old wood furniture. You can simple put a strip of wood on the side of the box and a matching pair in the outer box to trap the rail on the drawer side. And suspend the drawer that way, such that the bottom doesn't drag. Then, yes, wax is good but not strictly necessary. Especially if you orient the grain of the rails in the direction of motion.

My no-metal-slides build is here -
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/161631-Storage-Drawers-Platform-for-my-GMT800-Suburban-WIP
 

Jojo29er

Observer
OK, I'd read through most of that thread before. I didn't see how your slides worked though. You don't have issue pulling those drawers out? They are weighted down much more than I anticipate mine will be.

You mentioned you may put a 3m product or metal on the slides, did you have to?

I've looked into the plastic latches you used on top. Are they heavy duty enough to use?

BTW I'll have three drawers drivers side (one larger and two small stacked), two large rear stacked, and two small stacked on the passenger side. The remaining passenger side area will be battery compartment.

The whole area I'm working with is approx. 50" wide x 48" long x 26" tall. Exact size to be determined, still in fabrication stage.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
Both drawers in my build are essentially on runners. The left drawer has a narrow ledge in both bottom corners of the box. The fully loaded drawer slides on those and rides over the pull-out shelf / tray. In the top corners of that box there are similar rails that fit very close to the top edges of the sides of the drawer. That close fit allows me to pull the drawer very far out and still have it cantilevered without any droop. And the top rails also allow me to have a full-span top hatch in the platform so I can still access recovery and other emergency gear if I'm unable ot open the rear hatch or drawer. That hatch design required the addition of the upper guide rails to span that hatch opening and keep the drawer from tipping as the rear of the drawer enters the hatch area.

The right drawer, only partially filled - contents vary depending on what I'm up to - glides on two 1" wide strips of pressboard. So the full bottom of the drawers doesn't touch anything, greatly reducing the overall drag. It's sides are full height IIRC, the platform deck is what keeps the drawer from tipping.

I used sturdy steel paddle latches and the way they open makes it a natural action to just keep lifting as I pull on the drawers. I'm a big mesomorph and fat, I have no problem convincing my platform drawers to do what I want. Someone sleight or prone to wearing skinny jeans and texting all day might have a bit of a struggle. On the flip side, on uneven ground, the drawers stop wherever I let them go. They don't drift all the way open or closed due to ground slope, as drawers with metal bearing-slides are wont to do.

I have not yet felt the need to add any glide material, nylon or teflon tape, graphite dry lube or anything else. At some point next year I might do a follow-up and pull the drawers and show any wear and tear. I am using / opening them often, as well as loading all sorts of heavy gear and equipment on top of them. My sacrificial edge mouldings are certainly getting sacrificed. Maybe I'll do the exam next Spring. I'm expecting to finish my solar integration and any other power port mods and will be looking to re-face the whole platform build with some highly-figured exotic hardwood.


eta the right hand drawer, note the height and fitment of the drawer sides

storagebuild034.jpg



This is looking into the left hand box. My choice of flush / hidden cabinet door hinges required me to lower the sides of the drawer, which in turn led to the use of a top rail to trap the drawer vertically. You can also see the bottom rails. The slide out tray fits between them. Too, you can see those rails are plywood and oriented vertically. About the worst for drag, yet still working. I might re-work them with solid pine and have a smoother face against the drawer bottom, for an easier glide.

storagebuild059.jpg



The extension of those top rails into the hatch area is what holds down the end of the drawer and allows them to open so far with very little deflection. The drawer works just the same in the vehicle, fully loaded with tools and gear.

storagebuild063.jpg
storagebuild091.jpg



That same sort of close vertical fit is what lets me extend the tray quite far. It's only 3/4" thick material, so there is some deflection if you put a lot of weight on it while extended fully.

storagebuild151.jpg
 
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Jojo29er

Observer
I understand your design, your execution is well done. Living in Cali you don't deal with the humidity the we deal with in the se. I'm afraid that even with plywood I'll have some swelling causing that design to stick more. I found this site:

http://ahturf.com/store/index.php?route=common/home

I've bought my 48" lockout slides for my pull out kitchen galley here. Accuride, for $300. They have a ton of options for catches and slides at the best prices I've been able to find. At $10/slide I'll probably go that route.

I plan on the drawer face to recess flush into the cabinet, at 1/2" I don't think I'll be able to use a clasp to hold them closed (not enough meat). I'd love to get some big beefy catches like yours but they are expensive and over kill (imo) for drawers as small as mine.

These are the two options I'm considering:

http://ahturf.com/store/index.php?route=product/category&path=26941_4610_28008_6831

OR

http://ahturf.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=26941_4610_27651_1848&product_id=10516

The magnets will give a cleaner look if they work. I worry that the plastic will wear out with a 10 year old slaiming them shut constantly.

I guessing nobody has used the magnets for trailer cabinets?

Thanks for your replys and suggestions. BTW do you sew a lot? I've been making backcountry bridge hammocks and tarps for a while and have considered trying to make a 270 degree awning. I really don't have to space to attempt something that big though.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
also look up the drawer designs of Ron Paulk on YouTube in his 'awesome rolling toolbox' or whatever he called it. He had a simple drawer box design and used a cap head screw IIRC as a locator / stop, which fit in a small notch in the drawer slide / groove. It was enough to retain the drawer and a slight lift gets them open.


I sew some, I have an awning project in the subforum here. This winter I'm amending it, adding 2' to all the major dimensions and addign some 1" woven strips as edge reinforcements. A 270 batwing would be an interesting project. Made a few storage bags and covers. I just ordered material to attempt a catamaran-style fabric deck for my Z71 roof rack. As a sun shade for the vehicle. The hammer-finish-painted plywood deck I made greatly improved solar insolation. I'm about to make a MkII wood deck to alter the design some and hopefully remove some wind noise at my preferred cruising speed. And before I fabricate a lockable solar panel mount for the roof. The fabric deck / shade is an experiment.
 

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