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Thread: Target R values for surfaces?

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Victoria BC
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    1,334
    Quote:
    The SIPs (structural insulated panels) material Victorian uses to build his structures are scientifically the best option for a camper. Air tight, a good compromise of R value to wall/roof/floor thickness and dew point issues minimized. due to no air entrainment. The drawback is that designs can be drawn with an Etch-A-Sketch, meaning very rectangular.

    Thank you. Very nice to hear :-)
    http://totalcomposites.com/ your supplier for European designed fiberglass sandwich panels and accessories.
    https://www.facebook.com/totalcompos...homepage_panel

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    pacNW
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    70
    Quote Originally Posted by Betarocker View Post
    Taking the science into account, retrofitting a metal bodied van or trailer is not as simple as just spraying the walls with closed cell foam because there isn't enough insulation to fully create a thermal cocoon. Any moisture inherently trapped between the foam and metal skin has no means to be evacuated and can lead to rusting. A layer of Roxul with a thin layer of 2 pound foam to make an air barrier will allow the humidity to bounce around in vapour form eventually finding a way out in the drainage ports throughout the bodywork. Roxul has the benefit of after getting wet, it will revert back to its R value once dried. Fiberglass batt once wet can never regain its R value.
    Good points and please allow me to suggest another material instead of Roxul or Fiberglass.

    3M Thinsulate(TM) SM600L is specifically engineered for use in vehicles and passes FMVSS-302. It's hydrophobic so moisture does not affect it. Impressive noise reduction as well. Based on the feedback we hear, Thinsulate(TM) appears to be the best practice among DIY and professional van builders/upfitters. PM me for a sample.

    I agree that SIPs (sandwich composite) are the best combination of structure and insulation and as such a great solution for building a camper body. Thinsulate(TM) could be used to increase R value and reduce noise. We have some thinner versions that might be applicable. SM400L and AU4002-5
    Last edited by _hein_; 11-04-2017 at 12:41 AM.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Seattle WA
    Posts
    3,422
    Quote Originally Posted by _hein_ View Post
    Good points and please allow me to suggest another material instead of Roxul or Fiberglass.

    3M Thinsulate(TM) SM600L is specifically engineered for use in vehicles and passes FMVSS-302. It's hydrophobic so moisture does not affect it. Impressive noise reduction as well. Based on the feedback we hear, Thinsulate(TM) appears to be the best practice among DIY and professional van builders/upfitters. PM me for a sample.

    I agree that SIPs (sandwich composite) are the best combination of structure and insulation and as such a great solution for building a camper body. Thinsulate(TM) could be used to increase R value and reduce noise. We have some thinner versions that might be applicable. SM400L and AU4002-5
    I have been interested in Thinsulate for a few spots in my truck. How small of quantities will you sell? I am thinking body cavities in the cab, around my cab-camper gasket, and under the head liner in the cab. Thoughts?

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    pacNW
    Posts
    70
    Quote Originally Posted by java View Post
    I have been interested in Thinsulate for a few spots in my truck. How small of quantities will you sell? I am thinking body cavities in the cab, around my cab-camper gasket, and under the head liner in the cab. Thoughts?
    Thank you for writing. The smallest roll of 3M Thinsulate(TM) we offer is 5 linear feet (@60" width) so 25 sq ft. It would be an appropriate noise and thermal insulator for the areas you mention. We stock 3 varieties: SM400L, SM600L, AU4002-5 and also have Low-E (3/16" closed cell aluminum skinned insulation in the same product category as Reflectix). Check DIYvan.com for contact info and links to our stores or you are welcome to visit us in Hood River.

    All the best,
    Hein

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    North West
    Posts
    160
    Any thoughts on this stuff?

    https://www.rmax.com/thermasheath-3

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    NM
    Posts
    484
    Quote Originally Posted by downhill View Post
    In a camper sized space, the dominate factor in thermal efficiency is not R value of the walls. It is air exchange. .....The best strategy is to eliminate cold bridging, including windows, and maybe shoot for an R value in the walls of 5 to 7. Any more than that is mostly wasted.
    We have a winner!!

    Unless your camper is a 2000 sq ft house, then house guidelines for insulation do not apply.
    2016 Toyota Tundra SR 4x4 Double Cab Long Bed 5.7L..... DIY camper on the way...

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    San Jose/California
    Posts
    54
    Quote Originally Posted by 1aquaholic View Post
    Any thoughts on this stuff?

    https://www.rmax.com/thermasheath-3
    According to the site it has an R value of 6. The R Values should be for 1" of insulation. On the scale of foam based insulation it's high but there should be stuff with a higher value.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    NM
    Posts
    484
    Quote Originally Posted by 1aquaholic View Post
    Any thoughts on this stuff?
    https://www.rmax.com/thermasheath-3
    XPS without face sheets is the cheapest decent material for structural core. Use 60 psi if you can get it locally.
    2016 Toyota Tundra SR 4x4 Double Cab Long Bed 5.7L..... DIY camper on the way...

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    North West
    Posts
    160
    I was leaning towards 2" or 2.5" which would be a R of 13 or 17.
    05 Fuso FG140

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