Lifting a Wj.. The right way

Startliving

New member
Hello, everyone, I've been stalking this forum for quiet a while now, and as the time to get my first off road vehicle approaches, it's time for me to make some specific questions.

I've learned a lot this past few months but never really having been part of this and not being mechanically inclined (yet) im just an assortment of information without much guidance.

My most pressing concern is... The lift. I known exactly what I want and what I don't but not how to get there. So this is where my questions start. More than a weekend mudding machine, im looking for an expedition/overland build, which might be my city (Las Vegas) driver too from time to time. End result I want is 4" long arm lift on 32". Easy enough but getting there is where the dilemma is as I don't have the money to just cash out everything I need in one go. So I'm just here overthinking on the best way to get there. So far this is the plan I'm contemplating as the best option. (I'll address my reasoning and questions at the end of the list. I want the ride to be comfortable at evey step of the way... To some degree.

1) start with a 3"lift consisting of Blistein 5100, IRO 3" shocks, Zone adjustable track bar, IRO sway bar links. $800

2) Fender flares and cut out. Will probably go with W-max as they requiere more cutting than the Bushwackers. $600

3) Wheels and tires. 15x8 ProComp 98 sitting on Cooper At3 (32/11.50/r15). $1,100

4) 4.10 gear swap $600 + Spartan rear locker $300

5) Tom Woods double cardan conversion, front and back. $600

6) Rough County long arm kit $1200 + slip yoke eliminator $150 + IRO 4" springs $300.

Reason why and question time.

1)I start with shocks and springs as I'll be getting an old used truck and there probably have to be replaced anyway, it also gives me some more clearance as I'll be using it off road with only this. I heard the 5100 are a huge improvement over the IRO and justify the $250. As far as understand I can set the shocks to 3"...riiight? I'm starting with 3" and not going for 4" from the start as 3" is the limit to where I don't have to worry about slip yoke, and drivetrain geometry, right?

2) Going to get fender flares to be able to fit larger tires and getting a good flex without a huge amount of lift, I want this to be pretty comfortable on the road, as that's where it will be sending most of the time, so a 6.5" lift is out of the question.

3) I'm getting that just because there's more options on 15" and those tires have amazing reviews.

4) Better gear ratio to get a nicer ride on the highway and get some mpg back.

5) To avoid the DW I'll be getting this. My question is, do I need to get front and back? Or just the front? That price is for the front and back but if I can do just front it would save me $200.

6) Finally get the 4" lift, and the long arm to improve driving and suspension travel.

__________________________________________
I known that I would be spending an extra $300 on the extra pair of springs but I think it's the right route. Plus I can test the truck and might decide that 3" SA is enough for my needs. And just get some adjustable SA.


The other option is skip the first step and get a 2" BB Instead, do the rest the same and do the whole lift at the end. When all the other part are in place already.


What do ya'll think? Any recommendations? Anything I'm missing in the setup? Am I missing any parts that need to be changed to go over the 3" lift?

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nwoods

Expedition Leader
I think that spending $1100 on wheels is silly. It's just cosemetics. Spend the money getting the lift you want, focus on performance. To save money on rims and tires, consider getting some Rubicon take-offs. 32"BFG tires, decent looking wheels on WJ body's (I think), and can be found on CL for under $600
 

Startliving

New member
Wait.... What? Spending on tires is cosmetic? How is that so? It doesn't matter what you have, if you have ****ty tires you are not going anywhere... I mean, tires ARE performance.

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nwoods

Expedition Leader
Wheels, not tires. The rims is what I'm talking about. I thought you listed procomp rims
 

JeepN95YJ

Adventurer
I agree with Nwoods regarding rims. Rubicon takeoffs are cheap and plentiful

You didn't mention what engine you are running. If you have the V8 you can skip the gear swap. It just isn't needed.

Driveshafts have nothing to do with DW. Vibration, yes but DW, no. If you have factory rezeppa shafts I do recommend replacing them. My 2002 came with double cardans front and rear and work great for me.

I run the 3" IRO with bilsteins and love them. They and not adjustable for 3 or 4" lift. Shock length is specific to your lift. I also run a 10mm spacer on the front. I get a great ride around town and on the trail. I do get acount an inch of sag in the rear when loaded for camping/travel. I have replaced my front upper control arms with TJ Rubicon Express control arms set to stock WJ length because my originals were rusted. I will also be replacing my lowers soon with fabricated short arms at stock length. I see no reason to go to the complication and expense of long arms when my short arms work so well.
 

Heavyopp

Observer
#3 -- Will 15" rims clear the brake calipers on a WJ? -- I'm not so sure they will -- research

#4 -- On road performance = ARB air locker -- only locker you can shut off completely for street use

#5 -- How does this effect death wobble? Death wobble comes from loose, worn front end parts, and loose bolts -- Your talking about custom driveshafts here aren't you

I wouldn't start with a smaller lift than wanted, I've built enough trucks to know that I don't want to do it twice -- Build it the way you want the 1st time --why waste the money and energy building it temporarily
 

Startliving

New member
Wheels, not tires. The rims is what I'm talking about. I thought you listed procomp rims
Oh, gotcha hahaha I was like "whaaaaaaaaaaat? " the ones I'm choosing are super cheap, you can get the 5 of them for 200 new, cheaper if you can find them on Craigslist. The $1000 is for tires+rims. Yeah, I'd never spend that amount on rims alone.

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Startliving

New member
I agree with Nwoods regarding rims. Rubicon takeoffs are cheap and plentiful

You didn't mention what engine you are running. If you have the V8 you can skip the gear swap. It just isn't needed.

Driveshafts have nothing to do with DW. Vibration, yes but DW, no. If you have factory rezeppa shafts I do recommend replacing them. My 2002 came with double cardans front and rear and work great for me.

I run the 3" IRO with bilsteins and love them. They and not adjustable for 3 or 4" lift. Shock length is specific to your lift. I also run a 10mm spacer on the front. I get a great ride around town and on the trail. I do get acount an inch of sag in the rear when loaded for camping/travel. I have replaced my front upper control arms with TJ Rubicon Express control arms set to stock WJ length because my originals were rusted. I will also be replacing my lowers soon with fabricated short arms at stock length. I see no reason to go to the complication and expense of long arms when my short arms work so well.
Yeah, I think there was a misunderstanding on the rims, lol, the rims are the cheapest I could get.

Good to know about the v8, as that's the engine I'm looking for, I'm actually on the lookout for my wj, looking for 20-04a v8 HO, with the tow package. That should help me avoid some mods, with hearing and the rrzzepa joints.

Sagging is one of my main concerns, I will be loading this thing up. Rear still bumper with tire carrier, RTT, smittybilt fridge, camping equipment...etc. I don't know if I want to either go 4" or just stronger heavy-duty springs.

Good to know about the shocks not being adjustable guess that makes me have yo decide in the lift size since the start.

Why custom arms and not just the adjustable ones?

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Startliving

New member
#3 -- Will 15" rims clear the brake calipers on a WJ? -- I'm not so sure they will -- research

#4 -- On road performance = ARB air locker -- only locker you can shut off completely for street use

#5 -- How does this effect death wobble? Death wobble comes from loose, worn front end parts, and loose bolts -- Your talking about custom driveshafts here aren't you

I wouldn't start with a smaller lift than wanted, I've built enough trucks to know that I don't want to do it twice -- Build it the way you want the 1st time --why waste the money and energy building it temporarily
Steel 15s with a 3.75 bs will, from everything I've researched.

I would love to eventually move up to an arb but that will come with time.

Yeah, Tom woods are custom but from what I've heard I can get a 02-04 CVS and spend 1/10 of what the Tim woods would cost, allowing me to put my money elsewhere.

Yeah, I'm struggling with this one. I don't want to do things twice...

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JeepN95YJ

Adventurer
Custom arms because I have the parts and like to do the work. They are adjustable.

If you are looking for the 4.7HO, it will likely come with quadradrive. This will eliminate the ability to run the Spartan locker without other mods. I swapped in a quadradrive front axle and have tha Aussie in the rear. This thing wheels well. It isn't a rock crawler but that is more about clearance than traction. It is an awesome trail rig.
 

Startliving

New member
How good is the the quadradrive? I know it's no arb but does it does the job? I won't be rock crawling wither, it's more about camping and going on some journeys across the USA and national parks.

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Jeepinaaron

Adventurer
Steel 15s with a 3.75 bs will, from everything I've researched.

I would love to eventually move up to an arb but that will come with time.

Yeah, Tom woods are custom but from what I've heard I can get a 02-04 CVS and spend 1/10 of what the Tim woods would cost, allowing me to put my money elsewhere.

Yeah, I'm struggling with this one. I don't want to do things twice...

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I doubt 15" wheels will fit, based on my personal experience.

Last time I had my wheels balanced they put interior sticky weights on my 16" wheels. When I left the tire shop they started to rub the brake calipers, so I do not believe 15" wheels will fit at all.

-Aaron
 

Jeepinaaron

Adventurer
Yeah, I think there was a misunderstanding on the rims, lol, the rims are the cheapest I could get.

Good to know about the v8, as that's the engine I'm looking for, I'm actually on the lookout for my wj, looking for 20-04a v8 HO, with the tow package. That should help me avoid some mods, with hearing and the rrzzepa joints.

Sagging is one of my main concerns, I will be loading this thing up. Rear still bumper with tire carrier, RTT, smittybilt fridge, camping equipment...etc. I don't know if I want to either go 4" or just stronger heavy-duty springs.

Good to know about the shocks not being adjustable guess that makes me have yo decide in the lift size since the start.

Why custom arms and not just the adjustable ones?

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If you intend on adding some weight, I would research the spring rate of the springs you intend to install. I am running the HD ARB springs and after I added a rear bumper/tire carrier and RTT I had to put 3/4" spacers in the rear.

-Aaron
 

Jeepinaaron

Adventurer
How good is the the quadradrive? I know it's no arb but does it does the job? I won't be rock crawling wither, it's more about camping and going on some journeys across the USA and national parks.

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If you aren't into Rockcrawling I think you will be fine no matter what you get, the WJ is a fine platform with its solid axles. My WJ is a V8 (not HO), with the 242 T-case and no Quadradrive. I actually prefer the 242 t-case because of the options. I ran my WJ on 31" tires on some tough trails in Moab and Colorado, to include Hell's Revenge, Poison Spider, and Moab Rim. I only had to pull winch cable on Moab Rim.

-Aaron
 

Startliving

New member
I'm guessing your rims are alloy right? They are much thicker than steel. Here are a couple pics.
ec3752dd6c06265b058537ba94187287.jpg
b2156ccc21db7e719951332d76879a90.jpg


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