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ArkansasDon

Observer
I've been checking out this site for some time. Liked what I seen here as of builds & mod's. I started on my project back in July using harbor freight trailer frame (1700lb). I tossed the tongue & built my own from scratch. I noticed that the front & rear frame rails along with center frame rails were not the same size as height wise as the side rails, I added more material to even up the difference in height on the front, rear & center rails. Everything is weld all the way around. I changed out the leaf springs to a better quality leaf springs & added shocks. The tub I will be using is M416 style Dinoot.

I ran some of the wiring (stop lights, tail lights, turn signals) inside the back bone, then out onto the frame rails. Drilled the frame rails & installed rubber wiring grommets, adds a clean look and eliminate sharp edges & chafing on the wiring. I'm also adding wire hold down clips to the wiring, drilled into the frame rails and using small machine screws to attach the wire clips to the rails.

The bottom of the frame ground clearance is a tad under 25" in height, axle ground clearance is tad over 14". I was thinking about putting 235\75R\15 Goodyear Wrangler tires on the 8 spoke black steel rims, but after seen these size tires (temp's only) 205\75R\15's & the ground clearance it has now, those 235\75R\15's would only add more height. I really do not think this chassis needs any more ground clearance. So I am going to order 205\75R\15 General Grabbers, 3 of them (1 for the spare)

I sand blasted the frame to bare metal to remove the red factory finish & for maximum adhesion for welding & the final paint finish. I sprayed a bed liner (2 stage) in a orange peel affect on the front, both sides, rear faces & bottom of the frame rails, the tongue box I came up 9" off the bottom and sprayed the bed liner on it also. After the bed liner was dry, I primed over the entire frame inside & out & the tongue box with PPG Epoxy Primer, top coated with base color "Coyote Tan" PPG Omni Base that matches Cerakote's Coyote Tan, then 2 coats of a low luster\satin automotive clear which is PPG Concept Gloss with a flattener added to dull the finish.

Re-tap (clean the threads) on the tongue rails (which I tapped prior) and install the socket head screws which I finished in a matte black moly finish to attach the diamond plate tongue platform. I media blasted them 1st.

I disassembled the tail lights and prepped them for paint. I primed, painted base color & clear them to match the rest of the trailer color. The screws (for the lens), mounting brackets, & license plate bracket I media blasted & painted with a matte black moly coating to match the existing black moly finish I used on the trailer parts.

Hopefully I am looking at the 1st of the new year to have it all finished. The roof top tent is a Smittybilt 2783, this will have a solar charging system w\100watt Renogy panel (which will be mounted on the tent rack permanently) & a 50 watt portable Renogy panel with folding stand if I need more wattage w\30 amp charge controller this will power the Engel 34 Qt. Frig\Freez and few other accessories. The batteries will be 2 Optima Blue Top Marine wired in parallel. I know for sure I'll be changing out the front 2" ball coupler to a Lock 'N' Roll articulating hitch. So far I am happy what progress is done & how it's looking.
 

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patoz

Expedition Leader
:wavey: Welcome to the forum!

That looks like a good start on a pretty nice project. Too bad you had to replace just about everything on the trailer frame to get the quality you need.

Good luck with it...
 

ArkansasDon

Observer
yes, I agree, what happens when you use this type of frame. If I had it all over to do again, I would built it from scratch. Thanks for the welcome. It will be a solid reliable build.
 

4OHi6

New member
I agree I'd likely start from scratch. Having it titled was about the only plus. But I love it and have 10,000 miles on mine.
IMG_0130.jpg
 

rnArmy

Adventurer
With proper reinforcements and modifications (and a suspension swap), a HF frame isn't a bad way to start. Here's mine based off a 4' HF-type frame. It has thousands of miles on it (and a couple trips up into Alaska and Canada). The picture where it is all dirty is when we ran the Dempster Highway (with my buddy's modified Jeep ZJ). 3500lb axle with electric brakes in case you're wondering.
And I don't know how to weld, so this was a good starting platform for me.

Hardtop.26.jpgCover.2.jpgYukon Dempster.1.JPGtent cot.23.jpg
 

rnArmy

Adventurer
Trailer extension 005.JPGWillys and trailer.jpgtrailer tub floor bracing.jpg

Yes; due to the uneven heights of the C-channel (by design as one section fits into another), I too had to add a strip of 1/8" thick strap to fill the gap. Totally no big deal. It actually worked to my benefit as I used 1/8" angle iron on both ends to help secure the box in place in two different planes (and just strap on the center cross member). You can see the angle on the tub's back end in this picture (right above the D-rings). There are bolts going straight down through the tub, angle iron, and into the frame. And then bolts through the tub and into the angle iron that's sticking up. I also ran angle iron almost the length of the trailer. The underside shot shows the strap in place. And that's my 46 Willys CJ2A (and the trailer during its transition). Someday I'd love to go on an adventure with the Willys and trailer (like the TAT).

tent cot.26.jpg
 
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ArkansasDon

Observer
did you keep the Willy's stock as of drive train? The only thing I done to the one I re-done & owned out of stock (after-market) was 12v system, larger brakes, big wheels & tires, zero lift with Rancho springs, shocks, stirring stabilizer & a over drive. Everything else was Willy's & kept stock.

Those 2 rigs were the ones I wish I never sold. The 1972 Suzuki LJ 20 was a piece of work. Hardly any parts available in the U.S. Most of the parts I ordered came from Canada or Australia. 359 cc water cooled 2 cycle motor was quite different. I sold it to a feller in Ottawa Canada in 2002. Like your trailer, you done a nice job.
 

rnArmy

Adventurer
Thanks. The trailer has really worked out well for us, and has gone everywhere we've wanted it to go. My TJ is only a four cylinder, and while it is geared properly for the 33" tires (4.88 gears), there's only so much you can ask of it. The trailer fully loaded and "wet" (cooler, fuel jugs full) weighs in at around 1250lbs. The trailer has never let us down - I'm a believer in the HF trailer build (yours is looking very nice). But I'm talking Jeep-type/sized trailers. It can't compete if you're trying to compare it to the big military surplus trailers they're selling now that are designed to be pulled behind a HUMVEE at a minimum. But for pulling behind a Wrangler type Jeep, a little trailer based off a HF frame can be built inexpensively and be quite sturdy off-road.

I bought my Willys in 1989 (it was pretty rough), and have been working on it ever since. Willys is a 46 CJ2A with a 3A windshield frame. Dana 25 front/Dana 44 rear (swapped out the factory Dana 41) with 5.38 gears and Lock-Rites front and rear. T-90 tranny (with T-90-C gears - drops first down to 3.33), Spicer 18 transfer case with Warn OD. Rancho 2.5" lift (and 5000 series shocks), Saginaw manual steering, 68 Firebird seats, 5-point racing harness. Ramsey 6000lb winch, full cage, Valley swing-away spare tire carrier, narrowed M38A1 (Viet Nam era) military rear bumper with Jeep YJ bumperettes. 1973 Pinto 2000cc engine using a Novak adapter, GM alternator (12V) with external regulator. Pertronix in the distributor, and MDS-5 ignition. Cagle fuel regulator (made quite a difference actually). Con-Ferr tranny skid plate and U-bolt skid plates. 31x10.5x15" tires on 15x8" black spokes. 11" brakes front and rear. Lots of diamond plate to cover up ugly. CB radio. 10lb CO2 tank. It doesn't go fast, but it will pretty much go anywhere.
Actually rides pretty nice. I've had it on its side twice. I don't plan on ever getting rid of it - too many good memories attached to it. Would love to take it (and the trailer of course) on a slow trip up the Alaska Highway (preferably with a like-minded group) and take some side excursions along the way. Or bring the truck and trailer as a support vehicle and just drive the Willys. It is fun to plan and scheme trips (this is the Expedition Portal).
Parade.8.jpgWillys and new trailer rear view - Copy.jpgCover.1.jpgZJ and trailer.2.jpg
 
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R.E.D.

RetiredExtremelyDangerous
Welcome ArkansasDon,
Nice work on your trailer. Looks like you put a lot of thought in your work! Red.
 

ArkansasDon

Observer
24312669_1522081237840745_8847199552716884208_n.jpgjust about finished, I just finished the electrical in the tongue box> The entire electrical system is solar w\ Renogy 30amp charge controller, 200watt Renogy portable suite case panel that plugs into a Zamp solar port, fuse block for (3) 12v socket outlets powering 22qt. 12v Engel frid\freez, the Propex H2000 Heating system for late fall winter camping, light switch for (2) 12v low wattage filtered LED lights on the tent rack. The new VMax AGM Tank Battery holds 155amp hours w\ life span of 10 to 12 yrs & the battery shut off switch for storage.

Mounted the Smittybilt 2783 RTT on the rack, next step is to fabricate brackets for the (2) 3 gal. Rotopax fuel cans, install a mount for the high lift jack & recovery boards under the tent, then its all done for use. It's been a long project & I am ready for the end of it. I still have to mount 2 awnings (1) rear & the other mounted on the front of the tent rack that will swing out, both being 4.5ft x6ft. I am still fabricating that.

The paint, is all PPG automotive w\ PPG Epoxy Primer, PPG Base matched to Cerakotes Coyote Tan & PPG Concept Gloss Clear with a flattener added to lower the sheen level to a low luster. All the metal was sand blasted to remove all scale & rust for a good prepped surface. The underneath is been undercoated with a automotive undercoater. I shot on a 2 stage bedliner 9" up on the tub,face of the fenders & frame rails & on the inside of the tailgate & in the bed. The tires are General Grabber AT 2 215\75R\15's. The trailer has 25" of ground clearance from the bottom of the frame rails, 14" of ground clearance of the axle.

You can see the entire build on https://americanadventurist.com/forum/threads/my-project.5374/



















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24312669_1522081237840745_8847199552716884208_n.jpg
 
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