2000 AEV TraumaHawk on a Freightliner FL-60 conversion

Coachgeo

Explorer
This is what happens when I try to post:

Internal Server Error

The server encountered an internal error or misconfiguration and was unable to complete your request.

Please contact the server administrator, webmaster@forum.expeditionportal.com and inform them of the time the error occurred, and anything you might have done that may have caused the error.

More information about this error may be available in the server error log.

Additionally, a 404 Not Found error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request.

I tried to email the administrator, but wouldn't go thru...
Any ideas?

mine did this too few weeks ago. I just waited. I assume it means they are doing board maintenance in the back ground or their server is overloaded which is more liable the case. This site appears to not be maintained well at all.... then again with so much traffic it is probably near impossible to do so.
 

patoz

Expedition Leader
pennersm,

Since you were able to make the post above, I'm guessing the problem doesn't occur every time you post, correct?

The only thing I can suggest is, log out of the forum, clear out all of your internet cache, cookies, history, etc., and reboot your computer. Then try again.

Good luck getting Admin to get any problems fixed. I've been trying to get them to correct a well known notification problem for two years and nothing has been done about it yet.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
It's not that simple.

First of all, "Internal Server Error" means exactly that - a server error. Clearing cache and whatnot on the client isn't going to clear an error on the server.

"Getting stuff fixed" - when you buy your software from a third party that means it gets fixed if and when the software vendor gets around to it. Or not, as the case may be.

Having a couple admins to keep the thing up and running is not the same as having programmers on staff to rewrite someone else's buggy code. Code that likely as not is copyrighted and you're not allowed to mess with anyway.
 

vintageracer

To Infinity and Beyond!
Hi Scott,

I like the wafer LED's you went with. I purchase LED's that went in the original sockets. They seem to get rather warm and have begun to melt the plastic socket if left on too long. Will your mount allow for some heat dissipation to the metal fixture?

Scooter...

This is the answer as to why your LED bulbs got warm and melted the plastic socket when left on:

"Don't use "Canbus" LEDs in your RV!

RV owners replace their incandescent lights with LEDs so that they'll get better battery life. LEDs produce the same amount of light while using less power.

“Canbus” LED lamps are built to deliberately waste power like incandescent lamps! Why? Some automobiles that were built to use incandescent lamps have a feature that detects when the lamp is blown out, and indicates it with a trouble light and error code. To do this, the vehicle computer senses the resistance of each lamp, or the current flow through the lamp when it's lit, and indicates trouble if the current or resistance is not what is expected of an incandescent lamp. So “canbus” LED lamps have a resistor added, in parallel with the LED, to use enough power for the car computer to think there's an incandescent lamp there instead of an LED.

The house lights in your RV don't have a computer to detect blown-out lamps. If you put a “canbus” LED lamp in your RV, it will light up just fine, but it will use more power than it should.

In general, “canbus” LED lamps also cost more than lamps without the resistor. Cheap LED lamps are available on eBay for rock-bottom prices and generally work just fine. A “canbus” LED lamp can cost 10 times more!

What's a “canbus”? Properly referred to as “CAN bus”, the Controller Area Network bus connects microprocessors in the vehicle. You might have met it if you've used the ODBII connector under your dashboard to plug in a trouble code reader. The lamps actually aren't connected to the CAN bus in any way! It's just that when some cars have LEDs installed and detect them as blown incandescent bulbs, the error code is reported via the CAN bus."

Quoted from Bruce Peren's RV


It's the resistor's inside the Can bus LED bulbs that cause the excessive heat when left on for extended periods of time such as a interior light rather than used in a temporary light situation such as a tailight.
 
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pennersm

Observer
Water inlet box

So I am starting on the plumbing now. My first order of business wass to install the water inlet connection box. So I decided where I wanted it, felt around on the inside of the rig, drilled a hole from the inside out, then used that hole as the starting point for my measuring. Measured out the correct size and started cutting the skin.
Boy did I pick a terrible spot! I guess I missed a thing or two when I 'felt' around from the inside. Not only was the 2" tube framing right there, but there was about 1/2" thick metal piece hiding back there.
image1 (1).jpeg

image2 (1).jpeg

After a bunch of sawsall blades and some choice expletives, I was able to get it cut out.

image3 (1).jpeg

Once that misery was over, I got the space cleaned up and installed the box.

image5.jpeg

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Other than scoring some of the vinyl, it didn't come out too bad after all. I'll have to steal some of my daughters nail polish to touch up my mistakes.
 

pennersm

Observer
Pluming

After that last mess, I had some good happen when I fit my tanks and realized the two 16gal tanks fit side by side with a millimeter to spare!!
I made a cut through the side of the cabinet to be able to run the hoses from the water inlet box. I used some reclaimed suction hose to cover the sharp edges.

image8.jpeg

I then anchored a ratchet strap to the bottom and back side to hold the tanks in place.

image9.jpeg

image10.jpeg

That was all I was able to get done that day, I ran out of motivation, that and I was missing a fitting I needed for the connection to the inlet.

Hopefully Mother Nature will be kind to me on my next day off so I can get the rest of the plumbing completed...
 

pennersm

Observer
Braided PVC tubing

So last night I was messing around with some of the supplies I purchased to do the plumbing, and I am kind of regretting my decision to use Braided PVC tubing. I am starting to think I should have went with PEX. Have any of you guys used the PVC tubing? I am hoping that if I use some hot water, it might allow me to make better bends...Granted it was a brisk 35 degrees last night so the tubing wasn't the most pliable....

Any input?
 

pennersm

Observer
Update on some work

I was able to get a few more things accomplished. I cut, stained, and poly'd my counter top.

amb45.jpg

Mounted the counter top and installed the sink.

amb46.jpg

amb48.jpg

Connected the water pump and drain...bingo, we have water!

amb47.jpg

Next to start on the bed...
 

scooter421

Adventurer
I was able to get a few more things accomplished. I cut, stained, and poly'd my counter top.

View attachment 433638

Mounted the counter top and installed the sink.

View attachment 433639

View attachment 433640

Connected the water pump and drain...bingo, we have water!

View attachment 433641

Next to start on the bed...
Looks really good! My wife keeps saying she does not need running water inside the truck. I am hoping your set up will convince her otherwise! She is worried about losing counter space.

Sent from my LGMS345 using Tapatalk
 

guidolyons

Addicted to Gear Oil
Making great progress.
What size fridge is that? 110VAC/12VDC?

Braided PVC and hose clamps will be easier (cheaper?) will not do well with any hot water though. PEX will be better for hot water lines, but requires crimping band tool/or expensive sharkbite fittings.
 

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