How to connect Renogy 200w suitcase panels to Goal Zero Yeti 1000?

Hi All - I just got my goal zero yeti 1000 and my renogy 200w suitcase panels just arrived. https://www.renogy.com/renogy-200-watt-eclipse-monocrystalline-solar-suitcase-open-box-like-new/

First problem is that none of the connectors/cables with the renogy look like they would fit into the yeti inputs. I also see that the 2 panels are wired to a solar controller on the renogy and it looks like the normal wiring would then go straight to a battery (alligator clips). Since the yeti 1000 has a built in solar controller, I assume somehow I bypass this. I really have no idea what im doing with either of these devices yet, first time user of them, so was hoping someone could help me understand what exactly I need to connect the panels to the yeti safely (and the extension cable to get it 30').

Thanks
JD
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Let's start in general.

3 components: panel(s), solar controller, battery

You don't put the output from one controller as input to another, it goes direct to the battery.

Connectors need to be identified if standard, reverse engineered if you like. Tip and ring polarity pos vs neg, and diameters, pretty basic.

Battery output can be used as direct input.

Batt chemistry determines proper voltage levels for Absorb setpoint, determining when full then dropping to Float.

In this case an adjustable SC would be ideal, personally a $100 Victron 75/15 MPPT would be my choice, as I suspect the kit-included ones would be sub-par.

Have you got a DMM to measure volts and/or ammeter for current?

I'm sure more specific advice will come soon, if you're not interested in learning to fish. . .
 
Thanks. So I basically need to bypass the renogy controller and wire the panels directly to the input of the yeti 1000. I wont be charging any batteries, it'll only be used to keep the yeti 1000 charged which will be used to run an ARB 63 fridge/freezer and misc camp lighting, etc. I assumed that the yeti solar controller would automagically handle keeping things regulated as far as voltage/setpoint/etc? In my mind it was as simple as daisy chain the renogy panels together, then wire it to a cable that fits into the input of the yeti 1000 and it does its magic from there at least to get me going...until i want to branch off into deep cell batteries onboard my offroad trailer, etc. Or do i need to tune the settings on something?
 

john61ct

Adventurer
The Yeti is your battery, just in a box with some ports and gadgets included.

I would advise getting the specs and testing the outputs from your two existing (IMO cheapo) controllers.

I suspect the one built into the Yeti is of higher quality, and since neither are likely to be adjustable, as a quality SC would be, more likely to be set to the right programming for that battery.

Or perhaps not. Its chemistry is probably a Lithium-Ion type, hopefully LiFePO4.

I haven't come across a vendor yet that supplied a LFP charger with what I would consider optimal setpoints.

Nice thing about one like the Victron 75/15 is that it's fully programmable, and the MPPT tech may well improve power yiels 15-25% depending on conditions, panel specs, wiring in series vs parallel etc.

But if you want to go with the Yeti built-in SC, you'll need to determine the specs for its input port on the Yeti.

And disconnect the panel wiring from the kit SC.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
I would suggest adding wiring couplers between your suitcase panels and their controller. And then creating an extension cable that those panel wires would connect to on one end and configure the other end of the extension cord to plug into the Goal Zero contraption as power in. Then that bypasses the suitcase panel controller when you are using it in conjunction with your Goal Zero device.

MC4 connections are common in solar. I prefer to use Anderson Power Pole connectors so I have the option of swapping various components and cable end connections around, however a given situation requires. They're also a burgeoning standard in the HAM radio and RC vehicle worlds.

Were I you I'd start boning up on some fundamentals of electrical wiring and components, so you understand what stuff does and what you are trying to accomplish. The $50 dual battery mod topic is chock-full of such educational content.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Yes, good to standardize on APP at an appropriate amperage for conversions, and to create "generic" extension wires.

Genuinedealz.com will make up custom
 

Gabex35

Adventurer
I have the yeti 1000 also and will be powering it with a renogy 100. Powerwerx.com has a special M4 to goal zero APP piece that I plan to get or you could get Goal Zero's special plug for almost double the price.

when I did my bypass for a yeti 400 I had, I spliced the wires designated to go into the renogy controller to some SAE plugs. I have one of the SAE's with bare ends that go to renogy controller (pretty much the way yours is now, only with a "quick disconnect" sae in the middle). and another stand alone SAE piece with M4 connectors so that I can use the M4 to 8mm connector to the goal zero. (soon to be replaced by the M4 to GZ APP as I mentioned above)

I haven't purchased the Powerwerx wire yet and have zero experience with Anderson power ports but I suspect it will work fine.

hopefully that helps and isn't too confusing.
 
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