FUGGLY

So the deed is done, for better or worse. This past Friday my wife and I brought home a 2001 XLS. I had narrowed our options down to two vehicles. A plush, one-owner Limited version with good maintenance records but higher miles sold just before we arrived – – as the owner put it, "the guy beat my door down to pay the asking price." So it was down to the XLS, and after a long test drive and extensive tire kicking we all approved...with admitted reservations about cosmetic and mechanical issues.

THE BAD

- Guy selling it had only owned it for a matter of months and had no extensive maintenance records
- Rear bumper was clearly smacked at some point and repaired with Play-do and a fingerpaint set
- Bottom of the motor is slick with oil that the owner attributes to a rear cam seal leak
- Somewhere along the line the poor old Pajero was subjected to a chain smoker who serially inflicted burns to its seats
- On the drive home the truck bucked strangely at a light (amost as if it was tapped from behind) but never lost power
- The day after purchase, on a short drive, the temp gauge crept up. I pulled over as it pegged on high. After it cooled down we drove home without issue. Hmmmm
- Features a poor man's lift comprised of inexpensive shocks, struts, tower spacers and big-******** 34" retread tires (not the vision I have for durable suspension and quality rubber)
- The rear springs are sagging a bit...but they'll be replaced soon, regardless
- Wanders a tad at higher speeds like most lifted trucks – – something I believe a more conservative lift (OME, ADD?) and slightly smaller tires will remedy
- Once up to speed there's a slight side-to-side shimmy in the steering wheel. I suspect an out-of-round (cheap) tire

THE GOOD

- Ample room and comfortable seating, as advertised. Fambly approved
- Engine bay and components very clean and seem well maintained
- All easily-checkable fluids full and clean
- Runs strong and smooth and has low-end grunt. Certainly lacks juice but does not feel cumbersome
- Crazy nimble for a big, heavy, lifted vehicle; turning radius is stupid good
- Factory hitch already in place and does not look to have been used much
- The PO is an avowed Mitsu guy who was open about stuff I should fix asap. (He drives a 2000 Montero with 400K on a motor he has personally rebuilt twice). He threw in a top-end gasket set and a tranny filter kit since he was planning on doing those himself
- Cigarette burns and chunky bumper aside, overall the truck is clean. The Florida-friendly white paint is in very good shape and the gray interior is redeemable despite a few flaws
- Lifted stance is far more beefy and appealing than stock setups
- Not a fan of the 285/75/16 Treadwell tires (just my bias against remoulds) but they are essentially new so Craigs-listing them should somewhat offset a new tire purchase

So, I'm in that funky place between new-purchase euphoria and buyer's remorse that will not resolve itself until all maintenance issues have been addressed and I drive the truck for a while. I've ordered timing belt, water pump, accessory belt, upper gasket kit, cam seal, plugs, plug wires, coil packs, Rotella oil, LSD fluid, cooling water line o-ring, new radiator cap, thermostat, temp sensor, etc. -- the whole nine yards (with patient coaching by seasoned poster Michael Brown along the way). The revival of Fuggly is at hand. I'll post updates as time permits. Truth be told, this'll be more of a reverse-build than a ground-up build since I'll be disassembling the current lift, tires, suspension components, etc. and replacing them with my own choices. And none of THAT is gonna happen until the old XLS proves to be reliable for a month or so after the extensive maintenance work is complete. And full disclosure: I lack the experience and talent of the resident wrenching magicians so it's gonna be a slow journey.

Why "Fuggly", you ask? Because "Fugly" was not available when we ordered the custom plate...and "Fuggafrigginlicious" just wouldn't fit. :ylsmoke: And because – at the risk of offending some of the locals – I don't find the Gen3's overly attractive. That is, from odd angles they are appealing, but the elaborate cladding is bizarre. Frankly they look like the twisted creation of a talented Japanese designer who, on the cusp of industry immortality, submitted a once-promising-concept-gone-wrong after bingeing on LSD, Buck Rogers' reruns and a bad batch of sake.

But it's all good. Once modified with beefier tires, lift, bumpers, etc. they become a rugged, hyper-unique and endearing form of fugly – sort of like a bowlegged bulldog. I've already noticed several "What the hell is that thing?" stares. I really hope she proves reliable since Fugly is growing on me like a fungus.

Thanks again to those in here whose advice has proved invaluable so far. Glad to be a part of this group.

Some pics just after I removed the side-steps yesterday:

fug1.jpg

fug2.jpg

fug3.jpg
 
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nnamssorxela

Adventurer
That thing looks clean!

If you are doing the timing belt yourself, I would certainly replace the front crank and cam seals while you are there. Cheap for replacements and the labor to get to them is already done. And if you are doing the seals yourself, go ahead an order a lisle 58430 to pull them without fuss.
 
Thanks, nnam. I'm buying parts but decided shop will do the timing belt and water pump...and since they'll be all up in there the spark plugs and cam seal also. Can you elaborate on replacing the front crank and cam seals, please? From what I'm told the big oil leak is from a rear cam seal. I assume you're recommending that all top end seals and gaskets be replaced since the plenum, etc. will be off anyway. Just fyi, I ordered this kit:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3472833&jsn=266

And this cam seal:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1118841&jsn=3

The PO did include a kit with multiple gaskets and seals for the top of the motor. I'll have another look at it to see what's included.
 
Thanks, Mole. Yes, I ordered this bolt and washer from Adventure Driven Design, this OEM pulley from eBay and this gasket kit from Amazon. Then I ordered this cheap tent from Amazon since my wife says after so many parts purchases I'm now sleeping in the yard.
 

nnamssorxela

Adventurer
Crispy - since you already have the crank pulley off the front of the motor you can simply slide off the crankshaft sprocket (no tools needed) to replace the front crank seal. The cams each have 1 bolt holding the pulleys on before you can get to the seals. Once the covers are off you can see if they are leaking, but the seals are so cheap it's worth doing while you are in there IMO.

Also, that cam seal is not the one I'm thinking of. I thought the rear cam seals were really o-rings like this:
4065d1458483260-2002-montero-sport-3-5l-engine-removal-camshaft-thrust-casings-o-rings.jpg
 
I'm sure you're right, nnam. The gasket set I mentioned above has the cam seal o-rings above.

My biggest issue (as a relative Mitsu noob) has been distinguishing between quality parts and sub-par parts since OEM is not always readily available. Unlike other more common brands it seems that good parts for Gen IIIs need to be cobbled together from multiple sources. Doesn't bother me too badly so long as I can find what I need.

Truck's sitting in my driveway until I figure out the overheating issue. Going to drop a new thermostat in this week and go from there. In my recent digging online I'm finding that the Gen III's have a common problem with temp gauges that register high temps when the truck is cooling just fine. Interesting fix is here.

Like most of the folks who've begun builds in here with higher-mileage Montero's the first order of business is problems, maintenance and prone-to-failure parts. I won't get to fun mods for a while yet which means I'm instantly nominated for "most boring thread in forum history."
 
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normal_dave

waytoomuchwritinginposts.
Coffeegoat did a good writeup on his '01 engine refresh, lots of pics, might do you some good to spend time here:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1xz0if5KwXJqMLsJILuYVJEwntt9bfVwXZPfXsHi3r2s/edit

His parts list here:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gbUj5RziJTqk-i_Fs9HughXCmFE77CWoFsiUOkFfF0c/edit#gid=0

When I was searching for Monteros, I was amazed at the number of trucks pictured with aftermarket temp gauges installed under the dash. Verify it is actually overheating first, then consider the radiator may have sludge issues. The temp gauge fix is relatively easy if you are handy with the soldering iron.

For Tires, (on a budget), I've been using Sumitomo Encounter H/T, that my veteran local tire guy recommended, a great all season tire...(and I'm a Michelin LTX M & S fan). I've just seen them release an A/T version that has me interested:
http://www.sumitomotire.com/trucks/products/Encounter/EncounterAT.aspx

While the larger tires look good and help "lift" the truck, I guess I'm old school, I'd prefer the benefit of the gear ratio with near stock tires, and get the work done off-road, using the truck's capabilities. We'll always lose the big tire beauty contest, we're pretty limited with wheel well room.
 
Thanks very much, Dave. Extremely useful. The writeup by coffeegoat is pure gold. I've done a helluva lot of digging in this forum but somehow I managed to dance around that spreadsheet until now. Crap. Good news is that the parts I've already ordered are pretty consistent with his choices. Brown Santa has been dropping presents on my porch all week.

santa.jpg

As (bad) luck would have it, my son just ground the gears out of his XJ's front axle while attempting to pull one of his buddies out of a mud pit. I spent the last few days feverishly searching for a full axle and diff. Just found one in a salvage yard so his ride gets the attention for now. I'll double back on dad's ride when time and funds allow. Thanks again for the links.

Oh, and I get the logic behind stock/skinnier tires...which seems to be the choice of quite a few knowledgeable folks in this joint. I may go that route but, well, damn...I still like the look of beefy tires on these rigs. Entirely changes their looks for the better in my humble opinion. Igor's Montero has served as an inspiration for me in the regard.
 
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My modest build has been delayed a bit given the need to replace my son's front axle. I'll be painting the one I just nabbed from a local pick-a-part with Permatex then primer later today, then replacing both ujoints before it goes back to shop. But I have found some time to fiddle with the Fug. She'll go to mechanic's soon for the aforementioned mechanical/maintenance upgrades but in the meantime I'm fiddling with some cosmetic stuff. Hopefully something below proves useful to another poster or two.

1.jpg
Rear bumper needs some serious love. Just ordered this as a first step after a neighbor who works at a body shop recommended it. Lots of filling and sanding in my future. All cladding will eventually go from silver to dark grey.

2.jpg
We recently got lit up by Hurricane Irma down here in Florida, and in the midst of the mayhem I found this old NATO style jerry can in an antique store. Served its purpose during the gas shortage but had some leaky old rubber gaskets. Located replacements and it'll be good to go after a degrease and repaint. Will eventually grace a metal bumper I plan to add.

5.jpg
Tried a neat little trick I stumbled onto online: Mother's aluminum polish as a means of cleaning headlights. Spread it on the lenses, hit them with a buffing pad on my drill and boom - nice and clear. I plan to spray them with some clearcoat soon to make the results last.

7.jpg

9.jpg
Truck had some ugly old pinstripes down the side. I used a heatgun to activate the adhesive and they peeled off slowly but relatively easily. Used this wheel to take off the remaining adhesive and a thinner second stripe. Saved tons of time. I'm going for a complete re-badge. One of my favorite things about the Montero is that folks have no idea what it is...so taking away all visual clues makes it even more fun.

8.jpg
Used knockoff Magic Erasers and lots of soapy water to remove years of buildup on the black window and door trim. Worked wonders. Also works great on interior plastic trim, rubber moldings, glass, etc. - just go slow and test small sections first before going to town.

6.jpg
Crawled under the Fug and stared at this sticker on the back diff for a while. Made me feel better about life in general. Will be replacing fluids in tranny, radiator, transfer case and both diffs with the help of my boy very soon.

4.jpg
Truck looks pretty good de-badged. Once it's clean and mechanically sound I'll be tackling the cheapo lift components and oversized retread tires (that I've found rub like crazy on both the bumpers and body). Really hate the rear-end sag which will be even more pronounced once I hitch up my little skiff/trailer. Been studying other build threads for ideas on springs, shocks and quality rubber.
 
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nnamssorxela

Adventurer
Wow that's cleaning up nice! Still getting my 4.9 LSD ready to put in my 03+....be glad you don'y have to wrestle with those diffs! On a side note, I stopped by a diff specialist and he said to run Redline Shockproof Heavy. He has several 1500hp plus cars, so I inclined to trust his judgement. I also read the the viscous coupler that makes these Torsen diffs a hybrid is a sealed unit, so you do not need any "LSD oil" or friction modifiers like other styles of LSDs.
 
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Wow that's cleaning up nice! Still getting my 4.9 LSD ready to put in my 03+....be glad you don't have to wrestle with those diffs! On a side note, I stopped by a diff specialist and he said to run Redline Shockproof Heavy. He has several 1500hp plus cars, so I inclined to trust his judgement. I also read the the viscous coupler that makes these Torsen diffs a hybrid is a sealed unit, so you do not need any "LSD oil" or friction modifiers like other styles of LSDs.

Thanks, nnam. Trying to clean her up a bit.

Hey, I want to confirm what the diff specialist you know said re: best/safest fluid for the hybrid/hyblid diff. After several recommendations from folks in here I purchased this OEM fluid for the rear diff:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TNKERBQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have no problem returning it (Amazon makes the process so easy) but before I do...

Are you saying your friend believes the Red Line oil (this one, I believe) is a superior option over the OEM offering linked to above? I'm sure a lot of this comes down to preference -- just want to be as informed as possible before I drain and fill the rear pumpkin.

So it's said, I've heard great things about the Red Line products and I plan to use this in front diff and this in transfer case.

Michael, thanks again for the patient, behind-the-scenes guidance you've provided to this Montero noob.
 

nnamssorxela

Adventurer
Crispy – I don’t want to steer you wrong here, as I’m just another opinion on the internet. That said, I’ll give you my story so you have another data point to base your decision on. I bought my diffs for ~$150 and spent that much again on seals (still in the mail). I took the diffs in “as is” condition (no fluid in them at all) and took them to the diff “specialist.” This guy builds all sorts of drivelines for crawlers, drag cars, and drag trucks. He felt them for free without pulling the cases and concluded that “they feel like they have 100k on them.” To me this meant that there was nothing I should be alarmed about, and that spending an additional ~1k just to pull them apart and replace the bearings was not money well spent. Keep in mind there was no fluid in them as it was drained by the junkyard, and that this would be the “worst” condition as far as feeling slop/play. The “specialist” recommend the Redline Shockproof Heavy (exact stuff you linked), and made the comment that he has NEVER seen anyone break a diff using that fluid, which is including 1600+hp track trucks that certainly put some stress on the drive line.

Looking at the fluid it is rated as a 75w-90 (and meets/exceeds the recommended GL-5) which is very close to the 80W-90 recommended for temps greater than -10F. Considering I may see lower temps than that for extended periods, I’m comfortable going to 75w instead of 80w. I also believe that as long as the “second” number matches the recommended oil weight, that the lower first number the better. Obviously, this is not always correct.

I think you will be fine with the mitsu stuff assuming your diffs are in good shape.
 
Thanks, nnam, for the perspective. I'm sure your buddy is knowledgeable and correct. However, I'm going to stick with the OEM LSD fluid this time around since I have yet to hear anything but good things about the stuff.

The list of maintenance-related items has grown to obscene levels. I've ordered stuff from Amazon, RockAuto, eBay, you name it. Mechanic will handle timing belt, belt tensioner, accessory belt, water pump, top-o-the-motor gaskets, plugs and plug o-rings, wires and coil packs. I'll be tackling upper and lower radiator hoses, thermostat, all fluid changes, coolant sensor and soldering of ECU element that I believe has made my heat gauge go all wonky. When it "overheated" a few days ago (pinned on hot) I ran by a friend's house and he shot the motor with a laser heat gauge and nothing registered more than 190 degrees.

Only thing delaying the rebirth of the Monty is my boy's recent nuking of his XJ's front axle (which, to be fair, was in suspect shape when we bought the Jeep). We worked on cleaning up a junkyard replacement yesterday.

10.jpg

After wire-brushing the whole assembly (and leaving the slightest bit of rust) we painted it liberally with this stuff. Wow, what a difference. Turned a dark blackish brown within 20 minutes of the first coat and any hint of of rust (save the rotors) is gonzo. Final step tonight will be a coat of flat black before it replaces the nuked stock axle. If I like the results I may treat some undercarriage elements of the XLS. I'll post an "after" pic asap in case anyone else is considering an undercarriage treatment.
 
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