1992 and older vs 1993 to 1998

[Deshet]

I have been thinking about getting an 80 series probably an LX450. I have a few friends that have had engine failures on the LX450 and the 1996-1997 Land Cruisers. (mainly headgaskets)

I understand that the 1992 use older style gear drive for timing, but it seems like I see them with nearly 300,000 miles going strong. I would like to get the newer style 1993 and up (still 20 years old) 80 seriers but everyone that I know with one has had some engine issues.

The 1998 and up ones seem nice but all of the ones I see for sale seem like the odometer is rolled back or the current owners is just flipping it and it needs a timing belt. It would be nice to find one from the orginial owner but that seems like its impossible.

Is the 1992 and older 80 series known to be more reliable than the 1993 and older 80 series.

Thanks,

 

[Upland80]

93-97 would be my choice. Rigs with over 300K on original HG are not unheard of. Rigs with under 200K and blown HG are not unheard of either. If I were buying another one, I'd pay a premium for a rig that already had the HG replaced...especially if done by Robbie.

 

[babybluebeast]

I personally prefer 1993 and 1994. You get the 1FZ engine, but you get the A442F transmission. You also can get lockers from the factory. I have a 1993 with 250K miles and it runs like a top. The power of the FZ is a way more practical engine for today's world than the F.

 

[JLee]

I wouldn't really call a head gasket failure an engine failure. If they were throwing rods or something that'd be different, but a HG job isn't the end of the world. Get one with lockers if you can!

 

[Deshet]

What's the going rate for a head gasket job?

Thanks

 

[Arktikos]

Dunno what going rate for head gasket job is in your area, but it ain't cheap, that's for sure.
The thing is about the FZJ80 is that most of them are way over priced to start with these days, with high miles, and mostly without head gasket done.
So, I don't see it as a very good value unless you can find an unusually cheap one. Come to think of it, I guess value shouldn't be a real concern when buying a LC.

But yeah, FJ80 with the rock solid old F engine is more likely to be found at a good price.
I personally can't relate to the need for acceleration, but then I don't live in an area with insane traffic like most of y'all do.

More reliable? Well yes, less likely to blow head gasket. Tough call-good luck!

 

[Chap79]

It's a subjective job based on if you perform the work yourself, what other parts you replace, rates at your local machine shop... Anywhere from $600+ doing it yourself to $1400-$2000 having someone else do it. At a minimum I would recommend replacing all the coolant lines, vacuum lines, EGR modulator and vacuum switching valve, fuel filter, PHH, rear heater lines, heater control valve, new spark plugs/wires, distributor, rotor, air intake hose, PCV and grommet, PCV hoses, belts, and have the machine shop perform a surfacing/pressure test and valve job while doing the head gasket. Much easier to take care of this items while it's all apart and easily accessible. Other things to consider at the same time would be fuel injector servicing/replacement, oil cooler, water pump, thermostat, oil pump o-ring.

If this is going to be your camping/adventure rig I would suggest doing the work yourself and getting comfortable working on the truck.

 

[Box Rocket]

'93-97 will be a better choice for a number of reasons. Better driveability with the 1FZ, full-float axles with disc brakes, elockers as options. The Head Gaskets are hit and miss. I had a '93 that never had HG problems and the truck had 330k miles on it when I sold it. My '95 I have now needed the HG replaced at 200K. My personal opinion is that HG issues are heavily tied to the condition of the cooling system. If the truck has been run hot or overheated occasionally, there is more likelihood of HG issues.
Like others have said, it's not the end of the world if you have to replace a HG and I'd rather do that and have a better drivetrain than have a '91-92 model with a motor that can hardly move the rig down the road.
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It's not a bad idea to spend a little money prior to purchase to have a trusted shop do a compression test and possibly even a leak down test on the motor if you find a truck you're serious about. A compression test will give you a general idea of the condition of the motor (but won't be foolproof). A leak down test will tell even more about the condition of the motor. Compression tests can usually be done for about $50. Leak down tests are more but will give more detailed info.
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These are great trucks. Given your location, I'd expand my search radius outside of Virginia and look for one that isn't dealing with the common rust issues of the east coast. Personally I'd be less concerned about the number of miles and more focused on condition and vehicle history. If you can find a vehicle that's been well maintained and cared for (even if it has higher miles) I think those tend to be better purchases than lower mileage trucks with questionable history or neglect. I've had two 80 series cruisers and neither one was bought in the state where I live. I'm in Utah (where Cruisers are plentiful) but I still travelled for the "right" truck. The first one I had was purchased in Houston, TX, and the current one I purchased Colorado.

 

[zimm]

Youre not gonna want an F engine, get a 93-97 with records, and pay the premium.

All the cool old 4x4's seem to have doubled in the past few years. Not that the new electronic systems aren't better, they are. its that the "analog" days of 4x4 are done, and its like the nostalgia muscle car market was (not nearly as pricey, but i think its the emotion factor doing it). as such, the bottom may never drop back out again, and you can sell it for what you paid. it just make beating on a cool old cruiser, rrc or cj7 harder knowing you cant replace it with a couple g.

 

[babybluebeast]

I wouldnt work about a head gasket. full Head gasket kit is less than $300. If you pull the head, go ahead and get it machined and get new valve guides installed. when those get worn out, that is what causes the engine to smoke on start up for a few minutes. oil drips down through them when it the truck sits and lands on the top of the cylinder head an it burns off on start up. fixing all of this is less than $2K. Also check the rear main seal. it wont leak when sitting, only when running. if the tranny and tcase and sorrounding area are wet with oil, good chance that is an issue to. if the compression is good, I wouldnt worry about the engine. just plan on doing some maintenance.

There are multiple FZJ80's on craigslist across the south east for less than $6K right now. A friend of mine just purchased a mint 1996 with 170K miles for $14K with all service records.

 

[Deshet]

Virgina is not the rust bucket like the Northeast. I have nearly 50 year old vehicles that have been in Virginia since new and are rust free. North of Baltimore Maryland is where the rust belt starts. We get snow here maybe once or twice a year and sometimes go 3-5 years without any at all.

I got a 99 with rear lockers yesterday. It is clean, gargarge kept, and has never been offroad. A Vietnamese lady pushing 60 has had it since 2003 and bought it from the Toyota dealer. I have been looking for a LX, LC, or GX for years with a good ownership and maintence history.

Timing Belt getting done this weekend.