Goal Zero Opinions? Thinking of getting a solar kit from them.

[charliedontsurf]

Hey all, I’m relatively new to overlanding and I’ve been reading non-stop for the past month while I save to outfit my FJ Cruiser for some adventures next year.

I’m trying to find a solution for what to do about having power while camping somewhere for multiple days in a row. I have been looking at the Goal Zero Lithium 1400 battery / inverter in tandem with a Nomad 100 panel. Do you think this would be enough to power an ARB refrigerator for a few days and keep phones charged while running LED lights at night etc...? I’m also interested in the 1400 because I live in FL and it would be nice to run the refrigerator or a window A/C unit for a little while if we lose power during another hurricane etc.

Would you recommend any other setups? Thank you for your input!

 

[tbisaacs]

I ran an ARB50 fridge for 11 days this summer in PNW on a yeti 400 and 100w Renogy


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tarditi]

I have lots of goal0 gear. While there are always cheaper alternatives, sometimes you need to mix-n-match to get the same results you get with their gear. All their stuff works well together and their customer support is great.

Make sure to match your charge (panel array) with your load (fridge, A/C, other accessories) to keep the yeti topped off - there will be sub-optimal charge days too, so be prepared for less than 100% output from your solar when it's cloudy, rainy, etc.

Do contact Goal0 and let them know what you're up to - they may have some recommendations too.

 

[Loco]

Hey Charlie. I'm in the same boat as you. I've been looking at Goal Zero 1000 from Costco. It seems to be a litttle less power for a lot less money. I've been waiting for their travel show to come to a Costco nearby to take a look at them.

Goal Zero recently came out with an attachable gizmo that charges the battery quicker. Was thinking I would wait until they started building the units with them inside from the start. As you can read I'm lacking any skills or knowledge when it comes to solar.

 

[ajmaudio]

If your handy and willing you can save a ton of money putting together something yourself.... and as a bonus it will be better and you will be able to work on it and understand it.

 

[IAm_Not_Lost]

If your handy and willing you can save a ton of money putting together something yourself.... and as a bonus it will be better and you will be able to work on it and understand it.

I am generally of this opinion. I have never heard anything bad about their quality, but they are pretty significantly overpriced for what you’re getting.

Their lithium line of Yeti products are less overpriced than their previous Yeti’s, but their solar panels are still crazy overpriced. I would just look around and watch a few videos of how easy it is to put together your own battery power generator before you make a final decision.

 

[Bear in NM]

Charlie,

I have built two portable solar set-ups, have an ARB, and have a bit of Goal Zero gear. I am a fan of building from scratch to learn and understand, but in the end this path can get pretty expensive. Plug and play is also expensive from Goal Zero, but their stuff is solid.

You will need to do some reading here, but running an AC unit is going to be very difficult, without major storage and solar. I have a glass panel 135 watt, and the Nomad 100 GZ, the one that folds 4 times. I also have a few of the GZ 13's and a small GZ Sherpa , but that is a different application. My 135 panel does a fine job with my ARB 63. I feel that my 100 Nomad is more marginal in warm weather. Guessing you have good Florida sun for great solar gain, but you have the heat to fight for your ARB. trade offs, like anything.

Yes, the GZ panels are pretty stupid money, but I really love my Nomad 100. Folding so small makes transport so much easier. I can hang mine if needed, or toss it on top of my trailer or truck, to lay out. For me, it was a solid investment. I wanted to wait at least one season with my big glass panel to make that decision, and have no regrets.

Craig

 

[charliedontsurf]

I'm still drawn to the idea of the “plug and play” of the Goal Zero Set-Ups. I know they're a much more significant investment up front. I've talked to a couple people who are knowledgeable on building their own set-ups and piecing them together, but like you say it seems that in the end they have almost always ended up spending roughly the same.

Does anyone know if the newer Lithium Yetis can be plugged into a 12V car charger? I've heard mixed things about this and I know the older Yetis can be plugged into a 12V car charger to help them recharge. I just picked up the ARB 37 and I want to add a couple electrical outlets in the back of my FJ to run the fridge and maybe to keep a Goal Zero setup plugged in and charging while the FJ is running.

 

[charliedontsurf]

Fwiw,
Last I known Yeti Lithium not intended directly charging from a car.
Work around may be an car powered inverter, & charge up from that.

However the older gen Goal Zero Yetis will charge from a 12V? As much as I like Lithium that may be a show stopper. I wonder why they would do that...

 

[LivinDaDream]

However the older gen Goal Zero Yetis will charge from a 12V? As much as I like Lithium that may be a show stopper. I wonder why they would do that...

No specific knowledge of GZ units you're mentioning, but unless there is some sort of current limiting circuitry ahead of a Lithium battery, it would likely draw way more current than could be provided by built-in circuits in a vehicle...such as a typical 12V accessory receptacle...blown fuses would be the result. If older units were regular Gel or AGM batteries, they wouldn't likely have that problem.

 

[charliedontsurf]

No specific knowledge of GZ units you're mentioning, but unless there is some sort of current limiting circuitry ahead of a Lithium battery, it would likely draw way more current than could be provided by built-in circuits in a vehicle...such as a typical 12V accessory receptacle...blown fuses would be the result. If older units were regular Gel or AGM batteries, they wouldn't likely have that problem.

Ahh okay that makes sense. Lithium's would be preferable for a home or even an RV or Marine setup. But I think the deep-cycles they're using in the older gen Yetis will do just fine. I'm thinking of going with either the older gen Yeti 1000 or 1250 and buying a Renogy Panel to mount on the hood of my FJC. I've seen pictures of an FJ running around with that setup and it look pretty slick.

 

[LivinDaDream]

I just bought a 100AH Lithium for my truck camper, it was pricey, but in the long run, worth it compared to any of the traditional deep cycle options.

You are probably aware of the main advantages, but I'll hit the key ones.

100AH LiPo=29lbs
50AH LiPo=18lbs
100AH AGM=65lbs

100AH LiPo useable Watt Hours (90% discharge)=1150 Watt Hours
50AH LiPo useable Watt Hours (90% discharge)=600 Watt Hours
100AH AGM useable Watt Hours (50% discharge)=600 Watt Hours

100AH LiPo=$900
50AH LiPo=$575
100AH AGM=$260

LiPo should last well over 2000 cycles, often much higher if DoD is not down to minimum levels.

The reality is that you can get as much useable power out of a 50AH LiPo as a 100AH AGM with 1/3 the weight and a much smaller footprint...something to consider in your FJ.

Look at the Renogy Eclipse 100W panel...smaller (41"x21") than most of the other 100W panels and high efficiency. I have 4 of them and very pleased with the output and quality of construction. If you do mount on the hood, I'd make it easily removable so you can stand it up in the sun somewhere and optimize the orientation during the day...makes a big difference in power generation.

Just a thought.

 

[charliedontsurf]

I just bought a 100AH Lithium for my truck camper, it was pricey, but in the long run, worth it compared to any of the traditional deep cycle options.

You are probably aware of the main advantages, but I'll hit the key ones.

100AH LiPo=29lbs
50AH LiPo=18lbs
100AH AGM=65lbs

100AH LiPo useable Watt Hours (90% discharge)=1150 Watt Hours
50AH LiPo useable Watt Hours (90% discharge)=600 Watt Hours
100AH AGM useable Watt Hours (50% discharge)=600 Watt Hours

100AH LiPo=$900
50AH LiPo=$575
100AH AGM=$260

LiPo should last well over 2000 cycles, often much higher if DoD is not down to minimum levels.

The reality is that you can get as much useable power out of a 50AH LiPo as a 100AH AGM with 1/3 the weight and a much smaller footprint...something to consider in your FJ.

Look at the Renogy Eclipse 100W panel...smaller (41"x21") than most of the other 100W panels and high efficiency. I have 4 of them and very pleased with the output and quality of construction. If you do mount on the hood, I'd make it easily removable so you can stand it up in the sun somewhere and optimize the orientation during the day...makes a big difference in power generation.

Just a thought.

Yea that is certainly the aspect of the Lithium's that make them so appealing... I'm wondering if I could charge one of the newer Goal Zero Yeti Lithiums from a Rear 115V AC outlet while I'm driving? And then I could run my ARB37 off either the car battery or the Goal Zero Yeti Lithium.

1) Car charges the Goal Zero while I'm driving when it is plugged in and runs the fridge.
2) Car turned off (camping) I can run the fridge and lights off either the car battery or the Goal Zero Yeti Lithium.
3) Renogy 100W panel mounted on hood and wired directly to my car battery to help keep it topped off.

Am I missing something? Or is there an easier way to accomplish this?

 

[Bear in NM]

Charlie,

Yes, that would work. One thing you will find on this board is that a lot of folks put a premium on efficiency in all things. DC to AC to DC is not the most efficient method, but doable.

There are threads on inverters and electronics, pertaining to pure sine v. modified sine. I decided with my Arb, the cost was enough to not argue/debate the points, but just purchase a nice pure sine inverter. If I had a Yeti, that would only reinforce my decision.

Craig

 

[charliedontsurf]

Charlie,

Yes, that would work. One thing you will find on this board is that a lot of folks put a premium on efficiency in all things. DC to AC to DC is not the most efficient method, but doable.

There are threads on inverters and electronics, pertaining to pure sine v. modified sine. I decided with my Arb, the cost was enough to not argue/debate the points, but just purchase a nice pure sine inverter. If I had a Yeti, that would only reinforce my decision.

Craig

You will have to excuse my ignorance (because it is just that)... If there is a simpler method than what I described can you detail it below for me?