Extended Range Fueling Options: Opinions Needed

Which extended range system is best?

  • 1) Gravity feed aux tank

    Votes: 6 28.6%
  • 2) Dual tanks

    Votes: 11 52.4%
  • 3) Cell with factory pump

    Votes: 3 14.3%
  • 4) Cell with external pump

    Votes: 6 28.6%

  • Total voters
    21

Bozman1

New member
Ive seen that before. For some reason in my mind I keep wanting to think that it is a bit smaller in capacity haha. I like the simplistic idea and 13 gallons would be a decent amount but the issue I have is that my swing out tire carrier is already heavily loaded down and I worry that this would just be too much. I leave my tailgate open with support at camp because it has a dropdown table and I was even paranoid about a 4 gallon rotopax let alone 13 gallons haha. I don't quite think a custom tank is in the mix if I can get good and reliable for less than 700 ish.
 

downhill

Adventurer
I plan to add a second tank to my Tacoma. I like the second tank idea better because it distributes weight better, and I would probably run it empty unless really needed. Toyota put the battery and the fuel tank on the drivers side, resulting in what is known as the "taco lean".
I have a scan gauge so I always know how much gas is in my tank down to a couple of tenths. I will wait till my main tank gets low enough to take the whole transfer and do it all at once. My system will have an audible alarm that goes off when the pump is on and the tank is empty. Activating the pump will also open a "normally closed" solenoid. Mostly, I will be doing this transfer during a stop, so I can listen and watch.
I've had these systems before, and they are great. I also had a second branch to the valve, with a length of fuel line, that allowed me to pump gas into other equipment. I used 3/8 fuel line for the hose, and kept a 3/8 stainless bolt stuck in the end to keep dust out.
 

javajoe79

Fabricator
I think you’re mostly overthinking things. Keep it simple and buy one or two off the shelf aluminum tanks from Summit. They’re pretty cheap and they come with senders, supply/return fittings and vents with rollover valves. Just connect them with a hose at the bottom to equalize them and use an external pump of your choice.
 
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BPD53

Guest
I think you're mostly overthinking things. Keep it simple and buy one or two off the shelf aluminum tanks from Summit. They're pretty cheap and they come with senders, supply/return fittings and vents with rollover valves. Just connect them with a hose at the bottom to equalize them and use an external pump of your choice.

I agree with the above comment.

I've used mine for tens of thousands of miles with no issues. Simple and relatively cheap. I think I'm around $600 ready to roll. I tapped into the factory filler neck with a t junction barbed fitting. The tank came with a roll over valve. The weight of fuel is significant, but everything in life is a compromise. I have a fuel gauge in the cab for the aux tank. I can fuel while driving or while stationary as long as the key is on. I've never had issues with leaking or fumes. I check it after each trip and it's been a great mod.

I also added a grounding strap to the truck frame just to be safe. I've read a lot about fuel cans and plastic bed liners.
 

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Dan Grec

Expedition Leader
Ive seen that before. For some reason in my mind I keep wanting to think that it is a bit smaller in capacity haha. I like the simplistic idea and 13 gallons would be a decent amount but the issue I have is that my swing out tire carrier is already heavily loaded down and I worry that this would just be too much. I leave my tailgate open with support at camp because it has a dropdown table and I was even paranoid about a 4 gallon rotopax let alone 13 gallons haha. I don't quite think a custom tank is in the mix if I can get good and reliable for less than 700 ish.

I have the AEV tire carrier on my Jeep, and I always, always lave the rear tailgate open at camp (it's my kitchen too).

Even with the titan 13 gal full, and the 34x10.5r17 spare on a steel wheel, and a hi-lift, maxtrax and a shovel, the tire carrier has never moved in a fraction.
It's rock solid, and handles the weight easily.

Again, for the price, I think the Titan is extremely hard to beat.

-Dan
 

Bozman1

New member
I think you’re mostly overthinking things. Keep it simple and buy one or two off the shelf aluminum tanks from Summit. They’re pretty cheap and they come with senders, supply/return fittings and vents with rollover valves. Just connect them with a hose at the bottom to equalize them and use an external pump of your choice.

Yeah I really think this is the ticket. Then I can find a good tank that fits in the best location whatever the size may be, and like you said its ready to go other than the pump and plumbing.

I agree with the above comment.

I've used mine for tens of thousands of miles with no issues. Simple and relatively cheap. I think I'm around $600 ready to roll. I tapped into the factory filler neck with a t junction barbed fitting. The tank came with a roll over valve. The weight of fuel is significant, but everything in life is a compromise. I have a fuel gauge in the cab for the aux tank. I can fuel while driving or while stationary as long as the key is on. I've never had issues with leaking or fumes. I check it after each trip and it's been a great mod.

I also added a grounding strap to the truck frame just to be safe. I've read a lot about fuel cans and plastic bed liners.

I wouldn't honestly see a need to fuel while driving unless I am dying haha. But still convenient. What pump did you use for yours? And are you using fittings of sorts or barbs and clamps?

I have dual fuel tanks on 2 vehicles....

1. sharing a fuel gauge is no good... at a glance you will want to be able to see how much fuel you have in each tank... so dual fuel gauges are a must and a big advantage over a shared gauge

2. use the aux tank with an external transfer pump, to move fuel into the main tank... this will ensure your electronics system (main fuel gauge, warning lights etc..) remains happy and isn’t warning you of fuel system errors...

3. what happy joe said is correct, make sure you have a timer with an alarm, when transferring fuel... you will forget...I use my smart phone and I know each quarter tank (of the main tank) takes about 5 minutes to fill... so set your timer, every time... yes, I have accidentally dumped fuel... not a fun thing...

4. Keep a siphon hose on hand, in case your transfer pump fails for any reason... that way, you can still transfer the fuel from the aux tank to the main tank manually if the need arises

Yeah the siphon hose is a good option. One reason I was toying with the idea of duals and a switch is because I could get another factory pump so if my main pump failed I wasn't stranded. I wasn't ever thinking of sharing a fuel gage, I don't even know how that would be accomplished haha. I just wanted to be able to continue using my factory gage so I didn't just always have my gas light on. Adding a second gauge isn't an issue if the original was still working as well. And the timing thing does worry me a bit as I am quite forgetful but the tank I had in mind is only 15 gallons and my main is 19 so IF I refuel below 1/4 tank it SHOULDN'T overfill... IF... ha.

I have the AEV tire carrier on my Jeep, and I always, always lave the rear tailgate open at camp (it's my kitchen too).

Even with the titan 13 gal full, and the 34x10.5r17 spare on a steel wheel, and a hi-lift, maxtrax and a shovel, the tire carrier has never moved in a fraction.
It's rock solid, and handles the weight easily.

Again, for the price, I think the Titan is extremely hard to beat.

-Dan

Thanks for all the input! I guess I am just cautious when it comes to taking care of my Jeep. We have about the same setup only my tire is a 35 and possibly a 37 in the future. Its a dual sheer hinge well overbuilt but my current mounting setup is maybe allowing it to shift a bit. That will be addressed in the frame modifications. This option would however allow me to utilize my entire bed for other stuff though.
 
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BPD53

Guest
I wouldn't honestly see a need to fuel while driving unless I am dying haha. But still convenient. What pump did you use for yours? And are you using fittings of sorts or barbs and clamps?

I used cheap fuel hose and barbed fittings with stainless hose clamps. The installation only took about 2-3 hours. Measure ten times before you order anything.

Here is a link to the pump I purchased:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIQ5DG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I must admit that I would be apprehensive about placing a fuel cell in a passenger compartment. I have no doubt you will come up with a solution for your particular situation.

Good luck and and let us know how it went.
 

SilicaRich

Wandering Inverted
LRA makes an auxillary tank for TJs that adds 45L but expect to spend somewhere north of $1500. I think the normal price is around $1000 or so but they require a pallet to ship from Australia so there are some hefty shipping costs.

They claim that the tank does not require a skid because it is reinforced but I would invest in a custom one for piece of mind.
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
I have a dual tank system on my Uhaul build. It's a 60 gallon poly boat tank between the frame rails as a reservoir. I chose poly because of frame twist, it's 52 inches long. From the reservoir it goes through a fuel water separator to an AEM inline external pump. After the pump is an AEM inline 10 micron filter. From the filter it goes to a manual stainless ball valve that directs the flow to a 21 gallon fuel cell or a hand nozzle for filling bikes, etc. The 21 gallon fuel cell has it's own AEM inline pump and AEM inline 10 micron filter. The return line goes back to the fuel cell. Both tanks have their own filler neck and they both vent to a fuel air separator/rollover valve that has a common hose to the charcoal canister under the hood. I carry a spare pump, and you can switch the lines around in a worse case scenario. The transfer tank pump is on a momentary switch. The 21 gallon fuel cell pump is wired through an inertia switch that shuts it down after significant g-forces.

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steelhd

Observer
I use one of these. Not 40 gallons but it holds 24.5 and is bulletproof.
https://genright.com/products/jeep-tj-lj-extended-range-gas-tank-skid-plate-24-5-gal.html
GST2003-1_GOOD-1200__40708.1461776617.1280.1280.jpg
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
'hold' nothing. 6-7' of 1/2" ID clear PVC hose and a magical little $5 device called a SuperSiphon. It works like a reverse snorkel. You won't even have to take the jugs out of their rack. Set the hose, give the device end a couple vertical shakes in the fuel container to get the flow started, then do something else for ~4mins while 20L flows into your tank.

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The SuperSiphon also obviates those atrociously lame CARB/EPA-mandated guaranteed spill nozzles.
 

MOguy

Explorer
Hey all! I have a question and seek advice. There is no right or wrong answer. This may be a bit long so bear with me.

To begin: I know this may be more of a Jeep related question as my vehicle is a 97 Jeep TJ with the factory 4.0 I6 with some major body modifications allowing this :coffee:. I do want to keep the factory gage and emissions in working order! But maybe people with other vehicle types have done something similar and can share their experience.

I am looking at doing some major modifications that include my fuel storage to extend my currently sad range. Lets get this out of the way. I am fully aware that I can just "carry" more fuel in canisters and such but I am doing something different. I am hoping to double my capacity to maybe even up to 42 gallons of fuel and I want advice on the best way to orchestrate this. Obviously the cheaper the better, but there are two major factors for this build: Reliability, and the availability of parts when it does fail.

Here are my options:

1) Keep factory fuel tank between frame rails for main tank (and lose departure angle) and add in a second gravity feed auxiliary tank in the cargo area. Obviously I wouldn't fuel while driving and refueling would possibly take some time. This would be the cheapest option with the cost of a tank and extended fuel lines (needed anyway) and as reliable as the factory fuel pump (not at all, but lifetime warranty and easy to find). Downside is time to refuel and I am not sure of the safety factory involved with this type of system.

2) Keep factory tank and wire in a secondary tank/pump so it is like the older trucks with dual tanks. I would add a second fuel gauge and a tank selector switch. A bit more expensive but has the cool factor I guess? Haha. Cost of the AUX tank plus pump, gauge, plumbing and such items. I would have to figure out a pump/regulator combo as well.

More options in next post...

I had an old 300SD that had a setup similar to your option 1. It worked just fine. I say keep it simple and go for option 1.

There is no room under your TJ to go wider, or longer. You can only go up. The frame will limit how wide. You rear bumper will limit how far back and you rear axle (when you cycle you suspension) will limit how far forward.

NOW if you plan on doing major fab work and extending your frame and body (think TJ unlimited) you could go further back with a bigger tank and maybe not go into the body at all. If that is a possibility then that is what I would want to do.
 
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Beowulf

Expedition Leader
Oh, and if you did all the above, you'd be carrying 48gal of gas.

Genright = 24
LR = 11
Titan = 13

OEM = 19ish
 

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