Corey's 2007 FJ Cruiser built for expedtion/overland, & daily driver
- Thread starter Corey
- Start date
SWITAWI
Doesn't Get Out Enough
Yeah, firewood will eat those trash bags. I don't use my Trasharoo for firewood, just pile it on my hitch carrier. I can generally find plenty to burn laying around here in South Texas but we're also likely to be under a burn ban on any random weekend anyway, lol.
Corey
OverCamping Specialist
Yep, good old burn bans.
We were planning on camping next to a nice river in a few weeks on US forest service land where I normally go, but if there is a burn ban in effect (great chance with the dry/hot weather here in Western Washington) then we will go to Mount Rainier National Park where I have gone many a time.
You can always have a campfire there, different rules in the National Park.
Corey
OverCamping Specialist
Odyssey 34R-PC1500 Extreme Battery Installed 7-28-2017
I was on my second Toyota battery, and it recently started to get weak.
The original Panasonic one from July of 2006 ran for seven years, and kept the ARB fridge going too on camping trips, as the fridge was not wired to the aux battery.
Now the second Toyota battery lasted around four years also running the old ARB fridge at times.
My new fridge, the National Luna Weekender 50 Fridge/Freezer is wired directly to the auxiliary battery, and I think that is was ended the Redtop that was in there, as that was also a starting battery.
The new fridge is doing much better on the Optima Yellowtop since it is a deep cycle one.
Back on topic...after mucho research of what Toyota owners were running for a starting battery, I went with the Odyssey 34R-PC1500 AGM.
The battery to get years back was the Sears Diehard Platinum, but that went by the wayside, and is no longer available.
The off-road shop I deal with the owner has a 4Runner, and he is running the same Odyssey they put in my rig today.
The Toyota battery was showing around 12.2v when the engine was off, while the new Optima was showing 12.9 to 13v at rest.
The new Odyssey is resting right now after the engine being off for two+ hours is 12.8v, and I am sure it will be better once it is fully charged up from driving more.
The only accessories that will be powered by it will be the two 12v outlets in the rear of the FJ, and the CB, so not really much of a drain on it.
And the winch is wired to the starting battery too.
Yes, it is a jungle under the hood with the two sets of ARB Intensity LED lights, the Rigid rock lights, the Blue Sea auxiliary fuse box in the passenger footwell side panel (it powers the CB and twin 12v outlets back in the stern), the wires for the solar charge controller for the Powerfilm 60 watt solar panel for the starting battery, and maybe a few other things such as the alarm, dual 12v gauge in the cab, etc.
Later in the near future the shop will be installing another Blue Sea box or if there is something better and wire it to the new battery, and then run most of the accessories off of it, thus clearing up so many wires going to the positive terminal now.
I thought about one of those Source controllers where all of your accessories switches are built into it, but I already have the light switches hard wired and mounted to the rig inside, and I want to keep it that way for now.
Once the new box gets installed, it will look a lot tidier under there for sure.
Links:
ODYSSEY Auto/LTV Battery Model 34R-PC1500T
(Group 34 with tin-plated brass SAE automotive posts - reversed terminals)
Auburn Car Repair & Offroad
Pics:
Closeup of the new battery
Showing both batteries, and yes Virginia, it is a mess on the new battery which will be rectified before too long.
In fact after I post this I am going to call up John the shop owner and ask which would be the best box to go with.
The Blue Sea auxiliary box mentioned earlier that is in my footwell kick panel
I was on my second Toyota battery, and it recently started to get weak.
The original Panasonic one from July of 2006 ran for seven years, and kept the ARB fridge going too on camping trips, as the fridge was not wired to the aux battery.
Now the second Toyota battery lasted around four years also running the old ARB fridge at times.
My new fridge, the National Luna Weekender 50 Fridge/Freezer is wired directly to the auxiliary battery, and I think that is was ended the Redtop that was in there, as that was also a starting battery.
The new fridge is doing much better on the Optima Yellowtop since it is a deep cycle one.
Back on topic...after mucho research of what Toyota owners were running for a starting battery, I went with the Odyssey 34R-PC1500 AGM.
The battery to get years back was the Sears Diehard Platinum, but that went by the wayside, and is no longer available.
The off-road shop I deal with the owner has a 4Runner, and he is running the same Odyssey they put in my rig today.
The Toyota battery was showing around 12.2v when the engine was off, while the new Optima was showing 12.9 to 13v at rest.
The new Odyssey is resting right now after the engine being off for two+ hours is 12.8v, and I am sure it will be better once it is fully charged up from driving more.
The only accessories that will be powered by it will be the two 12v outlets in the rear of the FJ, and the CB, so not really much of a drain on it.
And the winch is wired to the starting battery too.
Yes, it is a jungle under the hood with the two sets of ARB Intensity LED lights, the Rigid rock lights, the Blue Sea auxiliary fuse box in the passenger footwell side panel (it powers the CB and twin 12v outlets back in the stern), the wires for the solar charge controller for the Powerfilm 60 watt solar panel for the starting battery, and maybe a few other things such as the alarm, dual 12v gauge in the cab, etc.
Later in the near future the shop will be installing another Blue Sea box or if there is something better and wire it to the new battery, and then run most of the accessories off of it, thus clearing up so many wires going to the positive terminal now.
I thought about one of those Source controllers where all of your accessories switches are built into it, but I already have the light switches hard wired and mounted to the rig inside, and I want to keep it that way for now.
Once the new box gets installed, it will look a lot tidier under there for sure.
Links:
ODYSSEY Auto/LTV Battery Model 34R-PC1500T
(Group 34 with tin-plated brass SAE automotive posts - reversed terminals)
Auburn Car Repair & Offroad
Pics:
Closeup of the new battery
Showing both batteries, and yes Virginia, it is a mess on the new battery which will be rectified before too long.
In fact after I post this I am going to call up John the shop owner and ask which would be the best box to go with.
The Blue Sea auxiliary box mentioned earlier that is in my footwell kick panel
How much is a Trasheroo on your side of the world ? Here in France, it's really expensive (70-80€
...
Corey
OverCamping Specialist
Gosh it was a few years ago, I forget what I paid for it.How much is a Trasheroo on your side of the world ? Here in France, it's really expensive (70-80€
Have you looked on the USA site to see what they go for now?
Corey
OverCamping Specialist
Goose Gear Cargo Drawers Installed 10-22-2017
The cargobox I have had in my FJ Cruiser since day one was actually made for my '91 4Runner by a carpenter at Boeing.
It is heavy, very thick, and not a lot of room inside of it, but it has done the job since July of 2006 for the FJ.
Lately I have been thinking of a new drawer setup that is light weight, durable, bigger inside, and good looking
The Goose Gear stuff caught my attention, but it is not cheap, but it is very well made, and a lot of folk's are running their stuff in their rigs.
I contacted Brain there, and began a dialogue of what size we could come up with to work best in my FJ Cruiser.
At a future date I will get the FJC plate system that bolts down in the back of the FJ utilizing the cargo hold down bolts.
The cargobox will tie in with it, and also bolt to it making it much safer.
At first I was thinking of getting two of the taller drawer modules you can see listed on their site, but for them to work being so tall, you cannot have anything on the rear door like I do, as then the door would not close.
With the shorter cargobox, but still taller than my old one, the stuff on the rear door will not interfere with the door hitting the new box.
The new box is 38 3/8" wide by 27" deep, and 8" tall.
It also sits back further giving me longer drawers than the old box.
The old box is 37" wide by 21" deep (only 16" deep on the left side) by 7" tall as seen in the rear of the old 4Runner.
Being made out of thicker wood, a lot of wasted space compared to the new Goose Gear unit.
I also bought the Trekpak at 4" high to create specific sized storage areas within the drawers, and also some heavy duty toolbox drawer liner to put down first to protect the bottom of the drawers, and also to keep gear from sliding around.
At a future date I may add in a Tembo Tusk fridge 28" slide for the right side so I can put the Trail Kitchens chuckbox on it.
This way I can cook on it and use it if I do not want to setup the chuckbox on a camping/picnic table.
Very happy with the way the box turned out, and it sure is nice having a little more room for gear in it.
I will be ordering the FJ Cruiser plate soon to keep the box secure, and also from tipping back when you have both drawers out.
You can see how it tips back in the video below the pictures.
Links:
Goose Gear
Side x Side Drawer Module
FJ Cruiser Plate System
TrekPak 4" x 46" Strip
TrekPak Cut Tool
TrekPak Pins and Tabs
Professional Tool Box Liner and Shelf Liner, Thick 3mm, 18" x 24 feet by Reizen Tech (18" x 24', Black)
Pics:
'Tis a good fit the new Goose Gear cargobox
The TrekPak drawer dividers is very cool to work with, as you can customize individual compartments with it to fit your gear/tools
Picture of the old cargobox above
The cargobox I have had in my FJ Cruiser since day one was actually made for my '91 4Runner by a carpenter at Boeing.
It is heavy, very thick, and not a lot of room inside of it, but it has done the job since July of 2006 for the FJ.
Lately I have been thinking of a new drawer setup that is light weight, durable, bigger inside, and good looking
The Goose Gear stuff caught my attention, but it is not cheap, but it is very well made, and a lot of folk's are running their stuff in their rigs.
I contacted Brain there, and began a dialogue of what size we could come up with to work best in my FJ Cruiser.
At a future date I will get the FJC plate system that bolts down in the back of the FJ utilizing the cargo hold down bolts.
The cargobox will tie in with it, and also bolt to it making it much safer.
At first I was thinking of getting two of the taller drawer modules you can see listed on their site, but for them to work being so tall, you cannot have anything on the rear door like I do, as then the door would not close.
With the shorter cargobox, but still taller than my old one, the stuff on the rear door will not interfere with the door hitting the new box.
The new box is 38 3/8" wide by 27" deep, and 8" tall.
It also sits back further giving me longer drawers than the old box.
The old box is 37" wide by 21" deep (only 16" deep on the left side) by 7" tall as seen in the rear of the old 4Runner.
Being made out of thicker wood, a lot of wasted space compared to the new Goose Gear unit.
I also bought the Trekpak at 4" high to create specific sized storage areas within the drawers, and also some heavy duty toolbox drawer liner to put down first to protect the bottom of the drawers, and also to keep gear from sliding around.
At a future date I may add in a Tembo Tusk fridge 28" slide for the right side so I can put the Trail Kitchens chuckbox on it.
This way I can cook on it and use it if I do not want to setup the chuckbox on a camping/picnic table.
Very happy with the way the box turned out, and it sure is nice having a little more room for gear in it.
I will be ordering the FJ Cruiser plate soon to keep the box secure, and also from tipping back when you have both drawers out.
You can see how it tips back in the video below the pictures.
Links:
Goose Gear
Side x Side Drawer Module
FJ Cruiser Plate System
TrekPak 4" x 46" Strip
TrekPak Cut Tool
TrekPak Pins and Tabs
Professional Tool Box Liner and Shelf Liner, Thick 3mm, 18" x 24 feet by Reizen Tech (18" x 24', Black)
Pics:
'Tis a good fit the new Goose Gear cargobox
The TrekPak drawer dividers is very cool to work with, as you can customize individual compartments with it to fit your gear/tools
Picture of the old cargobox above
Corey
OverCamping Specialist
Goose Gear Phase II FJC Plate Installed 11-18-2017
The Goose Gear FJC Plate System attaches to the floor of the FJC, and the cargobox or any other modules you get from Goose Gear to it to prevent them from sliding around.
We have had tons of rain here, and yesterday when I got home from work I had a break in the rain, so I pulled the cargobox out.
Steps:
(1) This morning I took off the four D rings on the stock rubber/plastic floor in cargo area.
Also pull off the forward threshold, the one that was underneath the rear of the fridge.
You will not be reusing it again.
(2) Unscrew the rear threshold and set it aside, you will reuse this piece.
After removing it, take off the rubber/plastic flooring, you will not reuse it.
(3) Slide in the FJC plate, and position the rear D rings and use the two long bolts and lock washers that take a 5/32" allen wrench.
You may need to slide these around a bit once you put in the cargobox.
The four short 5/32" bolts and lock washers and insert them into the two front risers on the plate.
After tightening all six of the bolts, the plate is now secure.
Make sure you put back on the rear threshold again with the screws.
I have three of those Adventure Tool Company tool rolls, they sure come in handy for organizing your tools, and all three of them fit into the left drawer.
(4) Put in the cargobox without the drawers, and loosen the L shaped brackets inside of the cargobox with the 5/32" allen wrench.
Position the cargobox where you would like it.
I pushed it forward to within about 1" of the 12v plug on the back of the fridge, this will give me room enough if I have to unplug the cable from it.
Once the cargobox is in position slide the L shaped brackets to align up with the holes on the FJC plate.
Tighten up the bolts and lock washers with a 7/16" ratchet wrench of socket, and then tighten all four of the 5/32" screws to secure the L brackets to the sides of the cargobox.
Almost done...
(5) Put the two drawers back in, and you are done.
Since the cargobox is positioned to the far left, I had to take the screw jack and handle out of the left side storage.
I will find a place in the rig to keep them, but I do not think I will have room in the cargobox for them.
I also bought a pack of four tie down module anchors that I can place around the top of my cargobox to secure gear on top with.
They make two sizes.
1/4" for the top of module systems, and 3/4" to insert into the tops of their plate systems.
The latter would be useful if you only have half of your plate system filled with a module, and the other half is open, but you want to secure gear to the top of the plate by tying it down.
Links:
FJ Cruiser Plate System
Module Anchor Pack 1/4" size for the top of cargoboxes or modules
Phase III will consist of the Tembo Tusk standard front pull fridge slide, and it will be used to mount the new Camp Kitchens chuckbox to it.
This way I can use the chuckbox in the rig and cook on top of it if I do not feel like setting up a table outside of the rig.
The Goose Gear FJC Plate System attaches to the floor of the FJC, and the cargobox or any other modules you get from Goose Gear to it to prevent them from sliding around.
We have had tons of rain here, and yesterday when I got home from work I had a break in the rain, so I pulled the cargobox out.
Steps:
(1) This morning I took off the four D rings on the stock rubber/plastic floor in cargo area.
Also pull off the forward threshold, the one that was underneath the rear of the fridge.
You will not be reusing it again.
(2) Unscrew the rear threshold and set it aside, you will reuse this piece.
After removing it, take off the rubber/plastic flooring, you will not reuse it.
(3) Slide in the FJC plate, and position the rear D rings and use the two long bolts and lock washers that take a 5/32" allen wrench.
You may need to slide these around a bit once you put in the cargobox.
The four short 5/32" bolts and lock washers and insert them into the two front risers on the plate.
After tightening all six of the bolts, the plate is now secure.
Make sure you put back on the rear threshold again with the screws.
I have three of those Adventure Tool Company tool rolls, they sure come in handy for organizing your tools, and all three of them fit into the left drawer.
(4) Put in the cargobox without the drawers, and loosen the L shaped brackets inside of the cargobox with the 5/32" allen wrench.
Position the cargobox where you would like it.
I pushed it forward to within about 1" of the 12v plug on the back of the fridge, this will give me room enough if I have to unplug the cable from it.
Once the cargobox is in position slide the L shaped brackets to align up with the holes on the FJC plate.
Tighten up the bolts and lock washers with a 7/16" ratchet wrench of socket, and then tighten all four of the 5/32" screws to secure the L brackets to the sides of the cargobox.
Almost done...
(5) Put the two drawers back in, and you are done.
Since the cargobox is positioned to the far left, I had to take the screw jack and handle out of the left side storage.
I will find a place in the rig to keep them, but I do not think I will have room in the cargobox for them.
I also bought a pack of four tie down module anchors that I can place around the top of my cargobox to secure gear on top with.
They make two sizes.
1/4" for the top of module systems, and 3/4" to insert into the tops of their plate systems.
The latter would be useful if you only have half of your plate system filled with a module, and the other half is open, but you want to secure gear to the top of the plate by tying it down.
Links:
FJ Cruiser Plate System
Module Anchor Pack 1/4" size for the top of cargoboxes or modules
Phase III will consist of the Tembo Tusk standard front pull fridge slide, and it will be used to mount the new Camp Kitchens chuckbox to it.
This way I can use the chuckbox in the rig and cook on top of it if I do not feel like setting up a table outside of the rig.
charliedontsurf
Observer
Love this build thread! So much good info.
Corey
OverCamping Specialist
Thanks Charlie!
Corey
OverCamping Specialist
Thanks Nic!