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Thread: Propex HS2000 installation discussion - ducting

  1. #1
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    Default Propex HS2000 installation discussion - ducting

    Hi All,
    I have been using a portable Propex HS2000 to heat two RTTs for about a year now. This is my first winter with it. This spring and summer, I've simply run the supplied hot-air duct into the tent (through a zippered opening) and let the heater draw return air from the outside... and it has been good enough.

    Winter is different. When the unit fires up and shuts down, it operates the fan for a few minutes before and after supplying heat for safety. Since I do not have a return-air running between the heater and tent, it is pumping -25º air into the tent while cycling. That's bad. I should have thought of this and didn't.

    I need to come up with a solution for both return and supply air for the Propex and the units arrive with a shrimpy little bit of 60 mm hose. There are a lot of options for 60 mm duct on the Interwebs, but not a lot of specs from Propex nor ideas in general.

    I'm wondering:
    • What max temperature rating do I need to plan for (when the hot air leaves the Propex)?
    • Does anyone know if a cost-effective option exists for an industrial-like 60 mm high-temp hose with integral insulation?
    • Is anyone aware of some sort of boot or fitting that I could permanently install in the soft part of an RTT to attach the hose to (to avoid running hoses through zippered doors)? Twist-lock or rubber friction type fittings would be awesome.
    • Please keep in mind that my hoses will be outside. The heater is protected in an enclosure and I would like to have some sort of ducting that can get wet and isn't required to be dried (like the hose that ships with it).


    Input would be awesome. I can't be the first guy to check into this stuff. Thanks.
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  2. #2
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    Mcmaster carr should have all you need

  3. #3
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    I plan on installing actual floor vents in my CVT Denali Extended Summit RTT. On side with return and one output. Just connect the hoses to the bottom of the tents floor when needed.

    Does the heater keep the RTT comfortable in weather -25? That’s pretty impressive if it does without using a return air duct to recirculate heated air.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCDriller View Post
    I plan on installing actual floor vents in my CVT Denali Extended Summit RTT. On side with return and one output. Just connect the hoses to the bottom of the tents floor when needed.

    Does the heater keep the RTT comfortable in weather -25? That’s pretty impressive if it does without using a return air duct to recirculate heated air.
    Well, that was a typo. I meant 25ºF . It keeps it nice and warm, but only when it's burning gas. The minutes before and after pretty much undo the heating effect. I think that having a return would dramatically reduce the cycling frequency.

    I have considered installing the Propex in the Jeep and permanently running the vents up through the fiberglass roof, then through the fiberglass floor of the RTT, but cutting 2.5 inch holes in the RTT worries me. I'm a big guy, and the holes will certainly weaken the structure of the tent. These holes would need to be cut through the mattress too. Good chance of smothering either the supply or return with a blanket and popping the limit switches. Not to mention dropping pocket knives and stuff down the ducts. Maybe a removable pipe with an elbow could be inserted in the holes when the RTT is in use (to raise the duct above the people and stuff). When closing the tent, take them out and leave them in the tent? This would allow you to direct the air flow for the supply as well. Hmmmmm.

    Could wind up going that route but it would take a big bite out of the resale value for both the RTT and the JK.
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  5. #5
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    Floor vents are an interesting idea... i was looking at installing a Propex in my horizon (replacing the jerry can holders with a single box and the propex in it).. you almost would need a snorkel for the vents but if placed at the edge of the tent i should clear the tent frame when folding and the mattress sould just smush in around it or just need a small cut to make it work i bet.
    Fit should be pretty easy to test, duck tape a couple of 12oz cans to the floor where you want the vents. and i be structurally it wouldn't matter since its on the edge of the frame away from the "load" so to speak.

    -for longer hoses something like this may work (with a hose clamp or an adapter) I.D is 2.5" https://ducting.com/collections/auto...oducts/neo-300
    also all webastco and espar heaters use 60mm ducting - so west marine is a source for it and the outlets as well
    Last edited by rlynch356; 12-06-2017 at 02:00 AM.
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    Honestly sounds like you need warmer sleeping bags and or a camper.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by javajoe79 View Post
    Honestly sounds like you need warmer sleeping bags and or a camper.
    I have several of each. This is my "quick and dirty" camping rig for Friday night trips after work. I'm not a big fan of pulling either trailer on snow or ice.

    This duct looks like it shrinks up in size, and might hold up again some rain. But my god...the price!
    Last edited by jacobconroy; 12-06-2017 at 03:54 AM.
    Jeep JK 2-Door built thread
    '07 Jeep JK Wrangler Sahara
    '16 Subaru Outback
    '12 Adventure Trailers Chaser
    Eezi-Awn Globetrotter
    James Baroud Espace
    JeepKitchen
    Propex H2000

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  9. #9
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    You can make insulated sleeves to slide over hoses. Could even be zippered, Much like a small diameter sleeping bag.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobconroy View Post
    Well, that was a typo. I meant 25ºF . It keeps it nice and warm, but only when it's burning gas. The minutes before and after pretty much undo the heating effect. I think that having a return would dramatically reduce the cycling frequency.

    I have considered installing the Propex in the Jeep and permanently running the vents up through the fiberglass roof, then through the fiberglass floor of the RTT, but cutting 2.5 inch holes in the RTT worries me. I'm a big guy, and the holes will certainly weaken the structure of the tent. These holes would need to be cut through the mattress too. Good chance of smothering either the supply or return with a blanket and popping the limit switches. Not to mention dropping pocket knives and stuff down the ducts. Maybe a removable pipe with an elbow could be inserted in the holes when the RTT is in use (to raise the duct above the people and stuff). When closing the tent, take them out and leave them in the tent? This would allow you to direct the air flow for the supply as well. Hmmmmm.

    Could wind up going that route but it would take a big bite out of the resale value for both the RTT and the JK.
    I understand the concerns with the floor vents my idea was to cut and re-sow the mattress so it had a couple inches of room around the vents. Also, my tent is mounted on a trailer so I got a HUGE tent, the CVT Denalli. It's about 2x larger than the one I had on my Jeep. My wife, kid and I can sleep in it and get no where near the edges, it's 12" wider than a king (87x96"). Your idea with elbows is good, I just plan on using a straight piece of pipe that is a little taller than the matress then mounting one of those 4" directional vent covers on it to keep stuff out and direct the air towards the center of the tent.

    For me resale isn't an issue because the tent and the trailer will be sold as a package and who wouldn't want a heated tent?! No way I'd cut a hole in the roof of my Jeep.
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