2017 4x4 144" SprincentVanGo
- Thread starter freshlikesushi
- Start date
LMarshall73
Adventurer
Looks good, Grant!
freshlikesushi
Free Candy
SprinterData144SideView by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
OV_144_OVERHEAD_DRAWING_F by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
freshlikesushi
Free Candy
Pretttttty good amount of work done today.
No video from this day, mainly because it was just alot of cleaning, laying peel and stick floor, and tidying up loose ends so i can actually start building some more stuff tomorrow (mainly battery compartment and right hand wheel well cover and electrical panel in the rear)
First up was making sure my battery fit where i measured and hoped that it would
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
like a gloveeeeeeee
the next thing was to completely strip out the back. Pull the floor and insulate it. After alot of thinking, i went with a simple 3/4" rigid foam layer under the floor and dropped it back down. I made washer pucks to space the floor as it should when i tighten the tie downs back down, and went at it.
After i got it back in, i started laying the floor down. I used this product http://amzn.to/2FY3Pjn. It took 4 boxes exactly to do the whole truck in a 144"
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Threw back in the Trail Kitchen unit and started on buttoning it up. You can see the unfinished edge. I will be ordering 1x2 angle aluminum angle in order to make a trim in the side and rear.
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Most of the electrical panels are installed except for some USB and 12V chargers
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
These are the LBue sea switch panel, Victron Smart Battery Monitor and inverter remote. The water heater will run on the inverter, when its turned on (obviously) and also when shore power is plugged in (automatically, along with the battery charger topping off batteries).
Speaking of shore power. I made that hole also.
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
No video from this day, mainly because it was just alot of cleaning, laying peel and stick floor, and tidying up loose ends so i can actually start building some more stuff tomorrow (mainly battery compartment and right hand wheel well cover and electrical panel in the rear)
First up was making sure my battery fit where i measured and hoped that it would
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickrlike a gloveeeeeeee
the next thing was to completely strip out the back. Pull the floor and insulate it. After alot of thinking, i went with a simple 3/4" rigid foam layer under the floor and dropped it back down. I made washer pucks to space the floor as it should when i tighten the tie downs back down, and went at it.
After i got it back in, i started laying the floor down. I used this product http://amzn.to/2FY3Pjn. It took 4 boxes exactly to do the whole truck in a 144"
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on FlickrThrew back in the Trail Kitchen unit and started on buttoning it up. You can see the unfinished edge. I will be ordering 1x2 angle aluminum angle in order to make a trim in the side and rear.
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on FlickrMost of the electrical panels are installed except for some USB and 12V chargers
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on FlickrThese are the LBue sea switch panel, Victron Smart Battery Monitor and inverter remote. The water heater will run on the inverter, when its turned on (obviously) and also when shore power is plugged in (automatically, along with the battery charger topping off batteries).
Speaking of shore power. I made that hole also.
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
freshlikesushi
Free Candy
I have a really, really bad habit of just taking a bunch of metal and figuring it out as i go. The battery and wheel well compartment are no different. I have a couple sticks of 1"x1"x1/4" thick square aluminum 6061. I like the weight of aluminum but it is harder and more expensive to weld. Mainly because the machines needed cost much more than a steel mig or tig. Luckily we have a full workshop here at my place of business i get to play in. So the work continues!
This ended up being a 54" long assembly. Its designed to screw into the factory wood floor, and then with riv nuts into the vehicle side structure in about 4 or 5 places. The open areas have tabs welded (4 per section evenly spaced) so that I can use nutserts and button head hex machine screws to tighten them down. Will be using cabinet grade 1/2" wood, on top of the 1/4" tabs to have a 1/4" recess on the wood to the aluminum. Should reveal nicely.
First step was to make a frame. You see how I screwed up and left an exposed edge (because I dont plan well remember) I will end up filling that in, welding it and sanding it smooth. Will never know)
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
test fit success.
It doesn't cover the whole wheel well because the trail kitchen needs an inch for the pin to move, so ill just have to trim around it and deal with it. there is about an inch and a half of space between the trail kitchen and the frame.
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
main top corner brace welded and checked for fitment
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
battery separation bar for the battery access panel
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
I hate drilling holes. We have an ironworker that makes quick work of cutting, bending and punching up to 1/4" stainless. 1/4" Aluminum was cake here
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
and the final piece all welded up and cleaned up. Tabs are there like i mentioned for setting and mounting the wood to. I'm deathly sick right now, so i wont be doing any work today on it, but ill get the other side finished later this week and also another one for the water tank as well.
This ended up being a 54" long assembly. Its designed to screw into the factory wood floor, and then with riv nuts into the vehicle side structure in about 4 or 5 places. The open areas have tabs welded (4 per section evenly spaced) so that I can use nutserts and button head hex machine screws to tighten them down. Will be using cabinet grade 1/2" wood, on top of the 1/4" tabs to have a 1/4" recess on the wood to the aluminum. Should reveal nicely.
First step was to make a frame. You see how I screwed up and left an exposed edge (because I dont plan well remember) I will end up filling that in, welding it and sanding it smooth. Will never know)
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickrtest fit success.
It doesn't cover the whole wheel well because the trail kitchen needs an inch for the pin to move, so ill just have to trim around it and deal with it. there is about an inch and a half of space between the trail kitchen and the frame.
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickrmain top corner brace welded and checked for fitment
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickrbattery separation bar for the battery access panel
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on FlickrI hate drilling holes. We have an ironworker that makes quick work of cutting, bending and punching up to 1/4" stainless. 1/4" Aluminum was cake here
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickrand the final piece all welded up and cleaned up. Tabs are there like i mentioned for setting and mounting the wood to. I'm deathly sick right now, so i wont be doing any work today on it, but ill get the other side finished later this week and also another one for the water tank as well.
freshlikesushi
Free Candy
BOOM
Electric all done (except screwing up a power strip and solar wires, and some 12v and usb plug tap ins)
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
sorting out all the connections and making sure everything is working properly and hooked up correctly so the victron battery monitor can read charging amps and used amps to accurately work
And all together! Waiting on some longer stainless 10-24 to come in to fasten the panels down all the way. but other than that, electrical is golden.
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Electric all done (except screwing up a power strip and solar wires, and some 12v and usb plug tap ins)
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickrsorting out all the connections and making sure everything is working properly and hooked up correctly so the victron battery monitor can read charging amps and used amps to accurately work
And all together! Waiting on some longer stainless 10-24 to come in to fasten the panels down all the way. but other than that, electrical is golden.
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
guidolyons
Addicted to Gear Oil
That Trail Kitchen is pretty slick. Hadn't seen those before.
freshlikesushi
Free Candy
And another large step forward.
The Flarespace side window flares have arrived, been painted and now at least one of them installed.
http://www.flarespace.com/
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
They pretty much add in like 6" or so allowing you to put a double bed side to side in the van. This saves about 25 inches, extending only 54 inches into the van instead of 76ish. Game changing in a small chassis vehicle (well, relatively right?)
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
The construction of these things are amazing. One of the beefiest fiberglass parts I have ever handled. When i did a test fit, they actually required zero fitment modification. Unbelievable testament to the team putting these together
Anyways, what is the first thing you have to do when you want to widen your van? Cut into your very expensive van with an air saw.
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
The van has basically a template already there that you follow. Cut out the center supports and follow the line. Took about 30 minutes to cut it out being careful. Pretty easy actually.
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
From there you have to smooth out the cuts, debur them and make it pretty.
You then have to take some scotch brite, and scuff up the flange area (which you can see when you mock it up). This ensures the great adhesion you can expect from the 3M adhesive they include. Clean it with something after (i used mineral spirits, you can use alcohol as well, whatever)
The next step is the clean the flange on the flares and drop the adhesive on there.
After that, it's just a matter of popping it on, and making so it doesn't move.
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
After that you run a bead on the inside flange and smooth it all out and let it dry. After about 4 hours it wasnt moving anymore, but i let it cure overnight before driving so there would be no issue. Took about 4-5 hours total. Now to do the other side...
Also this week, hopefully, ill trim out the inside of the flares, build the water tank bracket over the driver rear wheel well, build the cabinet for the dometic fridge, and put the solar on the rack. Or i'll be lazy and not do anything. Depends on how i feel lol
The Flarespace side window flares have arrived, been painted and now at least one of them installed.
http://www.flarespace.com/
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on FlickrThey pretty much add in like 6" or so allowing you to put a double bed side to side in the van. This saves about 25 inches, extending only 54 inches into the van instead of 76ish. Game changing in a small chassis vehicle (well, relatively right?)
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on FlickrThe construction of these things are amazing. One of the beefiest fiberglass parts I have ever handled. When i did a test fit, they actually required zero fitment modification. Unbelievable testament to the team putting these together
Anyways, what is the first thing you have to do when you want to widen your van? Cut into your very expensive van with an air saw.
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on FlickrThe van has basically a template already there that you follow. Cut out the center supports and follow the line. Took about 30 minutes to cut it out being careful. Pretty easy actually.
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on FlickrFrom there you have to smooth out the cuts, debur them and make it pretty.
You then have to take some scotch brite, and scuff up the flange area (which you can see when you mock it up). This ensures the great adhesion you can expect from the 3M adhesive they include. Clean it with something after (i used mineral spirits, you can use alcohol as well, whatever)
The next step is the clean the flange on the flares and drop the adhesive on there.
After that, it's just a matter of popping it on, and making so it doesn't move.
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on FlickrAfter that you run a bead on the inside flange and smooth it all out and let it dry. After about 4 hours it wasnt moving anymore, but i let it cure overnight before driving so there would be no issue. Took about 4-5 hours total. Now to do the other side...
Also this week, hopefully, ill trim out the inside of the flares, build the water tank bracket over the driver rear wheel well, build the cabinet for the dometic fridge, and put the solar on the rack. Or i'll be lazy and not do anything. Depends on how i feel lol
freshlikesushi
Free Candy
bit of an update!
Got the other panel and window in with almost zero fuss. got it down to an hour from start to finish. Pretty easy now at this point. Could bust out a pair of these in an afternoon for sure.
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Just as the other side, fitment was awesome and went right on.
Also laid down the wood on the driver wall so i could start building the wheel well cover/water tank holder. The tank will be on top of this with a cover built
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Got the other panel and window in with almost zero fuss. got it down to an hour from start to finish. Pretty easy now at this point. Could bust out a pair of these in an afternoon for sure.
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on FlickrJust as the other side, fitment was awesome and went right on.
Also laid down the wood on the driver wall so i could start building the wheel well cover/water tank holder. The tank will be on top of this with a cover built
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Corneilius
Adventurer
I've always drooled over those flares. What a cool idea and execution. I still chew on spacing my windows out from the body to achieve the same thing.
freshlikesushi
Free Candy
I got alot done!
Skinned the driver side about 90%. I have to trim out the rear part back by the door opening and that top part that is exposed will be covered by cabinets, so not worried about that except for a small part on each end.
Passenger side is next up.
Trying to get to a point where i can get the bed platform installed for good and put a mattress in!
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Skinned the driver side about 90%. I have to trim out the rear part back by the door opening and that top part that is exposed will be covered by cabinets, so not worried about that except for a small part on each end.
Passenger side is next up.
Trying to get to a point where i can get the bed platform installed for good and put a mattress in!
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
freshlikesushi
Free Candy
Water tank is mounted, and made a new rear floor trim piece
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
freshlikesushi
Free Candy
Finally got all the solar in and installed. For the fun of the in
depth portion of this build since everyone always asks what i use, I will divulge into it!
I use renogy. At one time (full disclosure) I was sponsored by them. Even after that ended i continue to buy their panels. They are quality, and work well.
I chose to use 3 100 watt Monocrystalline panels http://amzn.to/2BVLNeh
To connect those panels in series, i used two pairs of these - http://amzn.to/2BUqQk5
Then used these cables with the unused ends cut off to run the rest of the routing, super solid and thick stranded wire for good power conduction - http://amzn.to/2GLhXgx
I used this glad that i sealed, screwed then resealed over the screws - http://amzn.to/2GNWrYb
These wires then go into a victron 100/30 Smart MPPT charger - http://amzn.to/2BVhvZc
Which is also monitored by the Victron BMV 712 - http://amzn.to/2E4hKD2
Into this battery - http://amzn.to/2GNTw22
With this combination I can accurately track overall use, history, incoming and outgoing amps, and remaining time along with a **** ton of other stuff.
For the panels themselves, i bolted all three together with 1/4" stainless hardware from www.buildersstainless.com
for the mount i used 2" x 3" aluminum 1/4" thick angle with the 2" side on the solar and the 3" on the factory racks
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
panels bolted, routing for cables (they are later covered in loom for protection)
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
pretty stainless hardware
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
two together
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
angle mounted for installation
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
all together, cheating with a forklift
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
3 panels installed!
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
solar production at about 10AM on a winter day
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
what it takes to run a 1500 watt hot water heater to heat 4 gallons of water in 20 minutes.
depth portion of this build since everyone always asks what i use, I will divulge into it!
I use renogy. At one time (full disclosure) I was sponsored by them. Even after that ended i continue to buy their panels. They are quality, and work well.
I chose to use 3 100 watt Monocrystalline panels http://amzn.to/2BVLNeh
To connect those panels in series, i used two pairs of these - http://amzn.to/2BUqQk5
Then used these cables with the unused ends cut off to run the rest of the routing, super solid and thick stranded wire for good power conduction - http://amzn.to/2GLhXgx
I used this glad that i sealed, screwed then resealed over the screws - http://amzn.to/2GNWrYb
These wires then go into a victron 100/30 Smart MPPT charger - http://amzn.to/2BVhvZc
Which is also monitored by the Victron BMV 712 - http://amzn.to/2E4hKD2
Into this battery - http://amzn.to/2GNTw22
With this combination I can accurately track overall use, history, incoming and outgoing amps, and remaining time along with a **** ton of other stuff.
For the panels themselves, i bolted all three together with 1/4" stainless hardware from www.buildersstainless.com
for the mount i used 2" x 3" aluminum 1/4" thick angle with the 2" side on the solar and the 3" on the factory racks
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickrpanels bolted, routing for cables (they are later covered in loom for protection)
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickrpretty stainless hardware
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickrtwo together
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickrangle mounted for installation
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickrall together, cheating with a forklift
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickr3 panels installed!
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickrsolar production at about 10AM on a winter day
Untitled by Grant Wilson, on Flickrwhat it takes to run a 1500 watt hot water heater to heat 4 gallons of water in 20 minutes.