Single Speed suggestions

Speaker

Adventurer
I had that bike for a year, not a bad ride. It's aluminum, so kind of harshish as a rigid. But, it's suspension corrected so you can throw a reba on there or something. I sold mine for $250, so $175 sounds like a deal. I say you need to email him like RIGHT NOW and go for a test ride, bring cash. Mine sold in 1 hour on craigslist with 3 offers.
 

Cackalak Han

Explorer
Speaker - The person doesn't get off of work till 5pm, so that's the soonest I can go look at it. I'm still wishy washy on the aluminum frame and perhaps too small of a frame? 17" is what I rode with the MC/MCF, and it felt okay, but like I said, maybe just a touch too small. I will say that riding the 19" 29er made me feel like I was in a monster truck compared to my 19" 26" bike. But is that the way it's supposed to be? Or do you go down an inch or two when going to a 29er?

Kermit - If the above bike fits, I will most likely get it to at least get a good feel for the 29er SS over the next few months. The "cheapie" will do me just fine for right now.
 

Speaker

Adventurer
Yeah, go down an inch or two. I can't speak with too much authority because I've only had two 29ers, but from my experience they have to make the seat tubes smaller on 29ers comparatively to 26ers because the big hoops make the standover height taller. So, they make the seat tubes smaller and keep the top tubes the same size(ish)

What does this mean? Well, if you end up going with the same sized seat tube on a 29er you ride on a 26er, you will get a very long top tube.

My thought on bike sizing is this, ride it with the components it has at the shop. If it feels a bit too big then don't buy it, you can only make the stem and seatpost so short.. If it feels too small, remember that seatposts can get upwards of 410mm and there will always be a longer stem.
 

Christophe Noel

Expedition Leader
Speaker said:
woah, look at that rear spacing!
Speaker brings up a very, very solid point. When you shop for a 29er, be aware of the chain stay length. Some 29ers get a little long in the booty and the rear wheel starts to clip the inside of every turn. Not fun.
 

Cackalak Han

Explorer
IMG_3537.jpg


So I bought it. Came with extra tubes, bike computer, and brake pads. Two concerns--

1) Gearing is too tall for me right now. After being on the 34x22 last week, I can't do this 33x18. I am going to get a 22 rear cog. Easy solution.

2) Ok, the rigid fork might be a bit much for me. I don't know if I am going to be able to handle it.... :eek:

Otherwise, looking forward to the next ride.
 

Speaker

Adventurer
Very cool. I think you'll enjoy it as a first big hoop SS. I would have kept mine if it was one size smaller. You should flip over to the fixed gear side of the rear hub and give that a shot for a bit :ylsmoke: Also, you might want to think about a new saddle. I remember the one that came with that bike being a bit wide.
 

Cackalak Han

Explorer
Speaker said:
Very cool. I think you'll enjoy it as a first big hoop SS. I would have kept mine if it was one size smaller. You should flip over to the fixed gear side of the rear hub and give that a shot for a bit :ylsmoke: Also, you might want to think about a new saddle. I remember the one that came with that bike being a bit wide.

Yeah, the saddle on there looks like one of those "comfort" saddles on beach cruisers. :D I will also need a new seat post, because the one on there is too short. What's a safe length to go to without compromising the frame or the post itself? I am ~160lbs, so not a heavy weight.

And I'll try the fixed side. Gotta change the gearing, though. Do you guys get your cogs online or at your LBS? Also, is it more effective to go down 1 in the front or the rear? Does it matter? If not, I guess it'll be cheaper to go up in the rear...

Last question, how about the chain tension? I've ridden motorcycles for years and I usually set it so there's about 1" play at the mid-point. Is there the same type of a guide for SS bicycles?

Sorry for all the n00bb questions. :roost:
 
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Speaker

Adventurer
It's cheaper and more effective to go up one in the back. I think it's like 1 tooth in the rear for every three in the front (or something close)

I've found a really good place to get cogs is off of used cassettes. You can disassemble those things and then have a choice of 9 cogs at your disposal. Run to the LBS and see if they have any dissasembled (or assembled) old busted cassettes. If not, I find it's better to buy parts like that from them anyway, it's hard to justify paying for shipping and waiting for such a small part. I don't remember, though, if the Outcast uses a cog or a freewheel (ala BMX) can you get a picture of it?

I am no chain tension scientist, but tight(ish) is good. Bikes (most of them) don't have chain guides and things to keep the chain on the ring and cog. If a chain is all sloppy-woppy, when you go over big bumps it will bounce right off and leave you pedaling your shin right into the bash guard. So, tighten that thing up so there is just a little bit of play in it. Spin the cranks backwards, if they stop prematurely, it's too tight.
 
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ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
The smaller the sprocket or cog, the more of a difference one tooth will make.
A change from a 50 to a 51 up front is almost not noticeable, but a change from a 16 to 17 in the rear is very noticeable. Its a percentage change deal. 1/17 is a lot bigger than 1/51

All crank/sprocket combos have a high spot, some worse than others (one indicator of the quality of the parts). I find that point and give it just enough play that it doesn't bind or drag when spinning through backwards by hand.
 

Twenty-niner

New member
This might help you figure out what to drop the gearing to.

Keep in mind that a smaller chainring will wear a chain slower than a larger one.

26-inch-gear-ratios.gif
 

Cackalak Han

Explorer
Thanks guys, and thanks 29er for the chart. Looks like I will be getting the 22 teeth.

Speaker - Here are the pics of the rear hub.

IMG_3542.jpg


IMG_3539.jpg
 

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