Suburban/Yukon 2500 year compare

thebmrust

Active member
From my understanding, there are usually better (reliable?) years of Suburban/Yukon XL over others. It seems to apply for the 1500 models ('99's and '05/06 years seem to be "better").

Is there a similar rule for the 2500 models? If so, what 2500 models are more reliable and what model years are less reliable?
 

01BURB

New member
I have an 01 Suburban 2500 with the 8.1L It is 4x4 and it has been great. I have 224k miles on it and only major item was transmission at about 180k. I have used and abused it and other than basic maintenance, haven't done a whole lot. I will say that the 8.1 will use some oil depending on how hard you run it. I have starting showing it a little love over last couple months as I love it and want to make sure it is around for a lot longer time.
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
On the GMT800 models, the later you go in the series the more options they had and the nicer they were overall. 04+ seems to be a big mid-cycle refresh, I know they got a slightly different instrument panel and center stack, hydro-boost brakes on the 1500 models, and a few other tweaks. In think 2005 and 2006 saw even more stuff added, for example in 2005 they got TPMS that was individual for each tire (IOW if you had a low tire it would tell you, specifically, which tire was low - on my 04 it just tells you to check your tires.)
.

Not sure about the 2500 models but I presume the cosmetic/interior stuff was probably upgraded as the model years went on. I think the drivetrain stayed the same - I know the 2500's always had hydro boost brakes, for example.
 
I'm looking at getting back into a GM also. How many miles are to many when buying a used GMT800? I know a lot depends on how it was maintained, but when to most major components fail? I know the motors go for over 300k, but what about all the other parts (trans, tcase, etc)? We has a 04 3/4 ton Suburban that started to nickle and dime to me death @ 160k mile. Is that normal?
 
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CampStewart

Observer
The generation that ended in 99 seems to have a lot less rust issues than the next generation. The 2500's have much better brakes, transmissions, and axles than the 1500's. Once you drive a rig with the later LS based engines you will have a hard time going back to the old small blocks
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
The only significant thing to avoid is the first couple years of active fuel management, they'll likely have cylinder / ring trouble. 2007-2008 IIRC. Everything else seems to come down to how the vehicle was treated / random chance.

Not any other significant reliability issues that I'm aware of. The only 1500 / 4L60E transmission problems seem to come from the folks towing at or above their GVWR constraints or who have driven their trans temps over 275F. That seems to be the death knell for that trans. We've got a lot of miles on both of ours, lots of varied towing, but we've mostly kept it under ~5000#. The missus' '05 Tahoe is over 190k mi and only now showing a random slip once in a while. I just did a partial fluid change on that and crossed my fingers.
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
Mmmm... can’t agree on tranny issues being primarily on those who tow above weight limit. Mine crapped out after 6 months of pulling a trailer that is well below the rated capacity (my trailer is about 2000# full.) Now, granted I was pulling this trailer over the highest passes in the US (routinely over 11,000’) but I had an SG and watched my trans temps like a hawk - never got above 210. And my ‘Burb has the tow package with the trans cooler.

I think it’s safer to say that on a GMT800 (the newest of which is now 12 years old) you probably just need to anticipate that it’s going to need a transmission rebuild between 150k and 200k and budget accordingly (approx $2k.)

Having said that, at least my trans “failed safe” and still got me home from a camping trip with the wife, dog, 2 kayaks and the travel trailer. I lost gears 3 and 4 but was able to “limp” home in 2nd. I was even able to drive it to the transmission shop for the rebuild.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
Was that a 1500 or 2500 model?

A 2004 1500. Mine went out right at 149,000 miles. No warning or anything, just driving along, stopped at a stop light and when I tried to go again the engine just revved like it was in neutral. Had to drop it down to 2nd to get the truck to move. No codes, and I had been watching my transmission - transmission temp never even went above 200 and we had just ascended and descended from Rabbit Ears Pass in Colorado.
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
210 is way to hot for a transmission. Especially on the 1500 trucks with the 4L60E.

The A740 (I think?) 5 speed auto on my 2007 4runner would hit 220 at even a mild grade and coming out of Death Valley pulling a small trailer in July it hit 259.

FWIW my Suburban has a trans temp gauge and it doesn't "redline" until about 250.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
210 is nothing for a trans on a vehicle with in-radiator-tank warming / cooling circuit on a vehicle with a 195F thermostat. That's why it seems to crop up that the 1500/4L60E has trouble with frequent / heavy towing use. I didn't say it was strictly over-GVWR rating. I think it's mostly about towing hard and keeping one's foot in it. Long mountain grades, heavy(ier) loads. That protracted differential-heating of the trans guts seems to be the trouble, after reading many online anecdotes. That's when the pump seal seems to go (too).

in related news, driving from Vandenberg to L.A. tonight, in low 60s and rain showers, after inadvertantly installing a 160F thermostat and after installing the 40k trans cooler, I was clocking 75mph, 170F engine coolant temp and a whopping 107F trans temp, yes, 107, that's not a type. In fact now I'm thinking it's running too cool. If that's even possible. And I'm STILL plumbed thru the radiator, before entering the big trans cooler. Very cool.
 

Burb One

Adventurer
2500-
All years are great. 6.0 or 8.1. As some said, only real difference are the creature comforts through the years, the running gear is much the less the same. Only small stuff like materials on the gaskets of the front diff, etc. For 2500 GMT 800 the most important thing is the condition of the truck, even more so than mileage.
Short- 2500 are much hardier and stronger than the 1500. If you don't want to touch anything, other than slightly larger tires AND you tow>5000 lbs frequently, than go 2500 with 6.0 and don't look back.

1500-
In my opinion, usually the better option.
Short- Price will allow a ton of mods to get you close to 2500 reliability(and by that I mean breaking things off road, not maintenance failures). You don't need 6.0(much the less 8.1 power) if you aren't towing and the mpg boost for normal long distance travel is awesome. Coil rear end feels MUCH better off road (and on). Does fine towing ~6k lbs as well, mpg is about the same as a 2500 for the towing and significantly better everywhere else, just not as "comfy power" as the 2500.
You can bolt in a 2500 14 bolt, if you are worried about the rear end, and with a lift a 9.25 front end is easy as well.
In terms of years, the 04 or greater is the best option. More power in 2004 and most importantly, hydroboost for the brakes


For the transmissions:

4l60E-
Rebuilds are cheap Quality rebuilds locally in CA are 1000-1500 and will last 100k miles with a tranny cooler.
Agreed 210 is too hot for a 4l60E unless going up a grade in hot weather. For the 4L60E, it's all about the temperature for longevity.
I installed the extra large Tru-Cool cooler in my truck, with the radiator circulation intact. My transmission temperature warms up to 140 at idle and up to 168-179 when driving. Under steep, steep long grades in the heat, it goes up to 190. I haven't seen it higher than that, on 35's with camping equipment, and towing 6k, even in 110 heat in slow traffic on I-5.

4l80E-
Absolutely bulletproof, don't even worry about the temps if less than 220.
There are now kits to put in 4l80E's in 1500's pretty much bolt in and plug in. Probably go with that next time around because I am on all 2500 running gear now.


In the end they are both great trucks. Some of the decision is probably budget, and then the area you want the truck to focus on. With the only except of if you plan on towing >6000 lbs regularly (then you have to go 2500), both will do the job great and reliably with minumum $. In then end for <10k (and much less than pretty much any truck out there you can setup the GMT800 1500 or 2500 to be great off road and on road mileage eaters, around the town haulers and towers. Can't really go wrong.

This comes from owning between myself and my parents over the last few decades havinga GMT-400(from new to 200k miles and sold, still running by a high school kid down the street), GMT800 1500w/5.3(Still have from new at 240k miles and just beginning its off road life at 180k- see my sig.), 1500w/6.0(owned from 100k-200k) and a 2500/6.0(100k-200k)

The GMT800 have been the single most reliable vehicle we have ever owned. It has only ever stranded us once, when a wheel bearing failed at 224k miles after I decided to do a trip as soon as installing a lift kit and not waiting for the new bearings to be be delivered. Only other problems are the fuel pumps start to whine ~10k-20k miles before going out, as well as the transmissions, but they start slipping and you know when before they go.
 
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