1995 4Runner DD/Adventure "Killbox"

O.B.A.K

Member
Specs:
1995 SR5 4runner 4x4 161,XXX
Sierra Beige Metallic, tan cloth interior
3.0 3vze, 5speed r150 transmission
4.56 factory gears, OEM Toyota tow package

Modifications/upgrades:
AC delete
Cruise delete
ADD hub delete (Aisin manual hubs)
Cat delete (lc engineering)
EGR delete (lc engineering)
Auto antenna delete (broken anyways, replaced with non-motorized version)
Hard-line vacuum delete under hood
Oil cooler delete - dual oil filter setup
Running boards/chrome trim delete

4 crawler-offroad 1.5" BJ spacer/rear coil spacer, sway bar drop, LSPV 1” bracket, 1" diff drop
Moog stock size rear coils
KYB red +2 F shocks
KYB red R shocks
Trail gear weldable shock mounts
F/R sway bar end links

OEM cat back exhaust (rusted out)
New front rotors/pads/calipers
New CV axles L/R
New tie rod ends
New BJ U/L
New idler arm
Alignment
Marlin Crawler short shift kit
Aisin slave cylinder
Aisin clutch/flywheel
Fuel filter
Denso o2 sensor
Used ignitor control module

Yakima rack system
BFG Ko2 33x10.5x15

Vision X 9004 bulbs
Vision X 4.5" LED light cannons w/clear covers
Amazon 24” light bar
OEM Foglight switch
Red LED map lights, LED cargo lamp, LED reverse bulbs

Synthetic gear lube F/R diffs, T-case, Trans
5w/30 Mobil 1 synthetic
Toyota red antifreeze
OEM Toyota air/oil filter(s)
Diff breathers F/R
Replaced rear wiper blade
Bosch Icon wipers
Amazon molle seat covers
Block heater
OEM Toyota ignition key cut locally

Rebuilt 3.0 with as much OEM bits as possible -
Heads decked
Head gaskets
Timing Belt/tensioner
Oil pump
Water pump
Knock sensor/pigtail (as well as knock sensor bypass)
Distributor cap/rotor
Plugs/wires
Rebuilt fuel injectors with new o-rings
Thermostat
Resurfaced crankshaft
Piston rings
PC valve
Wrap crossover manifold with heat wrap
Clean throttle body
Bearings/gaskets through
Timing advanced to 11-13 degrees​

Originally an Alaskan truck bought new in Anchorage in January of 1996, with a murky history besides being owned by a school teacher for some amount of time. When I picked it up the torsion bars were so cranked the suspension wouldn't flex, as well as a hole in the block - which leads me to think some kids got a hold of it at some point. However the body is super straight, as is the skid plate, so I really don't know what happened in its history. I do know based on a VIN search at the dealer that the track bar was replaced under warranty, as well as a broken injector clip fixed at the dealership.

A buddy had it sitting in his yard for 6 years, having picked it up knowing that it would make a great DD build someday. He moved on to bigger and better things, but the truck remained. As did a huge amount of OEM 3.0 parts, which were thrown into the deal when I picked the truck up, thus making rebuilding the 3vz worth it for me. Eyes down the road are on a 3.4 swap, but feeling fairly confident that the rebuild should net me at least 60k on the motor (I know I should hope for more, but can't help realistically planning for less.) On top of that, being able to re-sell a running 3.0 should help offset the swap costs (furious knocking on wood).

Coming off of 4 prior 22re's, I too waded through the internet barking and howling about the 3.0, but I can honestly say that the truck pulls harder, runs smoother and gets the same gas mileage as my last truck on 30s (4.10's). It also doesn't protest at grandpa shifts (2200-2700) shifts, which I like for gas mileage. While being admittedly harder to work on, being blessed with a no emissions process up here in Alaska, I was able to remove a large amount of vacuum lines and connectors from under the hood, as well as the EGR, cruise etc. from under the hood. This makes changing spark plugs, diagnosing leaks and removing the intake manifold about 25x easier, plus it looks less busy; an old not-so-hidden agenda from 22re life.

Where are all my 2nd generation 4runner/pickup pals at?
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Arktikos

Explorer
Wow, that's a lot of work you've done, and good job on the documentation. Looks like you've got a Nissan D21 too?
 

O.B.A.K

Member
Wow, that's a lot of work you've done, and good job on the documentation. Looks like you've got a Nissan D21 too?

The nissan was actually a bi-product of my buddy's daughter's friend who had thrashed it the prior weekend and towed it to the holding yard. I didn't poke around it too much but it was clapped out and they eventually drove it home! If you look yonder the red single cab was my prior build.

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Simons

Adventurer
Beautiful.
That is a remarkably clean 2nd gen. Well done sir.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Smileyshaun

Observer
Best thing you can do to help the 3.0 last longer is either headers or do the crossover pipe mod , you won't really gain much in power but it will keep from burning out the valves
 

O.B.A.K

Member
Best thing you can do to help the 3.0 last longer is either headers or do the crossover pipe mod , you won't really gain much in power but it will keep from burning out the valves

Not sure what the crossover mod is, but I did wrap the crossover pipe with heat wrap, as can be seen in one of the above pictures. Hoping its enough to keep the hound in the cage. I seriously considered going with the LCE headers while building, but basically ran out of money. Plus long term plans being a 3.4 swap, I will let the next guy buy headers and save money for the bits that will be staying with the truck.
 

O.B.A.K

Member
Finally got around to getting some engine bay pictures, you can see how much room the egr and cruise delete netted me on the passenger side of the block, easier to change plugs there than the other side! Also seen is the knock sensor bypass, tapped into the intake manifold and grounded on the lce block off plate.

Went back to my sr5 rims to match all the chrome on the truck (not a fan), and I have to say I love the way that the 33's look on these rims vs. the steel offset. It solved a minor rub under compression issue I was having, as well as stiffened up the ride a touch as well. Plus I was able to use my OEM hub-caps, which is one of my favorite parts of the truck following the OEM layout.

Also pulled the trigger on a fifth 33x10.5 spare on matching rim, just for peace of mind. I know I had talked about moving down to 31's, but after getting everything tuned in and netting a conservative 17 mpg mixed driving I think I can deal with the loss of power. They are great tires for us up here in Alaska, and should put up with the mild wheeling I do when aired down as well as great long distance performance for road trips.

I do have an issue with the rear shocks, I mounted the new mounts too high up on the axle, and even with the 1.5 coil spacer, there are a few frost heaves that I bottom out the shocks on my daily commute. I am considering getting into a set of OME 901 HD coils (2+ lift) to give me some more rise and resistance against the shocks bottoming out.

Does anyone have any experience running these coils? How about with a spacer? What shocks are you running?

Another option would be sourcing some shorter shocks, but I like the idea of having some more beef out back to handle summer gear for camping and offroading.

Thanks in advance.

Also a few interior shots.

The 4wd shift had to be trimmed to work with the marlin short shift. The kit was initially for a 151f I had that got sold with the prior truck, but I decided to keep the kit for the 150 on the runner. Had to modify the transfer case shifter to keep from interference from the gear shift, as well as use the stock shift bushing which was in decent shape. With the marlin bushing, I couldn't get the case piece to push down and turn to lock the shifter into place.

Also a shot of the OEM Toyota fog switch in place in the dash punchout, almost a perfect fit, with just a minute edge not falling into place, hardly noticeable.

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Arktikos

Explorer
Finally got around to getting some engine bay pictures, you can see how much room the egr and cruise delete netted me on the passenger side of the block, easier to change plugs there than the other side! Also seen is the knock sensor bypass, tapped into the intake manifold and grounded on the lce block off plate.

Went back to my sr5 rims to match all the chrome on the truck (not a fan), and I have to say I love the way that the 33's look on these rims vs. the steel offset. It solved a minor rub under compression issue I was having, as well as stiffened up the ride a touch as well. Plus I was able to use my OEM hub-caps, which is one of my favorite parts of the truck following the OEM layout...

Although not my favorite 4Runner rims of all time, they look so much better than any aftermarket option. Toyota wheels-yes, an improvement. Excellent photos accompanying the descriptions of your work.:)
 

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