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Thread: 1995 4Runner DD/Adventure "Killbox"

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Palmer, AK
    Posts
    14

    Default 1995 4Runner DD/Adventure "Killbox"

    [FONT=Microsoft Sans Serif][SIZE=3][SIZE=4][SIZE=2]
    Specs:
    1995 SR5 4runner 4x4 161,XXX
    Sierra Beige Metallic, tan cloth interior
    3.0 3vze, 5speed r150 transmission
    4.56 factory gears, OEM Toyota tow package

    Modifications/upgrades:
    AC delete
    Cruise delete
    ADD hub delete (Aisin manual hubs)
    Cat delete (lc engineering)
    EGR delete (lc engineering)
    Auto antenna delete (broken anyways, replaced with non-motorized version)
    Hard-line vacuum delete under hood
    Oil cooler delete - dual oil filter setup
    Running boards/chrome trim delete

    4 crawler-offroad 1.5" BJ spacer/rear coil spacer, sway bar drop, LSPV 1” bracket, 1" diff drop
    Moog stock size rear coils
    KYB red +2 F shocks
    KYB red R shocks
    Trail gear weldable shock mounts
    F/R sway bar end links

    OEM cat back exhaust (rusted out)
    New front rotors/pads/calipers
    New CV axles L/R
    New tie rod ends
    New BJ U/L
    New idler arm
    Alignment
    Marlin Crawler short shift kit
    Aisin slave cylinder
    Aisin clutch/flywheel
    Fuel filter
    Denso o2 sensor
    Used ignitor control module

    Yakima rack system
    BFG Ko2 33x10.5x15

    Vision X 9004 bulbs
    Vision X 4.5" LED light cannons w/clear covers
    Amazon 24” light bar
    OEM Foglight switch
    Red LED map lights, LED cargo lamp, LED reverse bulbs

    Synthetic gear lube F/R diffs, T-case, Trans
    5w/30 Mobil 1 synthetic
    Toyota red antifreeze
    OEM Toyota air/oil filter(s)
    Diff breathers F/R
    Replaced rear wiper blade
    Bosch Icon wipers
    Amazon molle seat covers
    Block heater
    OEM Toyota ignition key cut locally

    Rebuilt 3.0 with as much OEM bits as possible -
    Heads decked
    Head gaskets
    Timing Belt/tensioner
    Oil pump
    Water pump
    Knock sensor/pigtail (as well as knock sensor bypass)
    Distributor cap/rotor
    Plugs/wires
    Rebuilt fuel injectors with new o-rings
    Thermostat
    Resurfaced crankshaft
    Piston rings
    PC valve
    Wrap crossover manifold with heat wrap
    Clean throttle body
    Bearings/gaskets through
    Timing advanced to 11-13 degrees

    Originally an Alaskan truck bought new in Anchorage in January of 1996, with a murky history besides being owned by a school teacher for some amount of time. When I picked it up the torsion bars were so cranked the suspension wouldn’t flex, as well as a hole in the block - which leads me to think some kids got a hold of it at some point. However the body is super straight, as is the skid plate, so I really don’t know what happened in its history. I do know based on a VIN search at the dealer that the track bar was replaced under warranty, as well as a broken injector clip fixed at the dealership.

    A buddy had it sitting in his yard for 6 years, having picked it up knowing that it would make a great DD build someday. He moved on to bigger and better things, but the truck remained. As did a huge amount of OEM 3.0 parts, which were thrown into the deal when I picked the truck up, thus making rebuilding the 3vz worth it for me. Eyes down the road are on a 3.4 swap, but feeling fairly confident that the rebuild should net me at least 60k on the motor (I know I should hope for more, but can’t help realistically planning for less.) On top of that, being able to re-sell a running 3.0 should help offset the swap costs (furious knocking on wood).

    Coming off of 4 prior 22re’s, I too waded through the internet barking and howling about the 3.0, but I can honestly say that the truck pulls harder, runs smoother and gets the same gas mileage as my last truck on 30s (4.10’s). It also doesn’t protest at grandpa shifts (2200-2700) shifts, which I like for gas mileage. While being admittedly harder to work on, being blessed with a no emissions process up here in Alaska, I was able to remove a large amount of vacuum lines and connectors from under the hood, as well as the EGR, cruise etc. from under the hood. This makes changing spark plugs, diagnosing leaks and removing the intake manifold about 25x easier, plus it looks less busy; an old not-so-hidden agenda from 22re life.

    Where are all my 2nd generation 4runner/pickup pals at?
    IMG_3951.jpgIMG_3952.jpgIMG_3953.jpgIMG_3964.jpgIMG_3966.jpgIMG_3967.jpg
    Last edited by O.B.A.K; 01-13-2018 at 07:05 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Palmer, AK
    Posts
    14

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Palmer, AK
    Posts
    14

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Palmer, AK
    Posts
    14

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    1,009
    Wow, that's a lot of work you've done, and good job on the documentation. Looks like you've got a Nissan D21 too?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Palmer, AK
    Posts
    14
    Quote Originally Posted by Blind Cleric View Post
    Wow, that's a lot of work you've done, and good job on the documentation. Looks like you've got a Nissan D21 too?
    The nissan was actually a bi-product of my buddy's daughter's friend who had thrashed it the prior weekend and towed it to the holding yard. I didn't poke around it too much but it was clapped out and they eventually drove it home! If you look yonder the red single cab was my prior build.

    IMG_3874.jpgfullsizeoutput_101f.jpgIMG_3894.jpg
    Last edited by O.B.A.K; 01-13-2018 at 05:24 AM.
    all AK all the time.
    1995 T4R build: http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/189104-1995-4Runner-DD-Adventure-quot-Killbox-quot?p=2421368#post2421368
    natural wonders, empty roads, dry wood & good wine.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Beautiful Carlsbad Springs, ON, Canada
    Posts
    131
    Beautiful.
    That is a remarkably clean 2nd gen. Well done sir.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Paducah KY
    Posts
    1,042
    Sweet runner. Had a 91 same color. Same burnt valves. I loved that truck after rebuilding the heads.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Happy valley , Oregon
    Posts
    69
    Best thing you can do to help the 3.0 last longer is either headers or do the crossover pipe mod , you won't really gain much in power but it will keep from burning out the valves
    well that didn't go as planned

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Palmer, AK
    Posts
    14
    Quote Originally Posted by Smileyshaun View Post
    Best thing you can do to help the 3.0 last longer is either headers or do the crossover pipe mod , you won't really gain much in power but it will keep from burning out the valves
    Not sure what the crossover mod is, but I did wrap the crossover pipe with heat wrap, as can be seen in one of the above pictures. Hoping its enough to keep the hound in the cage. I seriously considered going with the LCE headers while building, but basically ran out of money. Plus long term plans being a 3.4 swap, I will let the next guy buy headers and save money for the bits that will be staying with the truck.
    all AK all the time.
    1995 T4R build: http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/189104-1995-4Runner-DD-Adventure-quot-Killbox-quot?p=2421368#post2421368
    natural wonders, empty roads, dry wood & good wine.

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