The evolving build

Onegen

Member
Fox suspension came today, brought them home in the white stallion.
Fox front 2.5 with remote resi and rear 2.0
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Onegen

Member
I agree with everything Kevin said. Ive dealt with the dreaded LBJ failure and let me tell you, it sucks. So make sure those are good and make sure all bolts are torqued to spec. I also advise using ALL OEM parts for ball joints, tie rods, etc. I also had an issue with my upper ball joint failing after I replaced with MOOG and wheel fell off again, but thats a whole other story.

Billy at BruteForce makes excellent products. I also have his front bumper and a rear bumper on order right now. Im running the OME front and rear with Icon 3 pack AAL so I dont know much about Fox, but I love my OME. Good luck and cant wait to see what you do to this guy.

Thanks man should be fun. Took your advice and replaced the LBJ and uca completely.
 
D

Deleted member 9101

Guest
Find a first gen V6 automatic 4x4. It should have 4.30 gears.
 

Onegen

Member
I have a question for the masses. Before adding the suspension, what other things should I consider? Examples being new break lines, diff drop, etc. Please shed some knowledge, thanks
 

mtran

New member
Diff drop didn't seem to do much for me so I'd say either way doesn't matter. Extended brake lines are good. I used the tacoma steel braided lines from wheelers off road and they've been great. The reason for using tacoma lines is they use a banjo bolt at the caliper so you don't have that hard line sticking out which often times interferes with your coilovers, and it's a direct swap with no mods needed to make them work. With aftermarket coilovers the springs are seated much lower down which reduces clearance between the caliper and the coilovers.
 

Onegen

Member
Diff drop didn't seem to do much for me so I'd say either way doesn't matter. Extended brake lines are good. I used the tacoma steel braided lines from wheelers off road and they've been great. The reason for using tacoma lines is they use a banjo bolt at the caliper so you don't have that hard line sticking out which often times interferes with your coilovers, and it's a direct swap with no mods needed to make them work. With aftermarket coilovers the springs are seated much lower down which reduces clearance between the caliper and the coilovers.

Perfect, I knew I would be going that route. Saw the lines sticking out pretty far and saw the swap on another thread. Going to buy those suckers in a few days. Thanks for the heads up
 

bkg

Explorer
Can’t imagine why one wouldn’t do a diff drop. Any option to reduce stress on CV’s is good, and the drills is very simple. Is it a panacea? No. Of course not. Is there any downfall to installing it? No
 

mtran

New member
Can't imagine why one wouldn't do a diff drop. Any option to reduce stress on CV's is good, and the drills is very simple. Is it a panacea? No. Of course not. Is there any downfall to installing it? No

Actually that's a good point. Let me elaborate, it probably depends on how much lift you're running. My truck is set at 1.75” I didn't have any issues with throwing grease or the ribs of the cv boots rubbing before or after the drop but the diff drop did make my diff interfere with my skid plate so I elected to remove mine. Been nearly 100k trouble free miles, and at least at my lift height it really didn't seem to change the cv angles much if at all.
 

Kpack

Adventurer
Onegen - just an FYI with the Camburg's that I just found out on my own set....the uniballs appear to be some sort of plated metal, rather than stainless steel. I didn't realize that Total Chaos uses stainless, and Camburg apparently doesn't. It shouldn't be an issue for you seeing as you are in SoCal, but for me it's a problem. I'm in Eastern Washington where we get a good amount of snow and ice, and apparently they put some pretty corrosive stuff on the roads. Both of my uniballs have rust where the ball meets the adapter that goes through it. Worse on the passenger side. Camburg recommended that I clean well with WD-40 then lube with Dri-Flow. It helped, but I won't be able to get rid of the rust. And I can't clean the uniballs every time I drive the truck.

On the plus side there is absolutely no noise. I've never had any squeaking or anything like that...only smooth operation. Overall I'm really happy with the Camburg's, despite the uniball rust. When Icon releases their Delta Joints to fit the Camburg arm I'll be replacing the uniballs. I'll keep the uni's as clean as I can in the meantime.
 

Onegen

Member
Kpack- thanks for the heads up. I'll make sure to keep an eye out for it. Have you had trouble with finding the right grease for the uca? I heard I may need to do some research on getting the right stuff.
 

Onegen

Member
Installing coilovers, front brake lines and diff drop this weekend. Any words of wisdom before I do surgery?
 

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