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Thread: Colorado Camper Van Review (CCV)- Buyer Beware

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by ujoint View Post
    I always recommend SMB for pop tops, haven't seen any visible quality benefit to CCV.
    For me and I think a lot of others, the big reason for looking at CCV is the high top pop-top. If SMB started offering one I bet people would be all over it, I know I would be. However, when I've talked to SMB they don't seem much interested in the E-Series these days which I guess isn't surprising as they seem to have a huge demand for Sprinter work. Opt Overland is another high top option, but there appears to be little to no real world feedback on them. The MG pop-top talk seems to have disappeared. Are there even any other options out there for the E-Series?
    2003 E350 - 7.3 - 6" UJoint - 298,000 miles and counting

  2. #32
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    Jan 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drizzt View Post
    .... The MG pop-top talk seems to have disappeared....
    Not disappeared...just set aside while I finish up a couple customer rigs. I've definitely been watching these threads though. I can see that I need to hurry up.
    Expovans.com

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
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    Florida
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frosty_1 View Post
    I would just go with a fixed high top. Stealth camping, heating, etc all much easier in high top.
    Iíve always heard a fixed high top would mostly crack with the body flexing associated with off-roading.

  4. #34
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    Oct 2016
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    San Antonio, TX and Putnam Valley, NY
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    ^This. Fine if you stay on asphalt, but the way the top is attached around the perimeter will cause cracks and leaks as the chassis flexes off-road (especially during my hamfisted off-roading forays). The flex is felt in a properly designed lifting rigging when installed as a pop top.
    Mark
    1976 Landy Series III 109 Montoya ("You killed my father, prepare to die")
    1988 Defender 90 LHD Vizzini (urban assault vehicle - LS/6L80, 2" lower, 18's)
    1976 Landy 101 FC Radio body Fezzik (overland camper to be - LR 4.9/4HP22)
    1965 Porsche 904 (Beck)
    1975 Porsche 911 hot rod (for sale)

  5. #35
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    Aug 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by another_mike View Post
    Iíve always heard a fixed high top would mostly crack with the body flexing associated with off-roading.
    Letís face it... youíre cutting the roof structure out of what is basically a big box. Thereís going to be flex no matter what. Flex in the top, flex in the van body and flex in whatever structure is in between connecting the two. How your suspension is setup will play a big roll in how much is transferred to the body. Iíve seen multiple examples of crooked pop tops, but I donít recall anyone posting that their fixed top is cracking.

  6. #36
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    Dec 2015
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    Hillsboro, OR
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    Fixed tops are fiberglass. They sorta suck from the start so who cares. If it cracks it can be fixed.
    2010 E150 5.4l RB

    The Tan Hot Dog Build - http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...ild-16958.html

  7. #37
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    Dec 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by bknudtsen View Post
    Let’s face it... you’re cutting the roof structure out of what is basically a big box. There’s going to be flex no matter what. Flex in the top, flex in the van body and flex in whatever structure is in between connecting the two. How your suspension is setup will play a big roll in how much is transferred to the body. I’ve seen multiple examples of crooked pop tops, but I don’t recall anyone posting that their fixed top is cracking.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jsweezy View Post
    Fixed tops are fiberglass. They sorta suck from the start so who cares. If it cracks it can be fixed.
    Yes, there will be flex no matter what... but won’t a fiberglass fixed top be more prone to water leaks compared to a pop top that doesn’t require that solid seal?

  8. #38
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    Dec 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by another_mike View Post
    Yes, there will be flex no matter what... but won’t a fiberglass fixed top be more prone to water leaks compared to a pop top that doesn’t require that solid seal?
    Not sure how others are sealed but mine has 2 different adhesives all around the base of the top attaching it to the roof of the van and then has sealent on top of that. If any water gets in my van it will be from the thru hull fitting from my solar panel or the fan.
    2010 E150 5.4l RB

    The Tan Hot Dog Build - http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...ild-16958.html

  9. #39
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    Aug 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by another_mike View Post
    Yes, there will be flex no matter what... but won’t a fiberglass fixed top be more prone to water leaks compared to a pop top that doesn’t require that solid seal?
    Canvas still requires sealant. Look at how the sealant has split on the OPís newly installed top. (Page 1). The pop top relies on a pressure fit bulb seal to keep out the weather when down and a seal where the canvas meets the sheet metal roof. Both are prone to leaks over time or in wind driven rain while driving.

    For the record: I donít even like factory sunroofs because of water intrusion, so I am totally biased. If I was going to do another van, it would be a factory mid or high top Transit.

  10. #40
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    Aug 2015
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    boise idaho
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    i don't have sealant between my canvas and van body. have only seen it leak once and it was when i was doing 75-80mph on the freeway during a torrential downpour. even then, it was very little moisture that made it into the cab. one square of paper towel was more than enough to dry it up. i do plan on putting a bead between van and canvas, but haven't got that far yet. i cant say with other chassis' but with the econoline, the way the roof is shaped makes it pretty hard to leak inside under the canvas (unless its wind driven or forced under the canvas somehow). all areas where canvas is affixed to van roof aim downward from canvas so it just runs off naturally to the rain gutters.

    interesting about the fixed tops and flexing. had never really given that much thought, but seems like a valid issue. has anyone personally seen a fixed top stress crack from chassis flex? i know the van flexes quite a bit. when are out in rougher country ive seen our dome lights come on quite a bit which means the chassis is flexing enough to move the doors far enough away from the switch that tells the dope scope to go off when doors are shut. seems like a pop top would be a better match for someone really getting out in the sticks and flexing the chassis a lot since it just basically floats up on top and can move around as needed.

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