nitro_rat
Lunchbox Lockers
I have two ‘84 K10 Suburbans, both in good mechanical shape. One has a new Goodwrench crate 350 and “high altitude” emissions. This means regualar vacuum advance HEI and non-feedback Q-jet. The motor has about 20k on it sot’s fresh but broken in. The other has the 6.2 and has over 750k on it, motor never out of chassis and heads never off the block.
The 6.2 diesel is far more powerful and quicker than the 350 gas. The 350 might have a slight edge over the 6.2 in sheer top end speed, but I knida doubt it. Most square Suburbans in stock form top out around 100 mph. I’ve never tried to top out this particular gas Suburban, but the 6.2 will do 96-98 (just not up hill)!
That said, I really prefer TBI to carb or diesel!
On driving something old “expedition style,” I would say to buy something that is still someone’s daily driver. It will already be “sorted” and should be fairly reliable. I’m talking about something that you’ve been seeing them drive around town for years and have admired. You’ll have to convince them to sell it but they won’t want to at first. You’ll have to convince them that you will take care of it and that you really want it. Eventually they will be ready to move on to something newer and will appreciate someone else appreciating and taking care of their “baby.”
Otherwise be prepared to rebuild everything before you consider it “reliable.” Also remember that most vehicles were “reliable” in stock form when new. Resist the urge to upgrade and modify things until your experience shows that modification is necessary.
Also remember, things that break off road don’t always need to be upgraded. That CV axle that blew on the trail? The one that’s been clicking for months? That doesn’t mean it’s time for a Dana 60, coil overs, and 40’s. It was on its way out already and you’ll be fine if you replace it with a new stock part.
That brings the question of aftermarket stock replacement parts up. Some of the stuff from the parts house is junk. GM ifs CV axles? The Chinese replacements are weaker and have significantly less travel than OEM. Sometimes it’s better to hit the wrecking yard and refurbish an OEM part than to grab one from AutoZone. Check out brand specific sites for details on what works on your specific vehicle. This applies to stuff like tie rod ends and ball joints, brake parts, and anything else really.
You really have to pay attention to things as simple as shock travel with replacement parts now days. That’s right, many off the shelf replacement shocks will “fit” but are too short when compreed, extended, or both.
Anything with unitized hub bearings I would recommend going SKF as they make most of the OEM units. They work better than the Timkens usually too.
Overall I find that with a vehicle that is mostly stock I can enjoy driving more and wrenching less. With “expedition” style travel in mind, the main goal is “getting there” not “driving over the biggest pile of rocks” so big lifts and huge tires usually cause more trouble than they’re worth. With careful choice of route and line you will find that you can “get there” in something stock!
Careful choice of tire in a near stock size, careful choice of gears to fit your application, a traction aid to fit your applicaion, and perhaps a winch are the best mods one can make in my opinion.
Sorry for the novel, I hope you find what you are looking for!
