Lights or portable air

With limited funds at the moment, do I do Lights or Air

  • Light bars and hood lights ($$$$)

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    18

fifty

Adventurer
Hear hear. There's VALUE, quality, and 'perceived quality' / fad. Learn the difference. Or at least knowingly decide to spend 10x as much money for not much increase in value.

When starting the plan I was originally going to go with rigid lights (name recognition and perceived quality). For 75% of the price of the bd equivelant it brings 70% of the lighting (my opinion from seeing multiple live and video comparisons).
As for the Amazon/ebay special for $100 vs a current technology light by a number of different companies is not a “perceived” quality or a fad. Every led light that I see with outages are the cheap bars. Every bar that I have seen just shut off or burn a harness are the cheap lights. Sure, for the price you could buy 3 or 4 our more and replace as needed, but that's just asinine.

I was still trying to talk myself into the rigids as the cost diffenrece would satisfy the sPod or a good portion of it.

But at the end of the day I'm trying to light up as much as I can when I'm using them. Not driving down the street where a dot prescription should and must be followed.

So why would one not try to do it as best and effectively as realistically possible?

Why buy a bmw, or a subaru sti or Porsche or a Range Rover or an etc etc etc when an old version bug or Honda Civic will donthe same. That stock bug on top gear conquered some amazing territory?

I don't really know why I keep falling into the “you don't need that company's part, spend your money my way” conversation. Simply throw your opinion as to which might serve its purpose stronger given a simple drive scheduled before more kit can be afforded.

There are plenty of other threads for “which led bar is best for the money”.
 
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MOguy

Explorer
Amazon, 19.99 plus shipping for two lights. Look above the license plate. The lights still work. Think about how strong older headlights are and how cheap they are. Before this accident I would have never believed these cheap lights could handle this type of abuse either.

FB_IMG_1504136991863.jpg
 
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MOguy

Explorer
When starting the plan I was originally going to go with rigid lights (name recognition and perceived quality). For 75% of the price of the bd equivelant it brings 70% of the lighting (my opinion from seeing multiple live and video comparisons).
As for the Amazon/ebay special for $100 vs a current technology light by a number of different companies is not a “perceived” quality or a fad. Every led light that I see with outages are the cheap bars. Every bar that I have seen just shut off or burn a harness are the cheap lights. Sure, for the price you could buy 3 or 4 our more and replace as needed, but that's just asinine.

I was still trying to talk myself into the rigids as the cost diffenrece would satisfy the sPod or a good portion of it.

But at the end of the day I'm trying to light up as much as I can when I'm using them. Not driving down the street where a dot prescription should and must be followed.

So why would one not try to do it as best and effectively as realistically possible?

Why buy a bmw, or a subaru sti or Porsche or a Range Rover or an etc etc etc when an old version bug or Honda Civic will donthe same. That stock bug on top gear conquered some amazing territory?

I don't really know why I keep falling into the “you don't need that company's part, spend your money my way” conversation. Simply throw your opinion as to which might serve its purpose stronger given a simple drive scheduled before more kit can be afforded.

There are plenty of other threads for “which led bar is best for the money”.

If you are ok with spending excess money on lights that is your business and you shouldn't feel the need to justify it no matter how silly others think it is.
 
B

BPD53

Guest
I don't really know why I keep falling into the “you don't need that company's part, spend your money my way” conversation.

Because you asked strangers on the internet how to spend your money. Who cares what others think....it's your money after all.
 

Happy Joe

Apprentice Geezer
...Having spent considerable time, on the more difficult trails off road;
I have never seen anyone need to use air tools (leave 'em in the garage and use your 5 horsepower compressor at home before you go).... (changing out drive and axle shafts is pretty easy and you will not likely have the parts along to do more than replace U-joints).
Set up the vehicle correctly (strong enough) and you will rarely need even hand tools...But carry them "in case".
For trail tools use hand tools (battery power might be OK; if you have far more room to carry "STUFF" than I do).
For trail welding use a stick welder made from a stinger and 2 batteries with a heavy jumper cable (don't forget a good welding lens)... Note; I stopped carrying a welder since I don't do the extreme trails, anymore( and convinced my friends to build it strong enough).

Plan how you intend to use your vehicle off road then select the appropriate mods and accessories; Take all internet info with a grain of salt; BE WARY of social media and fanboy opinions.
Tires are probably the most important mod, off road (go too large and you will need to re-gear the axles), too fine a tread pattern and you will have more traction issues.
Frame mounted tow points front and rear are next most important.
accessories like tools (mechanical and a shovel, bow saw and pick mattock - mini tools), a jack (OEM or a bottle jack) (I have no use for a hi-lift) , snatch strap (NOT a tow strap) shackles, fire extinguisher, first aid kit etc. come next...
Airing down the tires is the cheapest and easiest way to get extra traction off road BUT you need to replace the air to drive safely home...the dual ARB is one of the better and more costly compressors, but I have never seen one power significant air tools; so, IMO, you should bring hand tools and reserve the compressor for airing up tires; you probably can get by for a while without the dual ARB; by spending a bit more time airing back up with a less expensive compressor (Its what I have done for decades).

Enjoy!
 
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Stumpalump

Expedition Leader
Bad things happen in the trails or off road at night so don't plan night rides. At the speeds you are going stock lights are perfect to get you out in the event you are running late. My desert buggy has $19.99 Walmart lights. Jeep and 4x4 van use stock headlights with the AutoZone Silverstar bulbs. eBay China light bars "work good, last long time" if you want to junk up your rig and look like a teenager. Compressor is portable so you can use it for you wife's car, boat, tractor or neibors junk. Buy a decient one because you will use one for the rest of your life.
 

fifty

Adventurer
I have a feeling this is going to get me a time out. I feel like expo portal has turned into the autistic society for inbreeds in their moms basement fantasizing about how bad *** they are. Jumping jessus on a pogo stick. All I am asking is, if given a set amount of funds, when both products will eventually be bought, which should come first for a shake down trip on a new vehicle to figure out what all else it will need, or not need.

I get it. Ebay lights are cheap.
I get it, other parts are really important too.
I get it that your 1982 rust o bucket running chinese walmart whatever stops, turns and illuminates the first 5 feet in front of you. Congratulations.

Holy ****. Read the god damn first post. Lights or air? Not which lights or which air? or hey should I buy new tires or a radio or what not.

The sign up form for these groups should have a reading comprehension test you have to pass before you get admitted on.
 

REDONE

[s]hard[/s]MEDIUM Core!
Hahaha!

You should spend the money on a snickers first, you get angry when you're hungry:victory:

Get air. Air will have immediate uses, a big honkin' flashlight will show you what you need to see until you cover your ride in LEDs.
 

Wilbah

Adventurer
I am not seeing the prices you do for the arb compressor - Amazon has it for $500, but maybe you're looking at a full kit or something?

I am not convinced that will run a lot of tools without a tank that is prefilled considering the volume of air many tools require. That being said you might find as others have suggested that some of the battery tools do as well.

Although I must say I bought a new DeWalt impact last year and have been very disappointed in the breaking ability of it. Yes it's fast once the lugs are broken but many times it wouldn't break them. Not sure if my "test" was on some overly torqued bolts or what. I need to do a test on some properly torqued bolts (I was taking wheels off a vehicle being junked So they were frozen pretty well). So I would be sure you have a breaker bar even if you go the battery tools route.

But I would go the portable air compressor route like this or a Viair. If you want it permanently mounted that's fine but I wouldn't plumb the while vehicle unless you have to for air lockers. I would just have a longer hose that allows you to inflate your or a buddy's tires when necessary.

For the lights I would go with the tried and true 130 watt Daylighters for now. You can upgrade the bulbs later as $ allows but until then you get a very good light that has been proven to work for years. No it's not the "cool" LED lightbar so many have, but I hazard to say I bet the light is better than many of the cheaper LED lightbars put there.

It's funny while LED technology is improving (temperature etc.) If you look at lots of pictures of the Baja racers they still run Daylighters. Yes the Rigid Industries racer is covered with their LED's (of course) and others have some but many are still running KC's . They may be the HID's which are expensive I don't know- but my point is many use a tried and true product that works.

And considering that 130 watt Daylighters are $200 or so you can do both lights and air for the $800 you referenced and then upgrade things as time and $ allow.
 

fifty

Adventurer
Hahaha!

You should spend the money on a snickers first, you get angry when you're hungry:victory:

Get air. Air will have immediate uses, a big honkin' flashlight will show you what you need to see until you cover your ride in LEDs.

I'm going to need a snickers dipped in bourbon. Yeah. I've leaned toward the compressor.
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
It's funny while LED technology is improving (temperature etc.) If you look at lots of pictures of the Baja racers they still run Daylighters. Yes the Rigid Industries racer is covered with their LED's (of course) and others have some but many are still running KC's . They may be the HID's which are expensive I don't know- but my point is many use a tried and true product that works..


pretty simple really.

LEDs simply do not have the long reach. Baja racers go fast. In order to NOT outrun their lighting, they need long reaching lights.

So, do you plan on 80MPH runs off road?



I know I sure the hell dont.
 

Airmapper

Inactive Member
I have a feeling this is going to get me a time out. I feel like expo portal has turned into the autistic society for inbreeds in their moms basement fantasizing about how bad *** they are. Jumping jessus on a pogo stick. All I am asking is, if given a set amount of funds, when both products will eventually be bought, which should come first for a shake down trip on a new vehicle to figure out what all else it will need, or not need.

I get it. Ebay lights are cheap.
I get it, other parts are really important too.
I get it that your 1982 rust o bucket running chinese walmart whatever stops, turns and illuminates the first 5 feet in front of you. Congratulations.

Holy ****. Read the god damn first post. Lights or air? Not which lights or which air? or hey should I buy new tires or a radio or what not.

The sign up form for these groups should have a reading comprehension test you have to pass before you get admitted on.

I think you have misjudged the idea that you have any control over the responses you will get. So I take it you don't get what forums are all about. You started a discussion, not an interrogation. If you want binary answers, look at your poll and don't read.

This is not a witness stand, you don't come in here and say "Yes or No" only please. You entered a room full of people and started a discussion, now you are yelling in the middle of it saying shut up and listen to me and only say what I want you to say.

Every time I start a thread I get information I either already know, didn't ask for, or don't have any interest in. I usually either ignore it, or politely acknowledge it. On many occasions though, that unsolicited information has been extremely helpful and caused me to explore options I had not considered, so I'm more than happy to take the good with the bad.

If you know everything there is to know and have all these strong opinions on what you like and don't like, why are you here? You ask stupid questions you get stupid answers. If you don't know the differences between an air compressor and lights and the pros and cons of either, we are all already thinking you are pretty dense and might need some pointers on tangent topics as well.
 

fifty

Adventurer
You’re right and I’m wrong. I’m so sorry for offending you. Where should we all send checks to compensate you for your precious time.
 

Kevin108

Explorer
Dewalt, Ridgid (Home Depot's tool brand, not the Rigid lighting company), and other companies are making battery-powered pancake compressors now. You should look into them before going with the ARB.

For your LEDs, I'd keep shopping. Both options you presented seem overpriced.
 

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