Uberlandwerks Tacoma Build.

downhill

Adventurer
The XP-V2 suffers from the same problem that all hard sided campers pose with the Tacoma. No where on their website do they tell you what the weights of these campers are. They do show pictures of the V2 mounted on a Tacoma, which blows my mind. A search turned up numbers around 1,600# dry. That puts you 500 over the load rating for the Tacoma before the driver gets into the seat. Realistically, down the road you would end up at least 1,250 pounds over the maximum GVW, and that is assuming no heavy upgrades to the truck like bumpers, skids, or a winch. Four Wheel campers have the same issues. Upgrades to suspension and other systems help a little, but no way can you make up that difference on a Tacoma. These are great units, but better suited to a GMC 2500 with Duramax. A more realistic option would be a Tacoma Habitat, in at around 350 pounds I believe.
 

downhill

Adventurer
I am really interested in the report back on the BP-51. I have not heard of anyone running it, but I would love a good fully adjustable option from OME. Do you know what the spring rate is, and do they have options for spring rate?
 

Ben Steiner

Adventurer
a10.jpg a11.jpg

a12.jpg The factory setting is at 20mm, Ill give it a go and report back. a13.jpg

a14.jpg a15.jpg

Here is the relocation bracket for the long travel bottom shock mount in the rear. a16.jpg a17.jpg

a18.jpg a19.jpg The mounting nut requires you to drill through the mount to help secure the relocation bracket.
 

Ben Steiner

Adventurer
The two piece yellow clips hold the rock guard in place, Not super fond of it but well see how it hold up. a20.jpg a21.jpg

a22.jpg a23.jpg

a24.jpg Driver side reservoir located to the front of the shock, Passenger reservoir mounts towards the rear of the shock a25.jpg

a26.jpg a27.jpg

a28.jpg Out with the old... a29.jpg
 

downhill

Adventurer
Most coilvers have the body threaded 8 TPI. This looks like 16 TPI. Not sure why they would do this. One word of caution though. It appears they have used the same pinchbolt locked adjuster collar that other manufacturers have gone to. These things are trouble. I tossed mine and replaced it with a solid collar. I don't know where you would find a solid 16 TPI replacement though.

Here is the issue. When you loosen the pinchbolt, the collar is able to spread. The farther it spreads, the less thread engagement you have. Many people have stripped out their shock bodies because they didn't know, and loosened that collar too far. It is very difficult to tell how much is enough and how much is too much. There is a lot of pressure on that collar. On a 16 TPI body, the problem is even more critical because the depth of the threads is far less. Most of the manufacturers try to get around this by telling you not to make adjustments under load. This is total bull****. It's just their way of side stepping a warranty claim when their BS design fails. There was never an issue with loaded adjustment with a solid collar and lock ring, but some genius figured out they could save $2.75 by using one split ring with a pinch bolt. The only way to adjust these things according to their rules is to remove the unit and use spring compressors. Totally impractical.

Bottom line is, you can adjust these on the truck, but you must be very careful about just barely loosening that bolt! I would jack the truck up and decompress the spring as much as possible. Use a lot of lubricant. The penetrating types with teflon seem to work the best, like Break Free.

I'm just bringing this up because I'd hate to see you trash those coilovers
 

Ben Steiner

Adventurer
Most coilvers have the body threaded 8 TPI. This looks like 16 TPI. Not sure why they would do this. One word of caution though. It appears they have used the same pinchbolt locked adjuster collar that other manufacturers have gone to. These things are trouble. I tossed mine and replaced it with a solid collar. I don't know where you would find a solid 16 TPI replacement though.

Here is the issue. When you loosen the pinchbolt, the collar is able to spread. The farther it spreads, the less thread engagement you have. Many people have stripped out their shock bodies because they didn't know, and loosened that collar too far. It is very difficult to tell how much is enough and how much is too much. There is a lot of pressure on that collar. On a 16 TPI body, the problem is even more critical because the depth of the threads is far less. Most of the manufacturers try to get around this by telling you not to make adjustments under load. This is total bull****. It's just their way of side stepping a warranty claim when their BS design fails. There was never an issue with loaded adjustment with a solid collar and lock ring, but some genius figured out they could save $2.75 by using one split ring with a pinch bolt. The only way to adjust these things according to their rules is to remove the unit and use spring compressors. Totally impractical.

Bottom line is, you can adjust these on the truck, but you must be very careful about just barely loosening that bolt! I would jack the truck up and decompress the spring as much as possible. Use a lot of lubricant. The penetrating types with teflon seem to work the best, like Break Free.

I'm just bringing this up because I'd hate to see you trash those coilovers

Thanks for the insight downhill, I do need to adjust them seeing as they are set to the max at this point. I will let you know how it goes.
 

chunko

Observer
Are the rock guards on the OME's plastic? Do you think they would fit other shocks like Icon's or Radflo's?
 

Ben Steiner

Adventurer
The front struts and adjustable springs come set at 20mm which is way to stout. I have a ARB front bumper with a Warn M800S and the struts still feel like they top out. The strut are proving to be a pain it but to adjust.
*** THEY ARE NOT ABLE TO BE ADJUST ON THE TRUCK!***
they need to be removed and a wall spring compressor is mandatory along with ARB special tool to compress them. Kinda disappointing but after there tuned in there should be no reason to mess with them.
 

Ben Steiner

Adventurer
Installing the Warn M800S winch in the ARB bumper. The winch will need to be reclocked and an ARB adapter plate for the fairlead to be able to mount flush and have the correct off set.
 

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